Switched from wanting a 4 link to Caltracs in the course of this thread.But sliders or shackles?

[biomedtechguy]

You own a V code car (you know the significance as you reference that aspect of the car regularly) As such, there is some responsibility to not clown it up.

Absolutely true. It is the real deal, and has all the VIN stampings where they belong. It is not a numbers matching drivetrain, but that's fine with me, because I probably couldn't have bought it if it was, and that would prevent even ME from modding or racing it with the original engine in it.
Now what counts as "clowning it up" is where we may depart. You may not like my interior seats and console, but I think it's perfect.
Let me scorch your retinas with a couple of pix...

Throwing every whiz bang aftermarket gadget at it with zero coherent theme or direction is wacky, expensive and likely will result in a poorly coordinated car.

I have a theme. Restomod/Pro-touring with a 1320 slant. "Boulevard Bruiser" is another term that comes to mind...
My goals are better handling, better traction, quicker 1320 times, no problem cruising around. The Dakota Digital gauges are going to let me see my dash at night, know how fast I'm going with the 5 speed and 4.10 gears, and a few other things that the factory gauges could never tell me. Looks damn close to the factory gauges though.

Mini tubbing that car would be a really bad idea

I sincerely would like you and anyone else who feels that way to make the case. I may agree if someone makes a strong argument against mini tubing. I am doing pretty well with what I've manged to squeeze in the stock fenderwells.

My apologies, if you find this criticism harsh or insulting.

I did. Thanks for the reply.

 

[Mike Gaines]

If you want the really wide rear tires then you gotta tub the car to make room.
Then....my suggestion is to NOT go with a 4-link. I think the idea of a 4 link is really cool but without tons of track time you will probably never get it working right.
I very recently had a 4-link 1965 Belvedere and now I have ladder bar 1964 Belvedere (both are Chris Alston setups).
I would ONLY go with a Ladder Bar setup for your application as you are not going for every single 1/100th of a second in ET that 4-links can provide. You just want a good solid rear end setup for wide tires. Double Adjustable Ladder Bars with SINGLE ADJUSTABLE SHOCKS are the way to go....Double Adjustable shocks are great but the incoming advice that I always have received is Double Adjustable Shocks are not necessary for ET's lower than 9.50 or so.
I would go with the JEGS brand of complete Ladder Bar setups as they are actually manufactured by the same NAME BRAND companies but sold under the JEGS name to they can market them at a lower price...ask them directly that question and I think they will confirm it.
(Pictured is my current 1964 Hemi Belvedere with Chris Alston Backhalf ladder bar setup with 15x32x14.5W Hoosier Slicks on 15x14 Weld Wheels.)

 

[biomedtechguy]

If you want the really wide rear tires then you gotta tub the car to make room.
Then....my suggestion is to NOT go with a 4-link. I think the idea of a 4 link is really cool but without tons of track time you will probably never get it working right.
I very recently had a 4-link 1965 Belvedere and now I have ladder bar 1964 Belvedere (both are Chris Alston setups).
I would ONLY go with a Ladder Bar setup for your application as you are not going for every single 1/100th of a second in ET that 4-links can provide. You just want a good solid rear end setup for wide tires. Double Adjustable Ladder Bars with SINGLE ADJUSTABLE SHOCKS are the way to go....Double Adjustable shocks are great but the incoming advice that I always have received is Double Adjustable Shocks are not necessary for ET's lower than 9.50 or so.
I would go with the JEGS brand of complete Ladder Bar setups as they are actually manufactured by the same NAME BRAND companies but sold under the JEGS name to they can market them at a lower price...ask them directly that question and I think they will confirm it.
(Pictured is my current 1964 Hemi Belvedere with Chris Alston Backhalf ladder bar setup with 15x32x14.5W Hoosier Slicks on 15x14 Weld Wheels.)

advice from Mike Gaines
I just got off the phone with John at Calvert.
Mike, please check your inbox. I want to talk to you please and I'm driving.

 

[Ceedawg]

IMO I would not go the ladder bar route for the street, very rarely on a flat surface (back right tire goes in a depression the the left front comes off the ground) Chrysler’s for many years went around “corners” very fast with springs and torsion bars (NASCAR). The more narrow the pivot points get in the back for wide tires the bigger the sway bar up front is needed (body roll). A friend put those MT 17/33 on a 64 Plym, when he went around a corner we thought it was gonna capsize. Lol

 

[biomedtechguy]

the bigger the sway bar up front is needed

Here's what I have:
Sway Bar, Front, Hollow, 4130 Chromoly, Black Powdercoated, 1 1/4 in. Diameter

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/QA1-52860

 

[Ceedawg]

Here's what I have:
Sway Bar, Front, Hollow, 4130 Chromoly, Black Powdercoated, 1 1/4 in. Diameter
View attachment 865831
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/QA1-52860

That looks big enough!

 

[biomedtechguy]

That looks big enough!

It was part of my complete front suspension system I bought from Summit. All QA1 including the tubular K-member except for the UCAs. I wanted maximum adjustability, so I got these:

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

I don’t get what your doing, it seems like an exercise in spending money for no specific end goal but to decrease the value of a real six pack car. I like to modify cars, but I certainly have my limits as to what I would do to a real pedigree car. And no matter how much money you spend, someone in a new challenger, mustang, Camaro, or just about any new performance car is gonna out corner, out stop, and just plain out perform you with any mods. Part of the deal. If you want to beat someone in a 1/4 mile focus on that. On these old cars without On board computers you have to pick a direction of some sort and focus on that. If you continue down the road of I want to do everything your gonna still have a 12 sec car when your done. It may have 10 sec power but it’ll never make use of it. I’ve seen it before. Meanwhile someone with some old leaf springs that spent a fraction of the money is gonna mop your *** at the track while your left scratching your head.

