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Suggestions on Torque Converter?

It's an interesting question, will it be faster with a looser converter giving less RPM drop between shifts? The converter slipping will mean that some of the power is used to heat the oil instead of moving the car forward? Does it depend on what your torque curve looks like?

The converter will keep the RPM's within the power range between shifts rather than letting it drop below and forcing the motor to build power again (more stress on the converter, but less on the motor)

With all the converters I've installed for customers wanting to go fast, I've always received complaints about the tranny not shifting as hard as it used to with a stock converter or not being able to bark the tires on the 1-2 shift.

They'd all get pissy like they just wasted a ton of money :argue:

That is, until they look at their timeslip and notice the drop in ET :icon_thumright:
 
I concur with Dynamic Converters. Use the 9.5 street/strip...I used one for 10 years in my 71 440 Cuda. They lock up on the street so you don't build heat, and they launch good at the strip. Works with 391's--up to 456 in my usage. Can be used for the biggest hudraulics out there. Good manners on the street. I think they now run around 700.00?
 
I concur with Dynamic Converters. Use the 9.5 street/strip...I used one for 10 years in my 71 440 Cuda. They lock up on the street so you don't build heat, and they launch good at the strip. Works with 391's--up to 456 in my usage. Can be used for the biggest hudraulics out there. Good manners on the street. I think they now run around 700.00?

What stall speed do you have?
 
Don't let price be your only guide on selecting a high stall converter. From converters I've seen cut apart (all brands), the higher priced converters typically have better components inside to stand up to the abuse and horsepower the owner claims to have. Far too many times I've seen big dollars spent on making the horsepower and then owners cheap out on the converter. If you want, send me a p.m. along with your email address and I'll send you back the spec sheet used by the converter company I used to work for. This applies to anyone else that may want to order a high stall. More than happy to help anyone on the board. A properly applied high stall is a great investment, a poorly applied converter is a total waste of money. Most converters in the higher stall range are custom built for an application. Off the shelf units can be way off the mark.
On a side note, never guess at the horsepower or torque your engine is producing. Unless it's actually been on an engine dyno any information in that regard will likely be wrong. A pc dyno sheet isn't worth the paper its printed on.
High dollar converters will have triple bearings, anti-ballooning plates, may have a steel, not aluminum stator and these items add to the price. It's very hard to produce a converter that will perform great on the strip, and also at the same time be great on the street. High stalls are designed to slip until they reach their rated stall speed.
 
I actually placed an order for one already.....

I had narrowed it down to either FTI or Turbo Action

Mainly because my local speed shop deals with them directly and both companies are located in Florida, so if any issues should arise, I won't be waiting weeks on end for service.

Both offer free restalls, so it was a toss up, but I went with FTI because they're less than an hour away.

I figure that alone is worth the extra $50 bucks on top of the T/A converter.

Went with a 9.5" 4000

If I run into any cooling problems, I'll either replace my current cooler with a larger one or add a second cooler as I have a bunch of RV coolers laying around my shop.
 
I would look at 3600-4000 9.5 inch converter and really like PTC brand

Mike
 
My PTC built to the specs of my car and a 9.5 inch was I believe $450 shipped to my door...

FYI

Mike
 
My PTC built to the specs of my car and a 9.5 inch was I believe $450 shipped to my door...

FYI

Mike

Already spoke to PTC and they quoted me much higher with a $250 restall if needed.

I had narrowed it down to either Turbo Action or FTI (both of which offer free restalls)

Went with FTI cause they're less than an hour away

Should arrive sometime today at my speed shop if it isn't there already.
 
My Dynamic 9.5 converter for street/strip was rated at 4200 stall. Brake stalled at 3200--3400...The rating always appears to be higher and actuality is based on torque from each set up.
 
