Time slip2+sec [email protected]*EDIT ordered wideband O2 system!

[1967coronet440]

View attachment 678525

Wookie, and myself are both using the competition engineering antiroll bar in conjunction with the street lynx. Helps launch that beast straight

 

[biomedtechguy]

Wookie, and myself are both using the competition engineering antiroll bar in conjunction with the street lynx

I thought you were asking about which antiroll bar at one point? I've been discussing this long enough for you to have asked, got an answer that I missed, and installed it...It helps me pass the time between "I have some choices" and "thinking I have made a decision" to "I finally have the money to do ______" Lol.
Thanks guys!
I have already decided on a triangulated rear suspension, and it will come down to another conversation with Carl Gerst, the folks at Reilly Motor Sports, and probably one more thread on the forum as to which one of the two I get. The reason for not doing a true parallel 4 link, with a Watts or Panhard bar is that I plan on keeping the factory style fuel tank, which my understanding would have to be removed for either a Watts or Panhard bar to fit.

 

[PRHeads]

As for what clutch....... that’s a conversation you’d want to be having with the supplier of the clutch.
Discuss what you’re doing, things you’d like to try, etc...... see what they suggest.

And, to be fair....... my predictions aren’t always accurate on things I’ve never tried...... like that clutch tamer.
Maybe it’ll be the answer for you.

If you’re only trying for high 12’s, I think with some tuning and more practice you can get there.

 

[1967coronet440]

I thought you were asking about which antiroll bar at one point? I've been discussing this long enough for you to have asked, got an answer that I missed, and installed it...It helps me pass the time between "I have some choices" and "thinking I have made a decision" to "I finally have the money to do ______" Lol.
Thanks guys!
I have already decided on a triangulated rear suspension, and it will come down to another conversation with Carl Gerst, the folks at Reilly Motor Sports, and probably one more thread on the forum as to which one of the two I get. The reason for not doing a true parallel 4 link, with a Watts or Panhard bar is that I plan on keeping the factory style fuel tank, which my understanding would have to be removed for either a Watts or Panhard bar to fit.

I was asking at the time of our PM, since then my build went from a pro touring to a drag car lol. I linked up with wookie and picked his brain on how to launch the triangular 4 link in a straight line and he recommended the ARB, after that and my own research I went out and got one. For your application I don’t think you will need it. I would strongly consider an upgrade to the crusader line of Viking shocks for the rear instead of the standard warrior line if I were you though.

 

[biomedtechguy]

I would strongly consider an upgrade to the crusader line of Viking shocks for the rear instead of the standard warrior line if I were you though.

I will look at the Viking double adjustable shocks I put on the front for what "level" they are. All I know without looking is they were around $320 per pair. As far as the rear coil overs go, I knew that I would want whatever is best, and that is why I only got the Competition Engineering CEE-2730 for the rear for now for my stock leaf springs, the shocks I bought were gently used from a forum member, because they would give me something to work with until I can get the triangulated rear suspension, and not have thrown money away on shocks that would be replaced.

 

[LemonWedge]

I didn’t read through the entire thread, but I have a tip that will help a ton..... LOSE THE RADIALS. They just aren’t suited to clutch cars. If you do get them to hook, it’ll promptly break something. You need to arm yourself with a set of bias ply stickies like some Hoosier QuickTime Pros or MT ET Street R Bias Plys.

And this comes from a guy that loves my M/T ProBracket Radial slicks.... (I run an automatic with the full Calvert setup)

 

[biomedtechguy]

LOSE THE RADIALS.

Yeah, so you are the first to suggest a different tire, and I appreciate that. I switched from T/A Radials (which REALLY gave no traction) to the Toyo Proxes TQ drag radials when I went from the stock steel 15" Rallye wheels to my 17" aluminum Rallye wheels. I was looking for tires that I could pull double duty with.
I have found a 345/45/17 that I think will fit, give me some more sidewall, which I am thinking would help reduce the shock on the tire.
If I had a pair of wheels and tires dedicated to the race track, I'm sure that would help too.
Still, it would be nice to make the most of what I have, in a "run what ya brung" kinda way.
I looked at the MT ET Street R (separate section from the MT ET Street R Radials) and there are some that will fit a 17" wheel. I wouldn't trust them in the rain like my Toyo Proxes TQ drag radials, but as track tires I would give them a try!

