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Suspension recommendations

Phil73Charger

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I have a 73 Charger.
I want to update my suspension but not sure what is best. QA1 does not support 1973 Charger, Magnum Force does but not sure I want to spend that much.
Can replacing torsion bar with sway bar make much difference? I am converting from stock 318 with stroker 440. What do I need to do for suspension? Are there coilover kits?
 
Upgrading/replacing torsion bars and springs will make a big difference. Especially if the springs rates of both go up. Sway bars to match plus at the minimum a set of Bilstein or Koni shocks to go with it. Since you have a 73, get a set of either solid metal or urethane k-frame isolators in the mix and see what's available to eliminate the isolators on the rear springs. Firm Feel[ old school, longtime Mopar guru's], BAC[ a sponsor here and a major Mopar dude], PST[ another site sponsor]. Add in some structural improvements, ie: frame connectors, torque boxes, from apron braces, lower tie bar stiffening[ USCT/US Car Tool]. What shape is the front suspension in? Need a re-do? Same sources mentioned. Replace the steering box with either a Borgeson[ get from BAC and nowhere else] unit or stage 2 stocker[ Firm Feel, Steer and Gear, Redhead] to improve the effort/feel. What shape are your brakes in? Good idea to improve there as whoa is just as important as go[ Dr Diff is a great spot for that]. Tires/wheels? Some of the brake improvements need a 15" or larger wheel to clear the rotors and calipers. These upgrades are better bang for your buck. Going to the coil over swaps require more effort, money and skills to do and the improvement return for you money spent may not be as good but people still like to do them. Pick your path and enjoy. This book from AR Engineering would be a great resource for your quest.
Mopar B-Body Performance Upgrades 1962-1979 | AR Engineering
 
Thanks for your information!
I will be updating brakes with 4 piston calipers and seriously looking at rack steering.
If it makes the car safer for my family to drive then it is worth the cost.
 
do yourself a favor and use this website's search function first. There are numerous threads sharing other's opinions. It will help you make the best informed decision. That how I started my suspension upgrade journey.

To answer one of your original questions: Sway bars don't replace torsion bars. Do install sway bars if you don't have them arleady. THey make a big difference. I think you may have meant to ask if it's worth it to replace torsion bars with coil overs. No. Don't do it. Some have, but most agree that the mopar torsion bar front suspension works really well. What you can do is increase the torsion bar size from the stock .088" or .092" to 1.00" or 1.03". If it were me, first I would do shocks (Tuned Bilstein) then add sway bars and see how you like it. You can always add more goodies later.
 
do yourself a favor and use this website's search function first. There are numerous threads sharing other's opinions. It will help you make the best informed decision. That how I started my suspension upgrade journey.

To answer one of your original questions: Sway bars don't replace torsion bars. Do install sway bars if you don't have them arleady. THey make a big difference. I think you may have meant to ask if it's worth it to replace torsion bars with coil overs. No. Don't do it. Some have, but most agree that the mopar torsion bar front suspension works really well. What you can do is increase the torsion bar size from the stock .088" or .092" to 1.00" or 1.03". If it were me, first I would do shocks (Tuned Bilstein) then add sway bars and see how you like it. You can always add more goodies later.
That is very helpful. What about conversion to rack pinion steering?
 
I believe the only conversion thats out there is from Unisteer. Has a reputation for geometry issues on the steering. Not good. If you are after a faster ratio and/or better feel at the steering wheel, you can either go with the Borgeson unit which has a faster ratio than stock. It's smaller and lighter too. If you want to stay with the oe box, Firm Feel, Steer and Gear and Red Head have improved units with a heavier effort. These would also be your go to for a properly rebuilt box, not just one with a fresh coat of paint and a seal or two replaced. There are fast ratio Pittman and idler arms available for the oe box.
 
I have a 73 Charger.
I want to update my suspension but not sure what is best. QA1 does not support 1973 Charger, Magnum Force does but not sure I want to spend that much.
Can replacing torsion bar with sway bar make much difference? I am converting from stock 318 with stroker 440. What do I need to do for suspension? Are there coilover kits?
The single biggest aspect of car's handling performance is it's tires and by implication the wheels they need. Start there.
Remember, brakes stop the wheels, tires stop the car.
All the other suggestions are worthy in due time and will help the tires achieve their limits.
The fact you are even asking about coilovers means you needn't bother with them. There are plenty of existing threads here that detail that aspect already from all angles.
 
My opinion- the car with properly working stock components in good working order is perfectly "safe for your family".

If you are looking for performance improvements, that's another story.

First question- does your car already have a front sway bar?
WP and WH came with them but WL did not as standard.
WP (Charger SE) should also have a rear sway bar.

Note that replacing the ISO rubbers will stiffen the ride but will not increase safety.
Replacing the rubber bushings with poly-graphite will increase life of the part and off another mild improvement in stiffness, but again, not increase safety.

What condition is your steering "rag joint" in?
That is a common point of deterioration and cause for sloppy steering.
Also a one year only part.

There are horror stories of failed and "not what I expected" brake upgrades on this board.
IMO- get the factory system working well (which is far easier to do) and then decide if it is adequate.

Again, IMO- start with the easy and most efficient things.
I would personally start with a good quality shock- IE the Bilstiens mentioned above, after getting any areas that need attention back to factory spec.

