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The Elephant In The Room: unloading the load from a B-body.

Off topic for a second, but below is the idea that I based my own idea for a block freeze out plug harnessing system.

Instead of individual braces that require drilling and taping the block, it would be one brace stretching across the block surface and blockading all the plugs at once. It's what I would call a Naval Blockade to keep water and engine coolants in the block in case of a plug failure. It would be fastened in some way on both sides of the block.
Anyways, back to weight loss.

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The KEY to success in anything is looking into the details, no matter how minute they may seem and where the Devil has had a residency for a long time.
This is an example of differences and sometimes not necessarily by a lot. The silver KEY is a common chrome plated brass type while the green one below it is an anodized aluminum type usually handed out by dealers back in the day. It shook me enough that it wouldn't even register on the Richter scale.
The KEY issue here is to shave the tonnage, pounds, ounces and grams which play a KEY role in helping a car accelerate all while keeping things low KEY.
LOL.
Credits: Aluminum KEY supplied by "Special K", a KEY figure in all of this madness.

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As most of you know, most if not all of the tricks on here have already been applied to the car, but little subtractions have yet to be done. Here's something that even though I have been wanting to replace it for years with a lighter unit, somehow was forgotten. Yes, it would seem that an aluminum bolt would be the best way, but not when your distributor depends on air tight clamping to keep time, so a 6AL4V titanium bolt got the nod. Here's the steel stocker at .075

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Who dares to lose 3/4 of a pound up front and low and a part of their sanity all at once?
Then again, this is all insanity to begin with.
I can't begin to tell you how much of a PITA it has been to switch from a steel 971 deep sump 7 qt pan to an aluminum deep sump 7 qt pan from Stefs.

Now mind you, the Stefs pan is a work of art and the fitment, the looks and function are dead on the money, but the problem starts with a totally unrelated foreign part that until I figure it out and rectify it, I can't throw beef across the room. Meanwhile, 3/4 of a pound is slated to get the boot. Stay tuned.

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Looks like a cut line mark. If you turn the drag link around. Will it fit? Or are the bends facing rearward already?
Doug
 
Auto Transport Service
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