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The Park-to-Drive Clunk?

Dibbons

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I know u-joints on the brink of collapse will contribute to a clunk sound when shifting an automatic into gear (with the brake applied), but what if the u-joints are sound and one hears a clunk anyway? I can't picture in my mind what goes on inside the differential to cause such a phenomenon. What is the common denominator in these cases? Thank you.

7 1:4.jpeg
 
Worn gears The gear on the left is too far away from the pinion gear and that distance is enough to make a clunk. The 2 caps with bolts you see have adjusters in them but you need to use shims along with the adjusters to move that gear left or right. Also a front pinion gear depth may not be enough and again the distance causes a clunk. I have a 486 case and sure grip that I'm wanting to set up but im afraid I will not get the adjustments right. Never set one up before. I know the basics of it but I don't want to mess it up.

 
Another thing is if your engine idle is a little high you're going to get a good clunk when placing it in drive. How is it shifting between drive and reverse?
 
Only set up 1 8-3/4" in my life, 5 yrs of drag racing only and never had a problem with it. Followed the service manual faithfully. Noisy? I don't know(headers only), but it stayed together and looked beautiful when I took it out to sell.
 
pinion bearing/crush sleeve failure/wear
if you hear that clunk and can move the yoke in/out at all,stop driving the car and fix it immediately.
 
If not for sure the U joints, it's worn gears, ring & pinion. U joint is sure the most likely.
 
leaving one checkball out of the valve body for more pressure will do it
pull it through to d then back to r helps
 
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