Also agree on tires, possibly the one area where an easy upgrade from what it came with from the factory is in order. A modern radial with modern traction, temp and wear specs, possibly in a slightly wider profile is the way to go here.
 
As mentioned above in message #7 tires are critical when it comes to handling. That would be the first place I would look when trying to improve handling. Sadly, there isn't much of a selection of good handling tires available in the stock rim sizes. I wound up having to switch to 18" rims to allow me to get the tires I wanted. Some people don't like the look of the larger rims, but I am pretty happy with it and it allowed me to get the Michelin Pilot Sport 4s tires I wanted in the widths I wanted.

My above statement assumes that your stock suspension is in good shape, bushings not worn, ball joints and tie rod ends not worn, steering box not sloppy, etc. From there, I would look at adding anti roll bars (also called sway bars) and better dampers (shock absorbers). I went with Firm Feel for the anti roll bars and Bilstein for dampers on my 1969 Coronet. Since my original steering box had poor feel and quite a bit of slop (and leaked like a sieve), I replaced it using a Borgeson box purchased through Bergman Auto Craft along with their steering coupler. This box provides a very nice steering feel and almost no play (at least I can't feel any) in the steering. I also increased the size of my torsion bars (Firm Feel) to 1.00" which I feel is plenty for a street car. If you have anti roll bars, the torsion bars don't need to be that large, as the anti roll bars will deal with body roll and the torsion bars just need to be stiff enough to keep your suspension from bottoming out when you are driving. Hope this helps you in your planning, Cheers!
 
First question- does your car already have a front sway bar?
WP and WH came with them but WL did not as standard.
WP (Charger SE) should also have a rear sway bar.
To clarify for future searchers... WH Chargers may have all had front sway bars, WH Coronets (like my '71) didn't.

As for your questions OP... pretty well covered above. Only thing I would add is I'm currently redoing the suspension and brakes on my '71 Coronet. I ran a whole bunch of numbers, with a bunch of different options on the brakes and the best brake torque, was the OEM 11.75" front discs from the later FMJ chassis cars. Several vendors supply kits using those components. And yes... I ran numbers on everything up to the Wilwood 14" kit with 4 piston calipers and the OEM setup gave the best brake torque. For track usage, the extra diameter makes a difference due to better heat shedding (larger mass/surface area). For the street, simply not necessary. Before anyone chimes in, yes... I realize there can be other advantages to multi-piston calipers, but again, those are mostly not at issue on a street car.

If anyone wants to run those numbers for themselves, here's a useful website, you'll need some basic data about your car but it's not terribly difficult to use. JL's Brake Calculator

Also... at least 15" tires, of the high-performance variety, and don't pinch wide tires with a narrow rim.
 
Going up one size in diameter on the front sway bar, is another relatively low cost, low effort mod that will noticeably increase handling performance.

I'd definitely do that before swapping torsion bars.

If the OP's car doesn't have a rear bar, one can be sourced from 73 all the way to 79.
Almost all 75-79 Cordobas had one as well as Magnums, Chargers and the Fury although low line Fury is probably the least likely to have one.
75-79 rear bars will also have the ISO shock plates that are a direct swap to the 73.

EDIT- Front bars are sized for the engine that came in the car as well as if the car was a performance model.

A car that came with a 340 will have a slightly larger bar.
A car that came with a big block- larger still.

These can be found used.
New ones are not terribly expensive and are easy to find.
New ones are also available in diameters not available from the factory.
 
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Added info to my post above.
 
Old thread but I just wanted to revive it. I have a 71 chally that was converted to a unisteer rack & pinion when I bought it. Dont do it. It’s so horrible I’m reverting it back to a borgeson and bought the entire steering parts from pst: fast ratio steering, torsion bars, lca rebuild kit.

The damn front tires toes in on first gear and toes out on reverse gear. That unisteer throws off the entire geometry.

also did the entire USC stiffening kit except the wheel tub.
 
Old thread but I just wanted to revive it. I have a 71 chally that was converted to a unisteer rack & pinion when I bought it. Dont do it. It’s so horrible I’m reverting it back to a borgeson and bought the entire steering parts from pst: fast ratio steering, torsion bars, lca rebuild kit.

The damn front tires toes in on first gear and toes out on reverse gear. That unisteer throws off the entire geometry.

also did the entire USC stiffening kit except the wheel tub.
sombrero
First, Welcome to the site!! Sorry to hear you had to endure Unisteer first hand...You should probably go post an introduction in the "New Members" forum... From your first post it sounds like you've seen the reality of a lot of the kind of aftermarket "Support" Mopars get..
 
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Aerodynamics make this one begin to be less safe above about 100 MPH. Bilstein, Firm Feel, USCartool subframe connectors, Cooper Cobras, 11” Drum brakes all corners gone through, tubular UCA’s. Don’t get carried away.

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sombrero
First, Welcome to the site!! Sorry to hear you had to esurience Unisteer first hand...You should probably go post an introduction in the "New Members" forum... From your first post it sounds like you've seen the reality of a lot of the kind of aftermarket "Support" Mopars get..
Thank you Wild! Yes I'll go head on to it. I was doing my own search from Google and this thread pops up. I got so triggered I had to share! hahaha
 
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