On sale this week $599.00 9 1/2" street / strip converter I just bought one for my car. I have a TCI 3000 thats coming out don't like it, slips way to muchYes! they want to know everything of what you have.
I concur with Dynamic Converters. Use the 9.5 street/strip...I used one for 10 years in my 71 440 Cuda. They lock up on the street so you don't build heat, and they launch good at the strip. Works with 391's--up to 456 in my usage. Can be used for the biggest hudraulics out there. Good manners on the street. I think they now run around 700.00?
 
I guess I should update this thread.

FTI 4k went in a couple weeks ago and the difference is night and day as far as performance goes :headbang:

There is some slippage around town, but nothing major.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ialNjB6sBAI

My biggest issue was tranny temps

The night of the install, my local car club had a street meet about 40 minutes away.

Still being untested, I took at chance and drove out there, seeing 190+ degrees on the highway and 185* around town (odd how worked out backwards)

Ran a few Mustangs, then had my arse handed to me by a modified GTR (left me like I was standing still!!)

Off and on while racing, I saw no higher than ~180* as I parked for a bit after each pass.

On the ride home on the highway, she saw 190+ again, so I knew it was time to address the cooling system.

Replaced the old cooler with a HUGE 45,000 BTU unit


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Then earlier today, I swapped out my old deep pan for an even deeper 5 quart cooling pan


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The results are staggering as I took her out for a 30 minute romp on this warm night and my gauge didn't move above the first mark (~120*)

I thought perhaps I may have goofed when installing the sensor in the new pan, so put her up on my lift, hit the pan with my temp gun from all positions and the highest reading I got was 117* :eek:

Pulled the dipstick, palmed the end of it and the fluid felt only slightly warm.

I'll report back after driving when the sun comes out (miserably hot weather we have here)
 
I have been more then happy with my 9.5 Dynamic converter. Its their street/strip converter and it works great. It drives like a normal converter on the street but flashes about 4200 at the track. Good enough for my 3700 lb 63 to pull a 1.50 sixty thru the full exh running pump and hitting 10.70's so far. I also drive it the 45 miles to the track. I have also used Turbo Action which was also a top notch converter. I hope yours works out good for you. Ron

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Give Kenny Ford a call at PTC in Muscle Shoals, Alabama. He is a Mopar Man and he will build you exactly what you need. He did for me. My build is almost just like yours. He built me a 9/12 inch and I have had it for 15 years now. It was freshend up earlier this year. I love it!
 
yep ptc is my choice too!!!! 1.44 sixty foots out of mine at 3800 lbs, 470 stroker with mod man intake dual 500 edelbrocks and edelbrock heads 600 lunati roller with 1.6 rockers
 
OMG Guys,,,, read the thread!!!!!! He already bought a converter........ Look at the pics above regarding his cooling solutions.......... AFTER THE CONVERTER SWAP.......
 
Call Dynamic Converter Frank Lupo has been building and racing Mopar fro many years. His 9.5 Anti Balooning converter 9.5 inch is 575.00 with a 3500 stall. They are Located in Delaware.
Really good people!
 
OMG Guys,,,, read the thread!!!!!! He already bought a converter........ Look at the pics above regarding his cooling solutions.......... AFTER THE CONVERTER SWAP.......


LOL

I thought for sure people would at least see the photos :icon_thumleft:


Anyhoo, earlier today I went out for a cruise to see how high the tranny temps would get in hot weather.

It was 93* with 51% humidity when I left the shop and I drove around for about an hour in traffic keeping my eyes glued to the gauge.

As I was sweating my balls off, every now and then I'd hammer it hard in 3rd gear from about a 40 roll to around 70 just to see if it would make any difference and this was the highest to gauge went.

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Got to the highway where I was pushing about 70-80mph cruising and the temps actually went up instead of down (weird), but only slightly...

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That's the highest I've seen the gauge go since installing the new pan and cooler :cool:

After 2 hours of cruising around and randomly beating the piss out of her, I went back to the shop and hit the inlet/outlet of the cooler with a temp gun...

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I honestly don't know which one is in or out as the cooling lines kinda get mixed up under the headers, but either way, I guess I'm good to go :)

Any particular reason why it's running slightly warmer on the highway at cruise?
 
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