Taking a big step…. I hope.

[LemonWedge]

Simply posting to share the latest investments in the LemonWedge program.

After not winning a race for (2) years running now, I’ve realized that to compete in today’s bracket racing world, I must evolve. I’ve been competitive, but at the same time it’s become evident that the gap between the some of the best in my region and myself was beginning to widen.
Two things have stood out: (1) The car has not been as consistent with the new motor that it was with the 451. And (2) my foot-brake reaction times that I once was supremely confident with have increasingly become an Achilles heel in my program.

My belief is that the 1st item revolves around the converter. It was built specifically around the 451 specs. Most of the consistency issues I’m experiencing show up in 60ft. My MPH at both the 1/8 & 1/4 are still very consistent, typically within half of a MPH at most; while at the same time the ET’s to those marks have become increasingly volatile. So in attempt to fix this issue I’m sending my Dynamic 9-1/2” converter back to Lupo for a full re-do tailored to the new 470. Hopefully this not only makes the car more consistent, but it should be quicker as well.

To address the 2nd concern, I’ve invested in a transbrake valvebody from John Cope, and a Cramsey Innovations Overthrow brake button. I’ve been fairly successful riding the 1967 Plymouth brake pedal at the floor of the car. But hopefully I can dial in a consistent routine and realize some improvement with this setup that can translate to a measurable difference in the results I’ve been seeing.

Just sharing…, Feel free to chime in with comments, questions, or suggestions.

 

[snakeoil24]

Impressive!!

 

[padam]

Sounds like a good plan.

I will say that the No Box racers around here seem to have it down to a science.

 

[67MPRFAN]

My experience with a T-brake was my car became more consistent, but Reaction times were all over the place, learning curve on which bulb to let go of the button. Just a side nite my button was mounted on the steering wheel, so installed a 2nd to push when backing up.

I dropped off a transmission today, I really want a brake in it but I still want to ocassionaly drive on the street

 

[BSB67]

Good luck.

 

[LemonWedge]

My experience with a T-brake was my car became more consistent, but Reaction times were all over the place, learning curve on which bulb to let go of the button. Just a side nite my button was mounted on the steering wheel, so installed a 2nd to push when backing up.

I dropped off a transmission today, I really want a brake in it but I still want to ocassionaly drive on the street

Seems to me that you could wire a rocker switch to activate reverse. Would be a lot easier than holding a button when backing up.

I’m Thinking that the button will be mounted to the dash on a “stand-off” mount to the right of the steering wheel, at approx. the same depth as the wheel. This button I’ve got offers as much as .060 delay. There will be a learning curve I’m sure, but I’ve got to believe that one can be more consistent and more accurate using the dexterity of their fingers over the muscles in their legs.

 

[dvw]

I run against trans brakes cars all the time. The one thing that would help using a brake is a set starting line rpm. But to be honest I've been fairly successful off the foot brake. Controlling the stripe is what separates the winners from the losers.
Doug

 

[Curiousyellow71]

What rear suspension?
Lots of guys hook reverse safety switch to activate the brake to back up.
Are you racing a no box class..I always left off the top bulb w a brake w a box. Footbrake was bottom bulb and it helped w lots of practice on a practice tree.

 

[Budnicks]

Transbrake should help consistency it did in all my cars
I had to actually slow myself down,
I was redlighting on 0.4 tenths pro-trees way to often
after I went to a Transbrake valvebody, started leaving on the flash of yella'
was in the low teens from then on, usually left 1st, can't play catch up
that's how you lose or break out in brackets
& what stuff I was running you better leave 1st,
most was run what you got on 'a national index' Comp Eliminator
& then be able manage the finish line to be able to win,
not on the brakes like some classes
I did it all with a mechanical throttle stop/s too
The converter is key, it needs to be set up for using a Trans-Brake
most mine were 5,400-6,000 stall, hits the tire hard
rear suspension & shocks dbl adj. at min. will certainly play a big difference too

get a quality button too
not some cheap hardware store momentary button

I hated (still do) 0.5 tenths sportsman tree,
way too many redlights, I was used to 0.4 tenths pro-trees
I reacted way to fast, but a delay box cured that...
I hated having to even run a delay box... drivers aides

Most all of the cars, mechanical Fuel Injected too,
Enderle Hats, Crower, Pete Jackson, Hilborn
usually on methanol too, unless rules specified otherwise

My T/S car 6.69 @ 217 with in tenths/hundredths on either number
with a converter & a Transbrake was really consistent, deadly

my 23T Altered 6.90 @ 190 was killer on both ends, BBC or Hemi
deadly consistant

my 8.50 Pro-gas car (could run 7.80s @ 188+) was deadly on the lights,
albeit a Powerglide

so was the Glides in Super Street 10.90 71 442 w/300 455,
Super Gas 9.90 all iron 468cid BBC Vega, in the late 70s
& Super Comp 8.90 71 Camaro 321cid Donovan 10,000 rpm screamer, mid 80s
later 7.90 Super Eliminator class, with both the altered/s 23 & 27 Ts mid to later 80s

most I later ran Lenco's or Jeffco's 3-4 or 5 speeds, Crower Slipper clutches,
later 80s into the 90s, a whole different animal,
you can get a Bruno-Drive 'use a converter' in-front of them too
deadly consistent, & expensive

