Swapping a tilt steering column into a 1970 Charger

[pnora]

I didn’t think of that about the hood turn signals. Great point.

Thats a given as they are tied into the front signals. Nothing to think about there.

 

[Kern Dog]

Ha...that further reveals my lack of understanding of electrical systems and diagrams.
I'm trying though...

 

[Kern Dog]

Tuesday I went to a local junkyard to look at a 1980 Cordoba. I was hoping that it had a tilt column to grab or scavenge for parts.
It did have a tilt column but it was just different enough to be just as weird as this one. I wanted to grab more of the wiring further back to the bulkhead but a lot of things were different.
Today it occurred to me that I might have luck by looking up a wire diagram for a mid 70s Monte Carlo or other GM car. These columns are mostly GM inspired so that would show me what the wires are for on the column itself. I could probably figure it from there.

 

[pnora]

Tuesday I went to a local junkyard to look at a 1980 Cordoba. I was hoping that it had a tilt column to grab or scavenge for parts.
It did have a tilt column but it was just different enough to be just as weird as this one. I wanted to grab more of the wiring further back to the bulkhead but a lot of things were different.
Today it occurred to me that I might have luck by looking up a wire diagram for a mid 70s Monte Carlo or other GM car. These columns are mostly GM inspired so that would show me what the wires are for on the column itself. I could probably figure it from there.

On post 7 that diagram I posted will tell you most if all the functions of each wire.

 

[Kern Dog]

Here is a 73 wiring and it will be very close. You can use this to start sorting and tagging wires.

View attachment 1819198

On post 7 that diagram I posted will tell you most if all the functions of each wire.

I think you’re right. When I first looked at it I missed the part in it with the turn signal switch. Thank you. I need to email that to the wife so she can print it out. Looking at it on the phone is difficult.

 

[pnora]

I think you’re right. When I first looked at it I missed the part in it with the turn signal switch. Thank you.

If you lay your switch ends on a table and clamp them down so they dont move helps. Then determine which way the diagrams plug would fit with yours. They will only plug one way and the locking tab will dictate the way it fits. One side has more pins than the other using the lock tab as reference. Then just take one wire at a time and follow it through. Note or tag each one with a tag or tape.

 

[Kern Dog]

In the ongoing saga....
I have two of these columns, a blue one and black one. The blue one is mostly complete but has a break on the plastic hub for the horn wire. It has an intact ignition switch lever rod, switch, some of the wiring and the turn signal wiring.

I rummaged through the stash and found some stuff I can use to make jumper pigtails.

The red/black/brown/blue/yellow wire group is the ignition switch. I found a plug to use on the end so I will cut the terminals off and solder the connector on.
These ought to allow me to tap into the stock wiring.
The other column that I have is functionally identical. It is missing the ignition switch push rod, the switch itself and the ignition wiring but it has a good plastic horn wire hub. Both columns have no key so I practiced on the black column to remove the ignition lock cylinder.

 

[Kern Dog]

Have you ever replaced an ignition lock cylinder in a 1970+ Mopar? It isn't hard but you do have to do a bit of disassembly to reach it.
These GM based columns are worse!

The circular steering lock plate is spring loaded and held in place with a lock ring that can only be removed by compressing the lock plate toward the firewall. I made this small bracket:

With the steering wheel nut in place and turned....

Now the groove is exposed and the lock ring can be pried out.
Remove the nut, the tool and the lock plate comes right off with the lock ring.

The design of the parts are different from Mopar stuff but the function is the same.

Turn signal switch mechanism comes out, the flasher button is retained by a Phillips head screw, Mopar unit just slides out with the turn signal harness.
The ignition lock cylinder is retained by a slot in the column housing:

Screwdriver points to the thin shank that pops into that slot.

The cylinder slides out from there like the Mopars do.

I ordered a new cylinder from the local NAPA store, $21. Monday I'll take it to a locksmith to see if he can fix it to match the original key in the car...

 

[70ChargerRT]

Pretty cool project. If you were one of the guys getting the hissing sound from a Borgeson box I’d say that rag joint would completely eliminate it. I’m pretty lucky that I find the stock location of the steering wheel is about perfect for me but my 8 way, dual lumbar power seats definitely help with that.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

Greg, once again - great photos and explanations. Thanks for taking the time to document this for others to reference.