 

[dvw]

I agree with the bias slick. My 360 Challenger has been 12.52@110 with a pinion snubber using dead stock suspension, 9x28 M/T .
Doug

 

[383man]

The 105 mph is good for easy 12's with the suspension working good and hooking the car. I went 12.80's @ 104 in a friends 340 Duster when I drove it for him. My old 4 speed Dart used to run 11.90's at 112 mph and I remember it running 12.50's @ 107 when I first raced it. I agree to go to a Bias tire as many stick racers tell me radials just don't work good on stick cars. I ran 4.56's when I raced my 4 speed 340 Dart years ago with a 28.5 tire. And I like to put the gas pedal to the floor when I let my clutch out on my stick shift cars. I don't like riding the clutch as that's hard on the clutch. I just ran a stock leaf springs and a pinion snubber on my old 4 speed Dart when I raced it. Myself I would us more gear in your car and switch to the bias tire so you can let the clutch out and put the gas pedal to the floor. My car would spin the slick about a half turn and then hook and go. Its tuff to launch heavy stick car with not enough gear. You either have to ride the clutch some or spin the tire or break something. I like to put the gas pedal to the floor when I let the clutch out but you need more gear to do that which is what I would do if it was my car. You can get away on the launch with less gear in an auto car but not so much in a stick car uless you ride the clutch a good bit which I don't like to do. Good luck , Ron

 

[biomedtechguy]

you need more gear

I went from a 3.54 to the 4.10 in it now.
For the last 5 years I've only been to the track about 3 times a year, so I have to stay with the 4.10. Also I don't want to have to shift to 5th to make the distance of a 1/4 mile, and I think a higher gear than the 4.10 gear that's in it may put me past my 6,200 RPM rev limiter.
It seems like it is going to come down to some combination of reliable traction with just enough tire spin to keep from breaking something, and maybe some clutch slip too.

 

[69sunfireGTX]

I run the Toyo 345/40R17 drag radials on my 76 corvette with a TKO600 (street car) . No clutch tamer nor slipping the clutch on launch. I adjust the tire pressure to get just enough spin so I don't break everything. I heat the tires nice coming out of the water box, then dump the clutch at about 2500 rpm on launch. I am also still running the factory 3.08 rear diff in it. I can get some pretty consistent 1.66-1.69 60ft times out of it. My best 60ft is 1.59. I do have a little more HP than you but hopefully you get where I am going with this.

 

[biomedtechguy]

I definitely need more seat time at the track. The last time I went, I planned on making a run or 2, making adjustments to the compression and rebound on my Viking double adjustable front shocks, and was excited to see how the pinion snubber would work...until it bent, so 2 runs and I was out.

 

[67MPRFAN]

Play with the combo you try.adjusti ad your shocks

 

[BSB67]

Nice looking car. Stick shift makes it even better, imo.

I seem to be the guy that is always rowing in the opposite direction from everyone else. Honestly, I would stop spending $$ on suspension stuff, tune the car, practice driving it. Done.

If you don't know, there are two sides to the timeslip, as Budnicks pointed out. the horsepower side, (mph) and the suspension side (60 ft) Looking at your time slip and what you have indicated regarding current performance, it looks to me that both sides might benefit from some attention. Assuming pretty decent air in November down where you are at, the car could maybe go 108 or maybe 110, IMO. Car weight and compression ratio matter. Find/tune the additional 20+ hp, practice to a 1.95 60 ft, and you'll be in the 12.80s.

Me and 4 friends collectively probably have 500 passes in the 13.50 to 12.70 range. We all started higher and ended lower by simply tweaking and practice. I don't think anyone spent one $ on suspension, and generally had less motor than you, at least on paper.

Really glad to see that your going to the track. Have fun.

 

[PRHeads]

If you’re only trying for high 12’s, I think with some tuning and more practice you can get there.

