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Time for a new carb. Advice?

A 383 will wind on out to 5500 no problem at all. Mine with factory hp cam in my last car seemed to go to more like 5700 before it was done. I was running a 4 speed and 3.23s in that car. Yours should pull up there plenty quick with the 3.91.

Do you have headers or manifolds?
 
A 383 will wind on out to 5500 no problem at all. Mine with factory hp cam in my last car seemed to go to more like 5700 before it was done. I was running a 4 speed and 3.23s in that car. Yours should pull up there plenty quick with the 3.91.

Do you have headers or manifolds?
Manifolds.
 
4500rpms is kissing the red line so as a non-race driver why would I opt for a carb with features that don't even come into play until there? Honest question. Seems pointless for my driving needs, no?
Yes you're right. I was not trying to tell you your rpm range. just throwing out some information. closer to 4000-4500 rpms to start making more power might be more accurate for the bigger carb to make a difference.
 
You might just find a counterfeit.

As somebody that has actually ran several carbs on a 383, a 3310 750 will work like magic. There I said it. So will a factory 750 avs. I’m sure the avs2 in 800 will be fine.

Only mopar guys hand wring about carb size. Running tiny straw like heads and are paralyzed at the thought they will lose throttle response. Meanwhile in chebbyland, they slap a 750 on a 350 and not even bat an eye. But yeah, a 3310 will rip from off idle to redline.
Show us your dyno, runs using all three choices, or flow velocity calcs, rather than "I'm sure the 800CFM AVS will be fine"....based on what?? A seat of the pants guesstimate? What if it it isn't correct?...are you willing to buy the wrong carb for the OP?? We're talking Mopar...not GM...again, no real figures....just guesstimate on what someone else did.... typical case of apples and oragnes...unrelated comparisons....
BOB RENTON
 
Manifolds.

It might not pull up that high and use the extra cfm much with manifolds. Would be nice if somebody in your area had a carb or two to try out. Some headers help hp more than others. Most give you big gains in torque.
 
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Show us your dyno, runs using all three choices, or flow velocity calcs, rather than "I'm sure the 800CFM AVS will be fine"....based on what?? A seat of the pants guesstimate? What if it it isn't correct?...are you willing to buy the wrong carb for the OP?? We're talking Mopar...not GM...again, no real figures....just guesstimate on what someone else did.... typical case of apples and oragnes...unrelated comparisons....
BOB RENTON

My real world experience, as always, outweighs any and all useless subterfuge you put out there. You always speak in high minded circle talk, void of any useful knowledge. It’s obvious to anyone with a functioning brain what different size carbs do in these engines the very first trip out. You offer zero in any category here, as per your typical vanity projects that are always on display.

I have for years checked changes against either gas purchased, e.t., or yes seat of the pants. No, I don’t have a pile of records from 20 years ago or whenever I might’ve done a given mod. I do know what I ended up finding that works. It’s just something I know, my memory is certainly better than a blow hard who lives to come on a message board and spread discord. I don’t waste my brain power on that tripe.

I’m actually starting to doubt you were an engineer and even might not own a car. It’s beyond pathetic when you take down threads with your verbose, yet substance light posts. You can go plug whatever carb, plugs, cam or anything else on your car. This man asked a question, I’ll continue to give my real world experience that directly applies.
 
To the OP.
Dont stare blindly at the cfm. Choose size in where you live in Rpm when you drive. Especially size of the primary venturi.

Check my thread, those tests were done on a 413:
My Carburetor journey.
 
A few of you guys are overshooting the target by a lot here. I’m not looking for the best best best application here and I’m sure as hell not going to dyno this motor. Every time I turn a wrench a new thread comes loose. It’s tired. I just want to slap an appropriate carb on and call it a day. If I lose a little oomph it’s no big deal. Luckily my one friend in town has an extra 800 I’m going to attempt running for the next season. My new motor will be set up correctly with headers and all the cool stuff and then I will actually care more about a performance carb. But that’s a year or two away.
 
My real world experience, as always, outweighs any and all useless subterfuge you put out there. You always speak in high minded circle talk, void of any useful knowledge. It’s obvious to anyone with a functioning brain what different size carbs do in these engines the very first trip out. You offer zero in any category here, as per your typical vanity projects that are always on display.

I have for years checked changes against either gas purchased, e.t., or yes seat of the pants. No, I don’t have a pile of records from 20 years ago or whenever I might’ve done a given mod. I do know what I ended up finding that works. It’s just something I know, my memory is certainly better than a blow hard who lives to come on a message board and spread discord. I don’t waste my brain power on that tripe.

