Tapered axle removal
- Thread starter RustyRatRod
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RustyRatRod
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Yup yup. And THANKS for that article. Even though I cut the studs flush and drilled the centers the new studs were still a little loose, so I just spot welded them in on the back side.
Now I'm waiting on a slide hammer axle remover. Of all the tools I have, that's just one I never have owned. I have no doubt I'll get it apart then.
Now I'm waiting on a slide hammer axle remover. Of all the tools I have, that's just one I never have owned. I have no doubt I'll get it apart then.
Centerline
Well-Known Member
They make all different sizes of studs so if one set is a little loose you can always pick up a set that has a slightly larger base if you want. That said, I did exactly what you're doing on the front hubs of my 32 Ford highboy (.... which is powered by a 331 hemi by the way). Tack welded them in place mainly because I was too lazy to order a larger set.
What you're looking at here is 40 Ford backing plates modified to accept mid 70's GM station wagon self energizing brakes and stock 40 Ford hubs with new studs. This is the "poor man's" way to get self energizing brakes on the front of a Deuce. The Lincoln brake kit (which basically does the same thing is over $400). The only other option is disks but they aren't appropriate for a period (early 60's) correct car.
RustyRatRod
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Exactly. After I drove them in.....and very easily, I spied my mig in the corner and it was all downhill from there. lol Don't you want a spare 331?
Centerline
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No thanks. I put one in a '53 Chevy pickup, and another one in my Deuce. They're just too expensive to keep on building them.... two is my limit.
[video=youtube;1kqZ_OPjePI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1kqZ_OPjePI[/video]
RustyRatRod
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Those look real nice.
RustyRatRod
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I got the axles out today. They came right out with a few light taps with the slide hammer. I also found a replacement axle for the driver's side. woohoo.
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sweeeeet.. love when a plan comes together!
RustyRatRod
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Yeah me too. I was absolutely NOT gonna swap rear ends. Also.....get this. I found out that this could well BE the original rear axle for this car. There were some 65 cars that got it. Not that I care about that......but I gotta use what I have. I should have my 4.56 sure grip in in a day or two since I got the axles out. ;)
Centerline
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It would be interesting to know the build date on your car. I'm betting it was an early '65... probably a late October thru December '64 build.
RustyRatRod
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How do I tell?
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Sounds like a little heat and slap job. Willdo the trick!
RustyRatRod
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I got my 4.56 chunk swapped in today and my replacement axle will be here Monday. Not sure if my axles will work with the sure grip chunk thrust block or not, but I will hack some off the axles if need be.
Bull1tt
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I was thinking about doing this conversion on a 64 Dodge, and wondering if the outer axle seals and bearings are still available for tapered axles?
Centerline
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They're still available at Kanter. ( http://www.kanter.com ) but they're a little pricy.
A complete set of bearings and seals will set you back $182.00.
RustyRatRod
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I got all the seals comin from RockAuto for 23 bucks.
Centerline
Well-Known Member
Check your fender tag.
Last row:
SQ left digit 1-9 (Jan-Sept) A-C (Oct - Dec) 1964. All w/ # 1-7 are built 1965. Right two digits are
date. Example SQ=B22 are Nov. 22 1964. Number=08065 factory invoice numbers.
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