7.90 Super Eliminator (could run 6.90)

89 IROC T/S or California Outlaw Pro-stock 6.69 @ 217 best

87 TransAm Outlaw P/S

87 TransAm N2O T/S car

49 Ford Pro-Gas & quickest street car in America Super Chevy Sunday events

71 Camaro 321cid Donovan 770hp

71 Olds 442 W-30 455

23 T Altered 8.90 Super Comp

 

[LemonWedge]

I run against trans brakes cars all the time. The one thing that would help using a brake is a set starting line rpm. But to be honest I've been fairly successful off the foot brake. Controlling the stripe is what separates the winners from the losers.
Doug

I’ve been fairly successful as well, Doug. But I’m watching the competition build better and better machines for accomplishing the task. I’ll always believe that a footbrake approach can be competitive. But that doesn’t mean it’s not at a disadvantage.

 

[LemonWedge]

What rear suspension?
Lots of guys hook reverse safety switch to activate the brake to back up.
Are you racing a no box class..I always left off the top bulb w a brake w a box. Footbrake was bottom bulb and it helped w lots of practice on a practice tree.

Suspension is all Calvert stuff. Springs, bars, and shocks.
Class is typically NHRA Pro ET. Basic bottom bulb, no electronics, bracket racing.

 

[dvw]

Easier with a brake off the top bulb and a box for sure. But off the bottom bulb? In my mind finding the spot on the tree is the key. We run a lot of Stock S/S stuff. All the S/S cars run a brake. Many of the stockers run a two step. In our Great Lakes series; 6 races 3 wins/1 r/u by N/SS cars, footbrake with no chip. NMCA vs Great Lakes shoot out was won by a N/SS car. In the Buckeye 7 race N/SS 1 win/1 r/u. Not to mention the mjority of the rest of the of the wins in these 2 series were stockers or stick shift cars. Not saying a brake is a bad idea. But it's not the cure for inconsistency.
Doug

 

[67MPRFAN]

What mods are you doing to the transmission to go with the brake

 

[33 IMP]

My car ran virtually the same, using the brake or not. The DRIVER was better using the brake, even without a two step. Floor it on the first yellow, step off at the third. The right converter verses the wrong one was worth a tenth and a half, two mph, in the eighth.

 

[LemonWedge]

What mods are you doing to the transmission to go with the brake

It’s already got a bolt in sprag, 4.2:1 band lever, & a deep aluminum pan. I’m adding a billet L/R servo with the brake. The one thing I do still need to add is a billet front drum. The new valve body is a low-band apply design, as was the current T/A unit. I also run an SFI safety blanket.
I had a good conversation with John Cope about the drum. He strongly recommends it, but says that the brake itself doesn’t necessarily add any more danger than there is currently. Planning to add a billet drum next refresh.

 

[LemonWedge]

Easier with a brake off the top bulb and a box for sure. But off the bottom bulb? In my mind finding the spot on the tree is the key. We run a lot of Stock S/S stuff. All the S/S cars run a brake. Many of the stockers run a two step. In our Great Lakes series; 6 races 3 wins/1 r/u by N/SS cars, footbrake with no chip. NMCA vs Great Lakes shoot out was won by a N/SS car. In the Buckeye 7 race N/SS 1 win/1 r/u. Not to mention the mjority of the rest of the of the wins in these 2 series were stockers or stick shift cars. Not saying a brake is a bad idea. But it's not the cure for inconsistency.
Doug

I don’t disagree Doug, especially with the results you’ve had. I felt the same when the car had the 451 in it. But something changed with the new mill. I’ve been able to be consistent with my lights, but not consistently on time like I once was. If I leave on the flash of the bottom where I used to be consistently .015-.020, I’m now .005 - .015 red. I’ve done everything I can to slow the car down (tire pressures, 2-step RPM) but just can’t get slowed down much beyond that. So I’ve found a different spot on the tree I can be safe with, but it involves me hesitating on that flash. Real tough to be confident in that, and that process has me hovering around .040 - .050. Competitive? Sure…. But I’m willing to give this a try to see if I can be better. The key here is the shimmable button. It’s an advantage I’ve watched my buddies utilize with results you just can’t argue with.

 

[padam]

If you’re not 100% sure of your traction, rear suspension might need a look

 

[Tex013]

LW
good on you for stepping up as you see fit . I have gone the other way the last 3 years . Tbrake is nice but a little harder on car especially if you choose to leave higher , 35/4000+ . Make sure those spring perches are boxed . My Plymouth was not a huge amount faster basically whatever it picked up in the 60 plus a hair more . I run PBR radials if you are on rags its a probably easier . Tune reaction off bottom light using 2step rpm . Here in Aus we cannot use adjustable buttons in my class , I am in a no box class .
For sure its getting more competitive . I am currently fitting a race seat , new delay box , shifter (with air shift) and transmission in a mates car to close the gap between his semi street car and the pure race cars in his class .
Like Doug going foot against tbrake can be a little tougher but its practice practice practice . And hold some to cover when you race the finish .

Tex