 

[stillrunners]

Yes thanks - great to follow along !

 

[Kern Dog]

I was able to take the new ignition lock cylinder to my Locksmith today. The man said that these GM/Saginaw versions cannot be changed like the Mopar ones. The GM stuff is sealed and while they could be cut open and modified, putting them back together could be a problem.
Now I have a couple of choices.
I could run a key for the ignition, one for the doors and the trunk key OR....Have the door locks modified to match this new ignition key.
I'm not sure what I'll do yet.
Otherwise, this project got put on hold for a few days while I built some shelves in the shop out back....

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

I was able to take the new ignition lock cylinder to my Locksmith today. The man said that these GM/Saginaw versions cannot be changed like the Mopar ones. The GM stuff is sealed and while they could be cut open and modified, putting them back together could be a problem.
Now I have a couple of choices.
I could run a ket for the ignition, one for the doors and the trunk key OR....Have the door locks modified to match this new ignition key.
I'm not sure what I'll do yet.
Otherwise, this project got put on hold for a few days while I built some shelves in the shop out back....

View attachment 1826179

View attachment 1826180

View attachment 1826181



View attachment 1826183more

more shelves? You keep finding good stuff and running out of room...
That last photo - show us a wider field of view. Is that the same wall as the top photos? Did you have to remove pictures off the wall?
I dig the first few photos where you can see the 2 classic mopars through the sliding glass.

 

[Dennis H]

Fling is coming. Make sure it’s not apart.

 

[Kern Dog]

Finally some real progress. You know how sometimes you start a project and get distracted?
Yeah, it happens to all of us.
Back to it though….
I’m still in the mock up and test portion. Looking at a wire diagram posted by a helpful member here…

Lucky the ignition switch wiring has color coded wires that match up.

Blue to blue, red to red, etc. The column wiring does have a 12ga pink wire w/ black tracer and an 18 ga black wire coming off the black plastic plug.
Who knows where they go….

There is also a 12 ga black wire that I’m assuming is for Acc power.
I laid the column in a test mule car…

Be nice…. This Duster is another work in progress!

The stock ignition plug was unplugged…

…..and she fired up! I don’t know if the Acc works since the Duster has no radio and the wiper motor isn’t installed. Onto the turn signal wiring.

You can see that the wires change colors on each side of the connection. I trusted this diagram…

And labeled everything…

The wires are marked the same as the diagram states. The butt/crimp connectors are for mock up and testing only.

Like the ignition wiring, these are ran to a factory plug for easy installation.
Now I need to test the whole thing. Turn signals, flashers and horn along with start/run and accessories.
Stay tuned…

 

[Kern Dog]

The ignition lock was popped in and tested for operation. It moves just fine for the most part but a few times, the lock wouldn't turn....as if the key were not inserted deep enough. I spritzed some PB Blaster in the lock and it seems to work fine now.

I reinstalled the turn signal switch. The tilt lever was cleaned up. The turn signal lever has Cruise Control functions on it which the car will not have. If I had another lever, one that was more plain, I'd use it.

Part of being a parts hoarder is the possibility that when you're doing a project, you end up having some obscure parts needed to complete it.

I found some bits and pieces to mount an aftermarket steering wheel to the column. I may have to use a few pieces from my existing column to complete this swap. The column still needs to be painted too.
The firewall plate will need work to match the 1970 B body pattern. Maybe I could slide the one off my original column? If not, I'll weld tabs on the plate already on this column.

 

[6872n73]

"I found some bits and pieces to mount an aftermarket steering wheel to the column"

Were those Mopar parts or GM parts?

 

[Kern Dog]

They are aftermarket parts. The curved cover, the triangle shaped hub/base for the wheel with the splined center, the hardware...

 

[Kern Dog]

Backing up a bit….
This adapter was in the shed out back.

It is splined with the same diameter as my column.

It seems like it will work.

That black cover needed a little file work to clear the horn tube.
It fits neat.
The other end….
The lower shaft was removed.

It will need to be shortened. First though, the rag joint and mount have to come off to get the firewall plate off. Cotter key….

Then a roll pin…

More to come.

 

[Kern Dog]

The roll pin held that bracket in place like the roll pin in our traditional pot coupler.

Now the firewall plate can come off.

I could either use the plate from my original column or modify this plate. I’m not sure which way that I will go.