Temo gauge goes to full after car runs for about 5 minutes.

[Mopar Hunter]

 

[Dominic Torreto]

Installed it and it seemed ok. Next time I drove it the temp was reading very very low and I was in the 180-190 range. I bought the Standard TS17 and it has worked perfect. I have the old Miller special tool gauge tester which is no more than 3 sets of specific range resistors. Gauge would read low, half, and high. Point is Cheap is no good.

Well I am gonna close shop. I ordered ome from oreillys. So if it does the same bs it has to be something else.

 

[Dominic Torreto]

View attachment 1568044

Thats cute

 

[dadsbee]

You're welcome...

 

[kiwigtx]

Get this Standard one TS17.

Rock Auto sell that one too.

 

[Demonic]

My factory IVR had an issue and it would sweep the gauges randomly in my Charger. I installed the RTE electronic IVR and no problems since.

Did you check the voltage at the sender plug with a volt meter when the gauges are pegged?

 

[Mopar Miki]

Please explain how these IR temp guns are "inaccurate"?

 

[Dominic Torreto]

Please explain how these IR temp guns are "inaccurate"?

There not innacurate. I had issues with a mitsubishi Eclipse. You have to check multiple areas when using one. If the exhaust heat is high and the laser is going through that heat and your aiming it at an intake manifold the temp can and will be higher than it shows depending on the angle. Also the temperature from the outside is about 7 to 15 degrees hotter than the actual coolant temperature and that was told to me by Auto Lite guages customer tech support. Great tools but the physical thermometer is a lot more acurate but its also more of a pain in the *** because of the heat easy to get burnt with one of those. I use them both.

 

[Dominic Torreto]

Oreillys told me TS17 is at store going to try this TS17 theory. Honestly my prediction is it isnt going to work but its worth a shot I guess will keep you guus posted.

 

[Rennkafer]

The high end guns are supposed to be pretty good even at lower temps....

The high end guns allow you to calibrate them to different surface reflectivity. This is why the cheap ones are ok for relative readings (as in "are all the header tubes getting hot"), but not great for accurate temp readings as the gun needs to be calibrated to the surface for that.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

To echo what someone else said - it could very well be your gauge. I had the same issue. After you swap the temp sensor and try that, if it still reads high at the gauge, remove the gauge and install a mechanical one that is sealed and not a clip onto sensor type. Check engine temp after 5 min with that other gauge to confirm what you're seeing is real. In my case, it was the gauge had got fried due to my VR letting too much voltage through.

As was also said - the fuel gauge and temp gauge are on the same circuit and SHOULD both act up, but for peace of mind I would just do the coolant temp gauge swap test anyway to rule it out. A basic one is only $40 or less.

 

[Dominic Torreto]

Hah. Junk. Cheap 1.76 rock auto junk. I had that same unit just do the opposite. Kept showing to cold. Get this Standard one TS17.

​

Well the TS17 didnt fix the problem somethung has to be going on in the dash. So now I am really confused because from what I understabd if it goes to full while grounding it out thab that means the dash and wiring are good. So damn upset right now. Does anybody on here have any idea what is going on? This one problem is preventing me from driving this car.

 

[pnora]

Well the TS17 didnt fix the problem somethung has to be going on in the dash. So now I am really confused because from what I understabd if it goes to full while grounding it out thab that means the dash and wiring are good. So damn upset right now. Does anybody on here have any idea what is going on? This one problem is preventing me from driving this car.

Somewhere between the sender and the gauge that wire must be grounding out. Take the wire out of the bulkhead and see what the gauge does.

 

[dadsbee]

I'll try one more time.... read post #17 again. Get a meter out and check the thing.

Then get a 10 ohm resistor, put one end in the sender wire spade and the other against ground. It should make the gauge read to the "full" line of the gauge scale.

Then do what pnora keeps telling you to look for a bare spot in the sender wire that's rubbing on something... hell, start there!

 

[Dominic Torreto]

Somewhere between the sender and the gauge that wire must be grounding out. Take the wire out of the bulkhead and see what the gauge does.

I already did that on post 1.

 

[Dominic Torreto]

Now its staying at 0 even when you ground it pretty sure its the gauge at this point and was going out and now its completely broken. I am going to buy a new gauge and put it in. I did do a direct connection at the post and grounded it and it did not move at all. This gauge has to be fried at this point.

 

[Dominic Torreto]

I'll try one more time.... read post #17 again. Get a meter out and check the thing.

Then get a 10 ohm resistor, put one end in the sender wire spade and the other against ground. It should make the gauge read to the "full" line of the gauge scale.

Then do what pnora keeps telling you to look for a bare spot in the sender wire that's rubbing on something... hell, start there!

Back when it was doing the full after 5 mins if you disconnected it it went to 0 and if you grounded it it went to full. I said that on the original post. As for the ohms test I did not do that yet but at this point gauge is definitely the problem.

 

[dadsbee]

Okay... I'm out.