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Time for a new carb. Advice?

DeltaV said:
Advice/opinion for @DynaBro

Cubic inches x rpm x VE / 3456 = CFM

383 x 6,500 x 0.80 / 3456 = 576

You don't need a LARGE CFM carburetor.

I picked 6,500 rpm as a round number because this approximately where a lot of aftermarket 383 intakes tested by Hot Rod hit max horsepower.

You will also need to make sure your aftermarket intake manifold / aftermarket carburetor set-up combination is going to work/fit/mate with your stock fresh air system; assuming it's stock. That is, the overall height.
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This is exactly in line with my thoughts. Big carb isn't going to do much for me. However the 850 is the one I have the fastest access to and a very good price on. Would rather go with the AVS2. Going to wait and see if they offer a sale next week.
 
It is wrong to claim the AVS2 is a 'rebop' of the TQ. Totally different. TQ has triple primary booster design, AVS2 does not. AVS2 has venturiis with a booster in the secondaries; TQ has no sec venturiis, just discharge tubes.
 
DynaBro said:
A few of you guys are overshooting the target by a lot here. I’m not looking for the best best best application here and I’m sure as hell not going to dyno this motor. Every time I turn a wrench a new thread comes loose. It’s tired. I just want to slap an appropriate carb on and call it a day. If I lose a little oomph it’s no big deal. Luckily my one friend in town has an extra 800 I’m going to attempt running for the next season. My new motor will be set up correctly with headers and all the cool stuff and then I will actually care more about a performance carb. But that’s a year or two away.
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Then it is a no-brainer. Slap on the 650 AVS2 with a Eddy 9266 gasket for heat protection. A very forgiving combo for the old engine. :thumbsup:
 
I think the 4777 is a really nice choice for your car and short term goals. I would consider fixing it. Holley probably used that base on half the carburetors they’ve built since forever. You could probably come up with a suitable used one for pretty cheap.
 
DynaBro said:
How come no one mentions the Edelbrock Performer 750?
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The 750 Performer is fine. BUT the newer AVS2 is more refined.Smoother transition from part throttle.
I did the swap on my 472 Hemi car from the 750 to the 800 AVS2. A real life test.The 750 Performer always had a slight stumble and a surge.(Best way for me to describe) Even playing with jets and rods.After switching to the 800 AVS2 that was all gone.A few adjustments and I was happy with the results right out of the box.
Over the years I like to experiment with different combos.Beats being bored.

IMG_2863.jpg
 
AVS2 is a very nice carb and user friendly. It will run good our of the box with factory needles and jets. Make sure your fuel pressure is not any higher than around 5psi. As far as cfm...go with the 650 if you are just cruising around the street.
 
Got my guy at local franchise that will remain unnamed to price match Walmart’s super low priced counterfeit Alibaba sourced AVS2! The system let him! Walked out with a fresh legit one for like $350.
 
every edelbrock i put on i always lean out the cruise mode with the metering rods I try to go up 2 sizes if not surging your good. better gas mileage and the plugs stay nice and clean.
 
I don't like the 650 avs carbs on a 383, even totally stock. I would shift at 6200rpm with an 800 avs on 383ci, the 650 made it a bit wheezy at higher revs. It comes down to what performance you seek. 383's are fun to rev, and a four speed makes for a good experience. Why choke it with low cfm?

If I had a cheap 850 brawler laying around I would consider running that, but that's about the most cfm I could justify on a stock 383. I do like the brawler series.
 
I just keep making mistakes. Nothing attaches. Didn’t even consider fuel lines and throttle linkage. Truck blew up. Knew the water pump job I did wasn’t perfect and that awful thermostat o ring blew. So my truck is toast and I can’t get any of this carb stuff to line up. I’m so ******* mentally worn out right now. I just want to drive the damn car I paid fifty ******* grand for and now snow is coming. **** this.
 
Yep. Welcome to the hobby. If you don't like working on cars, this hobby might not be for you. If you do like working on cars, you'll still get pissed from time to time. It'll pass. Come back to it in a day or two.
 
BSB67 said:
Yep. Welcome to the hobby. If you don't like working on cars, this hobby might not be for you. If you do like working on cars, you'll still get pissed from time to time. It'll pass. Come back to it in a day or two.
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I simply don’t have enough time left for all these setbacks. I need to get the car moved into the house garage like yesterday and now who knows how long it will be before I get it running. Stupid Holley Chinese crap hardware got me here. I don’t even know how to get fuel lines for this. I have no idea.
 
DynaBro said:
I just keep making mistakes. Nothing attaches. Didn’t even consider fuel lines and throttle linkage. Truck blew up. Knew the water pump job I did wasn’t perfect and that awful thermostat o ring blew. So my truck is toast and I can’t get any of this carb stuff to line up. I’m so ******* mentally worn out right now. I just want to drive the damn car I paid fifty ******* grand for and now snow is coming. **** this.
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Sorry to hear of your difficulties.......but.....one: you get what you pay for...and quality and functionality not withstanding, fit and correct hook up and attachment points are fundamental. Two: these aspects are based on sound ENGINEERING PRINCIPLES and requirements not on price or "wants" alone...check dimensions and clearances ahead of time...... And third: THINK B4 making any hasty impulse influenced based decision..... Retro fitting a major component can be involved b4 hand taking ALL factors involved b4 proceedingl.....emphasizing the phrase: "haste makes waste"......just my opinion of course.....
BOB RENTON
 
RJRENTON said:
Sorry to hear of your difficulties.......but.....one: you get what you pay for...and quality and functionality not withstanding, fit and correct hook up and attachment points are fundamental. Two: these aspects are based on sound ENGINEERING PRINCIPLES and requirements not on price or "wants" alone...check dimensions and clearances ahead of time...... And third: THINK B4 making any hasty impulse influenced based decision..... Retro fitting a major component can be involved b4 hand taking ALL factors involved b4 proceedingl.....emphasizing the phrase: "haste makes waste"......just my opinion of course.....
BOB RENTON
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WHAT DID I ******* PAY FOR BOB? IS 50K NOT ENOUGH MONEY TO ASSUME A VEHICLE WON'T FALL APART PECE BY ******* PIECE THE FIRST MONTH YOU OWN IT? SAVE YOUR ******* RETARDED BOOMERISMS.
 
So many “professionals” out there jack these cars around and it can be really hard to find all their mistakes at once. The more you drive, the more bubbles to the surface. It’s taken three years of my free time to unwind all the dumb stuff on my latest car. I still talk to the guy I bought it from and he can’t believe what he paid a local shop to do. Stick with it, the payoff is worth it. I can cruise down the road as fast as I care to, ac on, radio playing, wipers there if I get caught out. Lights work. Engine smooth. Brakes good now. All things I couldn’t say on day one.
 
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