The 383 problem is solved.

[SteveSS]

It's a two-step kind of thing. Today the Mopar electrician guy came over and started checking things. Spark at the coil, OK. Spark at plugs OK. The distributor cap was 180 degrees out. There is a little notch on the cap and it was in the wrong orientation. That's the mobile mechanic's fault. My fault too since I didn't know to look for that. He changed that and it started. He set the timing too.

The second part is going to be mysterious still. What caused all the problems coming home? Some parts I changed fixed it. Points, Condensor, Plugs, Distributor Cap, Ballast Resistor, Coil. I may never know.

 

[padam]

Wow, I don't want to pile on, but it seems like you got a lesson in how not to troubleshoot.

 

[Jerry Hall]

Any one of the items you replaced could have caused your problem initially. Don't ever hire that mobile mechanic again, there is no excuse for the distributor being 180 out especially when working on a car that was running and just developed some problems. If the firing order is wrong you will never start it.

 

[R413]

Thing is Pretty difficult to install the cap backwards, doesn’t fit with the notch in the wrong spot, so how did he manage that one?

 

[SteveSS]

Spoke too soon. It starts and idles fine in the garage. I backed it out in the cul de sac and it died. It still has no power. I have an appointment with a speed shop on Tuesday. I guess I'm keeping it.

 

[Jerry Hall]

Did your Mopar electrical guy happen to tell you what he set the timing at or check the advance.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Having initial timing set too low will cause it to puke and die. 10 degrees is a decent starting point but you will more thank likely end up in the 14 to 16 range. All I. At. 34 to 36 with advance unplugged.

 

[Moparnocar]

Did you ever check if your losing voltage at the coil and ballast resistor? I was just fighting one that had a bad pin in the bulkhead