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Thoughts on using stock harness vs full replacement

Mike Brini said:
When I wired my car I didn't see any. Also I added a/c, fuel injection, power windows and locks and remote start. So I needed more fused circuits
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When I did all my upgrades, Vintage Air, Sniper, Electric Fans, etc, etc, they all have their own fused circuits that gets wired straight in to the battery. Even though PW and locks is about the only upgrade I didn’t do I still have a few open circuits still left on the factory fuse box.
 
dadsbee said:
I reused my dash harness, but I cut off every wire an inch or so back from the bulkhead and crimped new ends on and used a new bulkhead connector. Also replaced my headlight switch connector and 6" of wire, as that's another spot that likes to "cook" and harden wires on these old boats. Other than that a good inspection of all wiring for hot spots and hardening and there's no reason not to save 500 bucks! Engine compartment wiring is usually heat soaked and cooked, but that harness is cheap.
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Where can you find the headlight switch connector, mine looks pitiful. Also any source for the male / female crimp connectors? Mine is all on the bench and I want to make sure all is good and correct before putting the wiring, dash, etc back in. Thanks
 
dspur said:
Where can you find the headlight switch connector, mine looks pitiful. Also any source for the male / female crimp connectors? Mine is all on the bench and I want to make sure all is good and correct before putting the wiring, dash, etc back in. Thanks
Click to expand...
Headlight switch connector... post a WTB thread and someone will have one. As for the connectors, I forget the part numbers but they are available via NAPA and others. Best thing though is to just buy a new bulkhead connector kit.
 
dadsbee said:
Headlight switch connector... post a WTB thread and someone will have one. As for the connectors, I forget the part numbers but they are available via NAPA and others. Best thing though is to just buy a new bulkhead connector kit.
Click to expand...
Thanks much
 
I used the Packard 56 style connectors. Originals are 58, but harder to come by, and I like the 56 style better anyway. The 58 socket uses the rolled over edge that pushed down on each side of the mail terminal. The 56 socket has the front part folded over to push up on the terminal.
This is some good pictures: The 58 is halfway down the page.
https://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/_packard_terminals.asp

I didn't need a bunch (could have bulk ordered (300+ quantity) from an electrical supply store like Mouser to save maybe a dime each), so I just got them off Amazon.
The store/brand is Clipsandfastners Inc. The terminals are tin plated and I think original spec thickness metal. Be careful of some of the cheap ones that use a thinner metal, they don't hold a crimp.
Looked it up:
www.amazon.com/Packard-Female-16-14-Terminals-2965867
$15 / per 25 connectors.
 
451Mopar said:
I used the Packard 56 style connectors. Originals are 58, but harder to come by, and I like the 56 style better anyway. The 58 socket uses the rolled over edge that pushed down on each side of the mail terminal. The 56 socket has the front part folded over to push up on the terminal.
This is some good pictures: The 58 is halfway down the page.
https://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/_packard_terminals.asp

I didn't need a bunch (could have bulk ordered (300+ quantity) from an electrical supply store like Mouser to save maybe a dime each), so I just got them off Amazon.
The store/brand is Clipsandfastners Inc. The terminals are tin plated and I think original spec thickness metal. Be careful of some of the cheap ones that use a thinner metal, they don't hold a crimp.
Looked it up:
www.amazon.com/Packard-Female-16-14-Terminals-2965867
$15 / per 25 connectors.
Click to expand...
Do these fit in all of the connectors (i have bulkhead covered)? most of mine are corroded and I'd rather just replace. thx
 
Just do one or two at a time...
beerestoration2017 1365.JPG
 
If
TexasRoadRunner68 said:
Do most of you guys fix the stock harness or gut the whole thing and replace it? My car has been off the road for 34 years sitting in a field. Once the motor is finished and I get floors in it, it’ll be time to start on this stuff. My dad has used the factory harnesses in his 60s Toronado, eldorado and my brothers jeep trucks with pretty good results…however for those vehicles reproduction parts are more scarce. I know the insulation ages, but is it worth testing first or just replace it? The last thing I want is a fire. I do plan on doing power tour at some point in this once it’s road worthy, so reliability is important.

Would installing a painless harness be a better choice for my application? Or is there another brand people prefer a true reproduction with a more factory look. Clearly I’m not going for all stock…and the car will be driven a good bit.
Click to expand...
if your harness has not been butchered, melted, or eaten by rodents just do a thorough check on the connecters. You should be fine. I went with a stock reproduction harnesses from M&H electric, but still inspected those pretty closely. My original harnesses were pretty bad
 
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