I have the NHRA rule book which covers 8.50 cages in the general regulations section, along with SFI books on 25.2, 25.3 and 25.5 and there’s nothing that specifically address the placement of that bar, only the need and the tubing size.Hemi, that works but read the rule book if there is one. If you go further to windshield you got some bends that suck which I'm sure you have already ran into.
Probably one of the best caged mopars I’ve seen. If I were in the paint and body phase with this car, I would definitely go ahead and go through the dash. It would move the A-pillar bars forward and make the windshield bar easier to make. Unfortunately, I’m way past that and not pulling all the glass out.No visors but the mirror fits. The time spent going thru the dash was worth it. Easy to get in. The removable wheel is the secret.
Doug
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That picture was just a reference photo showing how the A-pillar bars look in front of the dash in a 70 Plymouth. However, your comment is exactly the reason I cut the 6-point bar out of my car. The shop that installed it, had the main bar upright and too far forward so the bench wouldn’t go all the way back. I won’t have that issue as I’ve leaned the main hoop back. I’ll also fit the seat before putting in the seat bar as it can be bent to allow a few more inches if need be.Nice work as usual....but my only criticism/query is this - is there sufficient space for the front seats to slide back far enough for the taller guy who might ride in this car? I know in my case, the seats would go back further than the rear of the door opening.
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I’m not even trying to calculate, lol. I removed the entire exhaust, a 60lb nitrous bottle, mount, line assembly, an extra battery and box, a heavy .134 wall steel 6pt bar, and transitioned to an aluminum block over an iron block. I added a set of twin turbos and related hardware. Overall, I should have a reduction of 150-200#. I have two other sources of weight reduction I’m considering. First is a fiberglass front bumper that might take off 25 or so and then a fiberglass hood. I’m not sure what that hood weighs, but I’d guess a good 80lbs.If my calculations are correct, I should be 3900 or less with me in it next year.
Thanks...I would hate to see that become a problem after months of fabbing.That picture was just a reference photo showing how the A-pillar bars look in front of the dash in a 70 Plymouth. However, your comment is exactly the reason I cut the 6-point bar out of my car. The shop that installed it, had the main bar upright and too far forward so the bench wouldn’t go all the way back. I won’t have that issue as I’ve leaned the main hoop back. I’ll also fit the seat before putting in the seat bar as it can be bent to allow a few more inches if need be.
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Visors are definitely a no go but I’m willing to live with that over the intrusive bar. I can make a new mirror mount tab.Any ideas for the visors. Rear view mirror can go on a plate on the bar. Great work
Probably could. It wouldn’t be too difficult to mount them from a tab, but I’m not sure it’s worth it. I rarely use them as it is.Could you fab the visors to the bar?
I’m looking at wide angle bar mount units now. Some of the brackets racers use them for watching the other guy. It would probably be more useful in traffic lol.If the mirror is a problem any late model "glue to the windshield" unit would work.
Mike