temp gauge hook up help

[mpdlawdog]

OK...I just ran the line for my new temp gauge (mechanical)....I cant get the plug out of the top of the water pump to put the sender into...its not coming out peroid....is there another place I can put the sender into the block?

The end of the new gauge is too big to go into the stock location...didnt realise there were different sizes....I saw where someone drilled a hole in the water pump housing and put one in there.

How about either drain plug on the side of the block by the motor mounts? Will that work or has anybody tried it?

Thanks in advance

 

[67 coronet]

i have run them to the sides of the block before,works just fine.is there no plugs in your intake you could remove?assuming small block of course.

 

[mpdlawdog]

its a 383 sry....nope nothing on the manifold...its a stock one....I guess I will go with the side of the block...I was afraid the probe would be too long and jack something up in side the block?

 

[Dako]

Did you try tightening the plug? Sometimes a little tightening motion will move it just enough to allow it to break loose. Another trick is to strike the plug with a hammer...hammer and punch if it's hard to reach...or hit it while applying pressure with a wrench...in each direction.

Is the paint cleared at the threads allowing you to get some penetrating oil in there? Break the 'paint seal', get some liquid wrench (or equivalent) in there, run the motor up to operation temps a couple times over a few days...adding penetrant before and after each run, then try the suggestions above. Running it will heat and cool the motor allowing it to naturally wick the penetrant into the threads.

If you have access to an air (impact) gun it may help. That 'rat-ta-tat-tat' motion is just like a bunch of strikes with a hammer while applying torque pressure...very effective on stubborn hardware.

No matter what method you use, if it starts to bind...don't force it. Apply more penetrant and try running it back in a ways. This allows you to clear/ lube the threads. Even with the fitting out, a bunged up hole in your water pump does you no good.

 

[mpdlawdog]

White flag is out

Just came in after the 2nd day trying to get the plug out of the water pump....I tried everything.....no luck! Going to plan b....the drain plugs on the block....anybody have that set up? Thx

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

There is a brass adapter that will go into the waterpump that goes from small to large allowing the large temp line to go into the w/p.
I can't find a clear picture:happy7:

 

[hendo0601]

Installing a temp gauge probe into the side of the block wont hurt anything as there are no moving parts inside the block cooling passages, so dont worry about that. Just make sure to route the line from the sending unit to the gauge away from the header/manifold to prevent melting.

 

[MarPar]

There is a brass adapter that will go into the waterpump that goes from small to large allowing the large temp line to go into the w/p.
I can't find a clear picture:happy7:

one like this???

 

[tpodwdog]

TRY THIS.......

if its an allen head plug....get the engine hot, put an allen wrench that goes on a 3/8 drive extension....and hit it with a hammer a few times...THENNNNN

tighten it....not loosen it then try to loosen it.... DONT TAKE IT OUT UNTIL THE ENGINE COOLS OR YOULL GET A HOT BATH

...thats how i had to get mine out

 

[mpdlawdog]

Thanks guys....I tried everything suggested...no luck...tried to get the back heater hose hook up out...yea thats not coming out either.....I guess I will be taking the water pump housing off and taking it into my buddys shop...:angry1:

 

[Dako]

At some point it may be cheaper to install a new water pump...with new fittings, than it is to work over the old pump? :eusa_think:

But that would be admitting defeat...and sometimes we just have a hard time doing that. :angry9:

Wouldn't blame you if you did though...they do come with a new gasket. :toothy5:

 

[tribout]

I had this same problem. Eventually just bought a new housing and pump. There not that expensive. And went aluminum with the new one and shed a few pounds from the cast stock housing and pump..

 

[HT413]

I agree with tpod. Get the engine hot - this expands the size of the plug hole. Problem is it also expands the plug. Sooooooo, putting a cold allen key in will shrink the plug a little. This might sound crazy, but putting the allen wrench (and extension) in the freezer for a while before use will allow it to steal even more heat from the plug, thus shrinking it even more. That and a couple o whacks might do it.

 

[mpdlawdog]

update

OK so I finally got time to get to work on the charger....wife decided to flip my jeep...long story....

decided to give up the fight and remove the heater hoses....I blocked off one and used the other port for the temp gauge. That allen plug was not coming out...period! I've had everything off the front of the car three times already (grill repair..new radiator...paint) didnt want to do it again.....anyway the car runs all day at 180 degrees...even when it was 100 out.....Thanks for the help....

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

Aww, I hate it when a stupid bolt won't budge loose! If you just get a long enough cheater bar to fit around your wrench.....plus plenty of liquid wrench soaking.

Someone earlier said it too - an impact wrench can work wonders. I have a small 18V Makita impact drill. I've loosened many bolts and screws I had given up on with that drill. It works great.

I know you said you went with plan B, but just giving you a few more options.

 

[Meep-Meep]

The temp sensor should be near the heads if possible, or in the path where the hottest water returns to the radiator. Some of those rusted pipe plugs will need to be drilled out and then chased with a pipe tap because using the "cheater bar" approach will usually result in stripping the hex long before you get the plug to move. It's just one of Murphy's laws.

 

[mpdlawdog]

The temp sensor should be near the heads if possible, or in the path where the hottest water returns to the radiator. Some of those rusted pipe plugs will need to be drilled out and then chased with a pipe tap because using the "cheater bar" approach will usually result in stripping the hex long before you get the plug to move. It's just one of Murphy's laws.

where else could the sending unit go? the side of the block is too short.....
The electrical one and mechanical one almost read the same ......im guessing Im ok there.....

 

[67 coronet]

your placement is fine,just watch you dont have that mechanical leed rub a hole in your distributor vac advance.i had a rubber hose rub through an ac metal line because of vibration.i normally run that leed under the dist housing(below the cap)