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This was painful to watch...
- Thread starter Snook
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Nick is unscrewing the drive end of the shaft. Smart of them to do it that way. You can use the same distributor with a B or RB engine, just change the drive end for a different length. But, right hand threads unscrew themselves in a big block. 
I am sure it is The MP electronic one I can tell by the advance plate with the built in reluctor. Good distributor, not seeing the screw on shaft. Hard to get internals for them. Not made for years and even then scarce, everything is specific to that Mopar electronics inside it. I get them usually welded to lock them out for crank triggers!
No idea what the screw on is. A extension of some sorts not factory.
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Could be a marine dizzy.
Chuck (snook)
Chuck (snook)
No they have screen vents on the side.
I am pretty sure it is the MP distributor, no idea why that was done to the shaft. Leaning towards it was a B dist modded to fit a RB engine. Not a good idea to me right up there with the collars people put on the shafts.
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Man, watched the whole thing but it took 3 hours! I've used the base 'adapters' and even machined some but this is the first time to see a screw on shaft adapter......
Gunner1
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Did anyone notice that the secondary air flaps were fluttering closed a lot at high rpm? That had to kill some power up top. On the over head shots you can look right down into the secondaries. I dont know why but some sort of reversion going on.
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I would think that would have an effect but don't know and have never dealt with those carbs as I don't like them....
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Carters/Edelbrocks are the only carbs I'll run. Simple and dependable when set up correctly.
Chuck (snook)
Chuck (snook)
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I'm thinking they are like TQ's....pain in the butt until they can be tuned?
icetech
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I was actually trying to decide today what carb to go with... the new AVS2 looks damn good.. I have run holleys and carters in the past, both work but carters just seem to never give any issues and are less finicky.
P.S. the only thing i have read bad is that the metering rods can bounce around if you have a big cam/shakey motor.. not sure how real that is though or what effect it would have.
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They said it was an iron dual point converted to electronic. It looks like a Mopar pick up coil but the reluctor is really different. It’s a good idea that seems poorly executed…
Gunner1
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You just need to know your idle vacuum then use the correct spring for the rods pistons.
I have always ran AFB's simple to set up, you can get the strip kits that has jets and metering rods and all you have to do is take the top off and change them. Easy as they get.
maxwedgechar
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All Nick had to do was ask one of us here and we would have sent him our car if he would've paid the freight! Sorry, Nick, non-original block with non-original heads does not a Max Wedge make! Just because you have a Max Wedge intake doesn't mean you have a Max Wedge! While not the original block, Max has a correct block, correct heads, date coded intake, 13.5 compression, 3705 carbs, 300J Autolite dual point, fenderwell headers and RMVB TorqueFlite. THAT's how you make Max Wedge horsepower!
maxwedgechar
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@stage3 OK, I knew somebody was going to disagree. How do YOU make Max Wedge horsepower?
Carcinogen
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Nick had mentioned full throttle vacuum was too low and carbs were too big, partner mentioned 500s might run better.
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