There are plenty of them there now to make you a new one!
The Roach
- Thread starter Richard Cranium
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Couldn't you just solder or braze the pinhole, paint it and save the wait time to get a new one?Another little snag; after filling the radiator, the next morning I found a coolant leak at the back of the engine where the heater hoses attach to. I thought it was a loose hose clamp, but it turned out to be a pin hole where the bracket welds onto the tube. The intake manifold had to be pulled to get the tube out, which runs under the intake & into the water pump.
A replacement is about 32 bucks and I’ll order one today.
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I suppose so, but I’ll pick up the new one on Monday.
themechanic
Oklahoma is OK
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Better get some rubber plugs and pressure test before installing the new one.
Sixpactogo
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For $32 bucks, I would clean the paint off and smear on some JB Weld. You will never see it once you reinstall the intake.
I would spend the 32 bucks verses a failure on the road!
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Well, I got the engine fired up this afternoon. There is something that I'm still not getting with one of the MP wires, which is required to be live in the crank and run positions, but I jumped that wire to the hot wire on the ignition switch and it fired right up. There doesn't seem to be any connections on the ignition switch that are live during both cranking &in the run position. Maybe I have to go outside the ignition switch to find a circuit that is live during cranking?
I'll eventually get there, but right now, I'm very pleased.
I'll eventually get there, but right now, I'm very pleased.
Electrical isn't my specialty at all, and I'm currently all hopped up on pain meds, but I thought of the ballast resistor when you described what's going on. Probably just kooky talk, so don't mind me. Congrats on getting it running!
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Electrical isn't my specialty at all, and I'm currently all hopped up on pain meds, but I thought of the ballast resistor when you described what's going on. Probably just kooky talk, so don't mind me. Congrats on getting it running!
No ballast resistor with this computerized stuff. The wire in question needs to be switched, as it turns the ignition circuit.
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themechanic
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It's Alive!
do you have the push button switch, the newer cars have to sense the fob so it knows its not being stolen. I dont know how much of the new harness your using. What year? Ive seen a couple of shows/videos showing that same problem. Just a thought.
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I didn't wire up the remote starter button; just wired everything to the ignition switch. I've been thinking about it since I came in at 4:00, and I think I've now got the wiring issue figured out in my head. I'll wire in the starter button & put it to the test tomorrow.
The guy trying to explain women on the whiteboard video comes to mind when RC says I got it all figured out in my head! My guess is you are somewhere between hot and crazy!
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The wiring directions that come with the MP kit on how to wire it into your existing electrical harness are a bit vague. There are actually not that many wires to connect, but the wording in their directions leaves one scratching their head. I was told that a separate starter button is needed, but didn't understand why. The answer is because one of the MP wires needs to be hot when the ignition is turned on and also when cranking, and this is something that our old ignition switches can't do. hence, the need for a starter button. This should be put in their directions. Seeing that most of these kits are going into a 60s-70s old Mopar, you'd think that they would give you that additional information instead of leaving it up to the user to figure it out.
I know that Holley makes a kit of their own & I wonder if theirs needs a starter button as well.
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For my fuel injection, I made an electrical "OR" circuit, where I connected the "Start" and the "Run" wires together. This went to the ECU since it needed power for both start and run. To avoid backfeeding the start or run circuits, I put diodes in each of the wires feeding the connection.The wiring directions that come with the MP kit on how to wire it into your existing electrical harness are a bit vague. There are actually not that many wires to connect, but the wording in their directions leaves one scratching their head. I was told that a separate starter button is needed, but didn't understand why. The answer is because one of the MP wires needs to be hot when the ignition is turned on and also when cranking, and this is something that our old ignition switches can't do. hence, the need for a starter button. This should be put in their directions. Seeing that most of these kits are going into a 60s-70s old Mopar, you'd think that they would give you that additional information instead of leaving it up to the user to figure it out.
I know that Holley makes a kit of their own & I wonder if theirs needs a starter button as well.
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After three minutes of rewiring, I’ve got it working properly. Now to clean this ignition wiring mess up.
The mess of wiring on the passenger side is a/c wiring which will be done later.
The mess of wiring on the passenger side is a/c wiring which will be done later.
The factory did it at the ballast resistor. A wire from the starter relay goes over to the output side of the ballast resistor to give it 12V while cranking, then when crank is released, the 12V from the ignition switch goes through the ballast resistor. I could fix it for you, but you're a little far away. I absolutely hate pushbutton start on an old car. Just my ocd kicking in.
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