I’m actually starting to doubt you were an engineer and even might not own a car. It’s beyond pathetic when you take down threads with your verbose, yet substance light posts. You can go plug whatever carb, plugs, cam or anything else on your car. This man asked a question, I’ll continue to give my real world experience that directly applies.
Well stated, but sometimes you just need some background information to fill in the gaps.
What Is A Cerebral Narcissist? 9 Signs To Spot One | mindbodygreen
 
The Edelbrock AVS2 is basically a repop of the Thermoquad. Chrysler used these on everything from 318 to 440, so they are pretty forgiving. The secondary air valve responds to however much air the engine can pump, dependant on displacement.
Except that the only common feature is the "adjustable" air valve opening adjustment...they do not share any others features other than they WERE made by Carter and the AVS II is not a spread bore, metering is similar but not interchangeable. The T-Quad was based roughly on the GM Q-jet, which was also made by Carter for Rochester, under license...small primary-large secondary bore design. IMO.....stay with the original Mopar design and size......
BOB RENTON
 
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It’s a Brawler 850. Damnit.
If it hasn't been too tinkered with, I'd buy it. I put an 850 annular QF on my brother's 383 4 spd 391 Charger.. performs flawlessly.
My daughter races a 383 with my flowed 930 on it, I wish I could say it's too big, but I can't.
 
My real world experience, as always, outweighs any and all useless subterfuge you put out there. You always speak in high minded circle talk, void of any useful knowledge. It’s obvious to anyone with a functioning brain what different size carbs do in these engines the very first trip out. You offer zero in any category here, as per your typical vanity projects that are always on display.

I have for years checked changes against either gas purchased, e.t., or yes seat of the pants. No, I don’t have a pile of records from 20 years ago or whenever I might’ve done a given mod. I do know what I ended up finding that works. It’s just something I know, my memory is certainly better than a blow hard who lives to come on a message board and spread discord. I don’t waste my brain power on that tripe.

I’m actually starting to doubt you were an engineer and even might not own a car. It’s beyond pathetic when you take down threads with your verbose, yet substance light posts. You can go plug whatever carb, plugs, cam or anything else on your car. This man asked a question, I’ll continue to give my real world experience that directly applies.
TRIPE!!! WHAT A HOOT......Just because YOU do not understand the terminology, I suggest that you LEARN THE TERMINOLOGY AND THEORY AND PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS OF HOW A CARBURETOR INDUCTION SYSTEM OPERATES, to understand and it's not based on some unspecified magazine article(s) and not on hearsay. Correct application of a carburetor intake manifold system, in fact how an internal combustion engine operates, just didn't happen by accident, but thru sound engineering principles and practices and definitely not on advertising, whose sole function is to get you to spend your money on their product.
BTW.....NEVER DOUBT MY CREDITIBILITY, experience or education....it's extensive.......I invite you to PM me with your questions....and review my Photo Garage: RJ's Toy, see my original RS23V0A****** 1970 GTX....one of the original 350 six barrel, 4 speed cars built, out of the 678 built with the V code engine.......I await your response.......
BOB RENTON
 
If it hasn't been too tinkered with, I'd buy it. I put an 850 annular QF on my brother's 383 4 spd 391 Charger.. performs flawlessly.
My daughter races a 383 with my flowed 930 on it, I wish I could say it's too big, but I can't.
No mods?
 
Hell, I ran a Edelbrock 500 on my 451 stroker 5 speed during a 5,000 mile round trip during a Hot Rod Power Tour.
Quick throttle response. Yes was weak on top end but for regular driving it did the job.
It's all in what you want.Me, I would never use a holley anything. Not that there is anything wrong with them.
Just not for me.
This is like what oil should I run? Everyone has their own preference.
Not trying to be a smart ***.Just saying..
 

Advice/opinion for @DynaBro

Cubic inches x rpm x VE / 3456 = CFM

383 x 6,500 x 0.80 / 3456 = 576

You don't need a LARGE CFM carburetor.

I picked 6,500 rpm as a round number because this is approximately where a lot of aftermarket 383 intakes tested by Hot Rod hit max horsepower.

You will also need to make sure your aftermarket intake manifold / aftermarket carburetor set-up combination is going to work/fit/mate with your stock fresh air system; assuming it's stock. That is, the overall height.
 
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