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The Roach

My 70 Charger R/T was yellow, after receiving a fresh coat of flat black primer, I painted Back in Black on the trunk lid!

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Closer still ....


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He's got to fit the fenders and doors next, then remove the doors. The hood, doors, trunk lid, door shields and front valance will be painted separately.
 
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More purple parts …..


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All panels are fitted, but the hood, doors and trunk lid will be painted separately. The fenders will be painted on the car.
 

Something that I have wondered about is how to minimize overspray when a car is painted in pieces.
This is not criticism, just me thinking out loud and encouraging a response from those in the know.
With the back side of the panels painted as shown, then the car assembled, I'm guessing the assembled car exterior gets painted. I know that I'm not skilled enough to paint a metallic with a car apart and expect every panel to seamlessly blend together. I've seen numerous cars where the particles laid different from a door to a fender and I know that is from a repaint/repair where they butt-matched the paint and didn't fade the paint into a nearby panel.
Regarding the overspray, you have nicely painted door jambs, underhood, underside of trunk, the trunk gutters, etc but during final paint and clear, the gaps in the body do allow paint and clear to find their way in. Does anyone mask the "inner areas" to prevent this? Even if you're spraying the same color in and out, without masking, you're going to get sugar coat, a condition where the sheen/clear may be more evident in one area or another.
When these cars were new, they were fully assembled when they were painted. The doors, hood and trunklid were opened for painters to access those places, then it was closed up as well as it could be without the latches to hold everything shut.
I've sprayed single stage and never had a problem with the paint looking weird inside the "inner areas". I did a DD1 metallic in 2017 that was base/clear and it did have the sugar coat in the trunk gutters and underhood.

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Something that I have wondered about is how to minimize overspray when a car is painted in pieces.
This is not criticism, just me thinking out loud and encouraging a response from those in the know.
With the back side of the panels painted as shown, then the car assembled, I'm guessing the assembled car exterior gets painted. I know that I'm not skilled enough to paint a metallic with a car apart and expect every panel to seamlessly blend together. I've seen numerous cars where the particles laid different from a door to a fender and I know that is from a repaint/repair where they butt-matched the paint and didn't fade the paint into a nearby panel.
Regarding the overspray, you have nicely painted door jambs, underhood, underside of trunk, the trunk gutters, etc but during final paint and clear, the gaps in the body do allow paint and clear to find their way in. Does anyone mask the "inner areas" to prevent this? Even if you're spraying the same color in and out, without masking, you're going to get sugar coat, a condition where the sheen/clear may be more evident in one area or another.
When these cars were new, they were fully assembled when they were painted. The doors, hood and trunklid were opened for painters to access those places, then it was closed up as well as it could be without the latches to hold everything shut.
I've sprayed single stage and never had a problem with the paint looking weird inside the "inner areas". I did a DD1 metallic in 2017 that was base/clear and it did have the sugar coat in the trunk gutters and underhood.

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I don't know his secret other than thorough masking, but he painted this car for me the same way 4 years. There is no difference in the metallic pattern, color match is fine and there is no overspray anywhere.

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My Bee was painted in pieces as well... House of Kolors and all panels match. Painter with 45+ years experience that understands full color coverage and paint mixing from multiple gallons.

Bird same deal in Yellow..
 
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