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Ticking/knocking after warm up

Oil pressure does rise when I rev it. Oil change recently. Lucas 10W40, Wix filter.
When you rev it , hot at idle - Goes from 20 psi to ?

Also if your concerned about metal shavings or

You need to cut open your oil filter and spread out the paper element and see
 
The sound is sort of centralized but difficult to differentiate top/bottom of engine. I’ve checked lifters passenger side via pushrod check. But this is when the engine is cool and the issue isn’t evident at that temp. I’ll check other side when I get the chance.
so you get the sound when warm and sitting in the driveway so its all the time when warm?
 
Just spitballing here, if all reg. avenues turn up nothing

could be a worn rocker/s or rocker shaft/s hard to see without taking off
excessive slop/play, wear

bent or extremely worn pushrod
(will sometime help make a tick like that, more rare)

loose or cracked flexplate if it's an automatic,
the cracks separate/open more when warm
(more rare, like a ticking noise, some sound like a bearing going bad)

Hydraulic cam collapsed/failing lifter possibly too
really hard to tell until you turn the engine over, to each specific valve
& check each rockers play, wiggle & push up & down, even side to side
if it's loose, it could be that lifter (or rocker & /or shaft wear)
as they are at the bottom of the camshafts lift/base circle
check the intake rocker while that cylinders exhaust valve is closing
& visa versa check the exhaust when that cylinders intake valve is closing

good luck
 
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wish you could do a video of it,that would help alot. Just tell TJ to come to rochester to visit :lol:
 
When you rev it , hot at idle - Goes from 20 psi to ?

Also if your concerned about metal shavings or

You need to cut open your oil filter and spread out the paper element and see
You all are very helpful and I’m feeling much more confident that nothing too devastating is going on. But before I get too confident here is a video of the oil pressure gauge at idle and when I bump the gas.

 
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If possible do a phone recording after its warm and making noise.
Hold the phone around the valve covers and then hold it under the pan area.
Post the recording.
Not every time but it may be possible to narrow the problem area down.
20lbs at warm idle is not bad for a stock worn pump and engine.
If you think the sound is up top pull the valve covers and have a look.
Here’s what she sounds like upon initial startup.


And here’s when she’s warmed up.
 
wish you could do a video of it,that would help alot. Just tell TJ to come to rochester to visit :lol:
I posted a couple of videos. TJ…world is unbelievably small. I went back to an old video he sent me of him backing your car up the driveway. It was at that point I knew it was you LOL.
 
Here’s what she sounds like upon initial startup.


And here’s when she’s warmed up.

I know a video on here is iffy as far as sound quality. The top end to me sounds pretty loose,
If it was my engine at this point I would pull the valve covers and distributor and drive gear.
Ck. Lifter preload after looking over the rocker assemblies and push rods.
Drill and hex shaft test of the oil pump make sure to rotate the crank by hand and check oiling to both sides. Others may have more ideas but thats were i would start.
 
Yep, it's time to identify the exact source(s) of the noise.
Take a rubber hose and put one end to your ear and run the other end over the engine till you find the source.
 
I know a video on here is iffy as far as sound quality. The top end to me sounds pretty loose,
If it was my engine at this point I would pull the valve covers and distributor and drive gear.
Ck. Lifter preload after looking over the rocker assemblies and push rods.
Drill and hex shaft test of the oil pump make sure to rotate the crank by hand and check oiling to both sides. Others may have more ideas but thats were i would start.
By "drill and hex shaft" are you referring to operating the oil pump via drill motor through the distributor hole with some type of flat blade attachment? It has what appears to be the original solid rocker assemblies. Where should the oil be evident upon spinning the pump?
 
Take a rubber hose and put one end to your ear and run the other end over the engine till you find the source.
I've used a stethoscope or a screwdriver in the past. Definitely adding this method to my toolbox. Thank you.
 
By "drill and hex shaft" are you referring to operating the oil pump via drill motor through the distributor hole with some type of flat blade attachment? It has what appears to be the original solid rocker assemblies. Where should the oil be evident upon spinning the pump?
Its a 5/16 size hex shaft.
You prob can find a length of stock at napa ect. Or order one from summit / jegs.
Pump rotates counter clockwise so a reversible drill is needed.
If all is good , oil flows through the rocker shafts as long as they are installed correct.
At TDC it (should oil the right side 1st, then after rotating the crank clockwise by hand slowly you should start to see oil to the left shaft.
Do you have a service manual? They are a big help.
Check your rockers / shafts for signs of heat , bluing ect.
Just me, but from what I heard on the video I would waste a set of gaskets and see what's up.
 
When the engine warms up, snug up on the exhaust bolts to see if theres any difference.
 
Sounds like possibly an exhaust leak to me also although it could just be the recording and iPad playback. They also often do go away as motor warms up but it sounds a little too rapid for an exhaust leak to me which often just affects one cylinder.

Any chance it has a solid lifter cam in it?

20 psi at hot weather, hot engine is not unusual. Oil pressure response looks pretty normal to me.
 
It is so hard to diagnose an engine noise via a phone recording. It never sounds quite the same as live.

This started with an oil pump recommendation. I don't think that is the culprit and would look for an exhaust leak and at the valvetrain as suggested. I have a couple of engines that run on 20-30 psi at idle and then crank up to 50 or so at throttle., and they are fine. One, a used short block I picked up cheap, has been running like that for 20 years.
 
That sounds like valvetrain to me. Ok, $10 says lifter collapse(s).
 
Hearing that second video with sound
it sounds like exhaust to me too
 
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