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The Willomet Charger

You're an artist for sure!
Thanks man.

Are you saying you at the TIG set to 37 amps? I typically set mine up higher but move fast on sheet metal.
My general go-by is for 1 amp per thousandth inch of thickness. 20ga is about .040, and I’ve found setups like this small flange will quickly heat soak. Larger panels have more capacity to absorb and disperse heat, hence why I use a lot of chill blocks and copper backers to keep the material together. The first three or four dabs with .035 70S-6 are slow, and the pace picks up from there. It’s maybe 10-12 dabs per inch, and then I air quench. For straight current on a fillet, 37 is in the lower end of the normal current range, but I’m getting a steady and stable full penetration on these with a blendable profile. When I use pulse, I’ll peak to about 53A welding the same joint.

On these joints, the breakover from full pen to blowout is a fine one. I’m definitely being a bit conservative.

David
 
David - you are all over it, you know TIG is as much wizardry as it is skill at times and I am certainly not an expert or even a pro, I can do it and get the metal to stick but it can be hit and miss at times. I just modified my welding table to give me a fab side to allow me to clamp things to it in order to decrease/control distortion (192 holes all tapped for 3/8-16).

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I just modified my welding table to give me a fab side to allow me to clamp things to it in order to decrease/control distortion (192 holes all tapped for 3/8-16).
Mag Drill Monday! You’ll never look back. Add some chill and fixture blocks, and there’s no limit to what you can jig up.

David
 
Sometimes, the old ways are the best way. Hand filing these corners gives them the press brake look of the original extensions, and the weld has enough profile to do it.

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I burned this all in last night, and am about to get to blending.

David
 
Question, were the original braces welded on or what?
 
Didn't think of that, your likely correct that they are similar.
 
Last two connectors made. These took a minute. I had to learn how to bead roll.

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Blending them will be a challenge, but I’m forming a plan.

David
 
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I decided to make these connectors one more time; this time with a prestretch along the bead roll line to eliminate the potato chip effect.

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This one is as flat as Kansas now. One more to go.

David
 
The package tray and inner fender houses are reunited.

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Mostly straight current 40A, mostly autogeneous

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Tight fits in the corners

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Light planish and blend

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Copy and paste

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This process is actually pretty slow, so this handful photos summarizes maybe 15 hours. Most of the time is spent fitting, blending, and planishing.

David
 
Explain "planishing" for those of us, ( OK, Me) who don't know what that is.
All good bud. Planishing is pretty much the final step of metal bumping that smooths out the minor imperfections in the panel. For this flat surface, that means low crown body hammers, with a dolley on the back side (called hammer on dolley). There are also pneumatic versions of these tools, but I’m all handheld right now.

It’s a slow process: bump, file, bump, file, and so on using modest pressure with the dolley and only hitting the panel hard enough to move the metal. Too much woo-pow, and you’ll thin the panel and create an oil can effect.

It’s a vital part of making a weld seams lie flat and disappear.

David
 
Thanks David, that is a lot of effort but your final product bears witness to the worth.
These little panels will disappear under upholstery, but they're very good practice for all the welds and panels that won't

David
 
If he lived closer I would be at his elbow daily, learning.
 
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