I seem to be the guy that is always rowing in the opposite direction from everyone else. Honestly, I would stop spending $$ on suspension stuff, tune the car, practice driving it. Done.

 

[BSB67]

Guess I didnt read all the posts very well.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Nice looking car. Stick shift makes it even better, imo.

I seem to be the guy that is always rowing in the opposite direction from everyone else. Honestly, I would stop spending $$ on suspension stuff, tune the car, practice driving it. Done.

If you don't know, there are two sides to the timeslip, as Budnicks pointed out. the horsepower side, (mph) and the suspension side (60 ft) Looking at your time slip and what you have indicated regarding current performance, it looks to me that both sides might benefit from some attention. Assuming pretty decent air in November down where you are at, the car could maybe go 108 or maybe 110, IMO. Car weight and compression ratio matter. Find/tune the additional 20+ hp, practice to a 1.95 60 ft, and you'll be in the 12.80s.

Me and 4 friends collectively probably have 500 passes in the 13.50 to 12.70 range. We all started higher and ended lower by simply tweaking and practice. I don't think anyone spent one $ on suspension, and generally had less motor than you, at least on paper.

Really glad to see that your going to the track. Have fun.

All of the replies are appreciated!
I agree with everything you wrote BSB67
Certainly more track time will help.
I am really pissed about the way my carbs are giving me problems since I sent them to Promax, especially because I had them run them before sending them back, and I had them do everything because I didn't want to mess anything up and wanted them checked and "done right" even though I had rebuilt the center carb myself about 4 years ago.
I can't lay the blame firmly at their feet because I didn't flush the new fuel pump and lines, but I haven't had time to do it.
So I am going to do what I have to to see if I can resolve the carb issues, and then I'll check back in.
I have a benchmark from how they ran before, although I have never felt like they were 100% good, I had got them to a far better state than they were in when I got my car, and I could drive it and race it without feeling like I was leaving a lot of power on the table, and now post-Promax they are aggravating me so bad I can't enjoy driving, and going to the track is out of the question. If I can't get my carbs "right" to my satisfaction, I am going to a FiTech 3x2 or F&B 3x2 fuel injection system.
Thanks guys

 

[PRHeads]

Here’s a few more .02 worth........

I think the way the car would need to be driven out of the hole to get decent 60’ times, with its current chassis/clutch/trans situation....... a slightly smaller cam would work better.
Something that will have better grunt on the bottom after the clutch is all the way off the floor at like 2500 or so.
I’d do a small solid.

And with such a cam, the carbs could be almost 100% stock except for some minor jetting changes, along with the right secondary springs.

From the limited experiences I’ve been involved with where 6bbl carbs have been sent to a “pro” to be modified....... it seems they have been altered way too much for the application.
It’s like a whole bunch of unnecessary stuff gets done....... maybe to justify the expense.

I can tell you that on a 625hp FAST build, the carbs are really very close to stock.

 

[biomedtechguy]

a slightly smaller cam would work better.
Something that will have better grunt on the bottom after the clutch is all the way off the floor at like 2500 or so.
I’d do a small solid.

I appreciate that, but I hope to be able to get my 6XX HP and torque motor done in 2019, but regardless, a cam change is not in the cards.
Thanks for all of the carb commentary, a 625 HP FAST build sounds impressive!

 

[weedburner]

Don't be afraid of the ClutchTamer. It's probably the most cost effective manual trans tool you can add to improve your performance at the dragstrip, especially for beginners.

A ClutchTamer launch hits softer than an automatic, but that softer hit lasts longer. Basically it takes a clutch dump launch that's short duration but hits too hard, and consistently transforms that into a softer launch with more duration. That's what makes it so easy to run radials when the hit is controlled by a ClutchTamer. Another benefit is the softer launch is far less dependent on shock adjustment, so less likely to require expensive shocks to control the softer hit.

In the end, you get a consistent dead hook launch that's quicker and far less likely to break parts. If your clutch is already too aggressive for a hi-rpm clutch dump start, you don't need more clutch to start enjoying those benefits.

Grant