Apparently from the other posts I’ve just read in this thread I’m not the only one that thinks that way. That should tell you something that everyone is confused by the parts and many directions you are going. It’s not a recipe for success.

 

[biomedtechguy]

I'd like to hear more from Mike Gaines. I'm hoping to get a phone call from him.
After talking with John (not J. Calvert) at Calvert I am thinking that CalTracks, that is fully reversible, will get me all I need.
So depending on what Mike Gaines and I discuss, I've changed my mind, again.
Those who are admonishing me have swayed me away from a triangulated rear suspension that requires welding.

 

[Hemirunner]

Here's what I have:
Sway Bar, Front, Hollow, 4130 Chromoly, Black Powdercoated, 1 1/4 in. Diameter
View attachment 865831
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/QA1-52860

Typically, these types of bars are not conducive to weight transfer needed in quarter mile performance as they’re held in rubber or polyurethane bushings that don’t allow it to rotate. Ladder bars are a nightmare on the street as they don’t rotate around the car centerline axis when traversing uneven ground. Pro-touring is great, but a lot of the trends don’t lend themselves to great drag racing performance and none of them are popular among the resto crowd. This could explain some of the replies you’re getting. Your best all around option here is the Cal-tracs and split monos. The triangulated 4 link would be the second best option but does affect resale and you mentioned that as a concern.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Typically, these types of bars are not conducive to weight transfer needed in quarter mile performance as they’re held in rubber or polyurethane bushings that don’t allow it to rotate. Ladder bars are a nightmare on the street as they don’t rotate around the car centerline axis when traversing uneven ground. Pro-touring is great, but a lot of the trends don’t lend themselves to great drag racing performance and none of them are popular among the resto crowd. This could explain some of the replies you’re getting. Your best all around option here is the Cal-tracs and split monos. The triangulated 4 link would be the second best option but does affect resale and you mentioned that as a concern.

Look who agrees with you:

I appreciate the detailed explanation. It helps.
@Mike Gaines check your PM inbox please!
I still want to talk with Mike Gaines.
I plan on disconnecting the front sway bar at the drag strip.
I am leaning toward the CalTracks setup.
I am looking for a HUGE improvement in my launch traction and 1320 performance, and a decent ride on the highway and around town, especially up and down the Mississippi Gulf Coast Beach Blvd where I put as many miles on my car in a week as I do the rest of the year. My current rear suspension leaves a LOT to be desired, so a HUGE improvement is not hard to achieve.
I AM NOT INTERESTED IN "CORNER CARVING" but I think between the new front suspension and replacing what I suspect are very weak, worn rear leaf springs (because I bent the crap out of the very heavy duty, top of the line Mancini pinion snubber in only 2 runs) I will experience a much better overall ride.
So the CalTracks gives me all of the 1320 improvements I want or need, doesn't kill the driving experience on the highway or cruising around, costs about $1,130 for EVERYTHING, and is fully reversible, AND is simple enough that I should be able to dial it in and actually enjoy the benefits of the investment!
Right??

 

[65hemi]

I "think" I understand where you are heading, so i'll offer my experience. My Cuda is a restomod with a 1320 slant. Body, etc. restored but with a hot rod drivetrain. I moved the springs in with offset shackles to get tire clearance; no cutting involved. Rear suspension is HD springs, locally made caltracs, and QA1 adjustable shocks. Front suspension is stock style with poly bushings. The car handles great on the street, but not a curve carver, and hooks great.

 

[bearman]

Bio, the money you save in the suspension you can put to the new fitech 3x2 system.

 

[biomedtechguy]

I moved the springs in to get tire clearance.

YES! and yes to the rest, except the QA1 K-member and front suspension I'm installing, and CalTracks complete setup including the split mono leafsprings.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Bio, the money you save in the suspension you can put to the new fitech 3x2 system.

That FiTech 3x2 system, as nice as it is, would leave me short of my power goals, or right at the tippy top.
I'm going to use my Promax modded Holley carbs anyway, and if Holley doesn't go into production with the 3x2 EFI system they have a patent for, and it doesn't cover over 600 HP, AND I decide to go EFI, F&B has me covered.

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

Ive had real good luck with my caltracs once I figured them out. Pinion Angle and front end travel are huge for success. They street drive fine also if you loosen the bars up.

 

[biomedtechguy]

 

[biomedtechguy]

Here we go! This is what I envision once I have my stroker motor done. In the meantime, I can actually go back to the dragstrip again, which I gave up on because of my shitty front suspension and total lack of traction unless I rolled off the starting line and then stood on it.

 

[biomedtechguy]

These sliders look like they should be "a given" in a setup like the Caltracs, which is what he's using.
Info on the sliders??

 

[1967coronet440]

If you took those thin sidewall tires off and put some 15’s with slicks id almost guarantee majority of your traction problems would disappear. I know they’re called drag radials but they’ll never hook at the strip. Rolling start on the street they’re probably fine.