Time slip2+sec [email protected]*EDIT ordered wideband O2 system!

[biomedtechguy]

Don't be afraid of the ClutchTamer. It's probably the most cost effective manual trans tool you can add to improve your performance at the dragstrip, especially for beginners.

A ClutchTamer launch hits softer than an automatic, but that softer hit lasts longer. Basically it takes a clutch dump launch that's short duration but hits too hard, and consistently transforms that into a softer launch with more duration. That's what makes it so easy to run radials when the hit is controlled by a ClutchTamer. Another benefit is the softer launch is far less dependent on shock adjustment, so less likely to require expensive shocks to control the softer hit.

In the end, you get a consistent dead hook launch that's quicker and far less likely to break parts. If your clutch is already too aggressive for a hi-rpm clutch dump start, you don't need more clutch to start enjoying those benefits.

Grant

Thanks Grant.
Once I work through the carb issues that developed, I am getting one, for sure...
It's only $169!!
http://www.clutchtamer.com/

 

[biomedtechguy]

Don't be afraid of the ClutchTamer. It's probably the most cost effective manual trans tool you can add to improve your performance at the dragstrip, especially for beginners.

A ClutchTamer launch hits softer than an automatic, but that softer hit lasts longer. Basically it takes a clutch dump launch that's short duration but hits too hard, and consistently transforms that into a softer launch with more duration. That's what makes it so easy to run radials when the hit is controlled by a ClutchTamer. Another benefit is the softer launch is far less dependent on shock adjustment, so less likely to require expensive shocks to control the softer hit.

In the end, you get a consistent dead hook launch that's quicker and far less likely to break parts. If your clutch is already too aggressive for a hi-rpm clutch dump start, you don't need more clutch to start enjoying those benefits.

Grant

Thanks Grant.
Once I work through the carb issues that developed, I am getting one, for sure...
It's only $169!!
http://www.clutchtamer.com/

 

[Sweet5ltr]

This is a good application for a two step rev-limiter & clutch-tamer. Look at it this way, the Challenger M6 Hellcat makes over 600-rwhp from the factory, remember that fiasco when they were released, very few owners were able to even break into the 11.9X range while the 8HP90 cars were running nearly a full-second quicker.

You face the same issue, lots of displacement (additional torque) at low-rpm. I would try out the clutch-tamer, and move onto just making more power and bringing the torque peak higher. Going off the Wallace Racing calculator, a 3,800-lb car running 105-mph through the traps is making around 350 (fwhp). That's probably not far off NET horsepower readings for an factory cast iron-headed BBM.

 

[PRHeads]

As an example of tuning, and learning to drive it, along with some subtle tweaks to the combo, Mike Leyes runs an A12 car in the pure stock drags.
3900lbs plus, 4 speed, g70-15 bias plys, runs 12.50’s@112.

 

[biomedtechguy]

As an example of tuning, and learning to drive it, along with some subtle tweaks to the combo, Mike Leyes runs an A12 car in the pure stock drags.
3900lbs plus, 4 speed, g70-15 bias plus, runs 12.50’s@112.

My car is closer to an A12 than anything else. The "" is because of my respect and admiration for Ma Mopar and the whole concept of the A12. Take a B-Body, the best big block (440) you have that doesn't bring the cost and complexity of the 426 Hemi, top it off with an awesome 3x3 intake system, and throw a 4.10 in a Dana 60.
My 70 V-Code Roadrunner with the 4.10 I installed in the Dana 60 is pretty much the same thing. That is another reason why I should be in the 12s, IMO, because I'm not stock, and A12s can run 12s all day!
Thanks for the replies. Y'all are inspiring me to make the time to solve my damn carburetor problem

 

[biomedtechguy]

Also thinking about the recommendation that I replace the Purple Stripe cam which I think is a 292°/.509. I am having problems with off the line traction. If I were to take the advice (as I understand it) of the post about switching to a "smaller" solid camshaft, that would increase my low end torque, probably reduce my higher RPM power. Increasing my low end torque would make my traction problems worse! (Unless I roll out like I have tried so I could be consistent)

 

[1967coronet440]

My car is closer to an A12 than anything else. The "" is because of my respect and admiration for Ma Mopar and the whole concept of the A12. Take a B-Body, the best big block (440) you have that doesn't bring the cost and complexity of the 426 Hemi, top it off with an awesome 3x3 intake system, and throw a 4.10 in a Dana 60.
My 70 V-Code Roadrunner with the 4.10 I installed in the Dana 60 is pretty much the same thing. That is another reason why I should be in the 12s, IMO, because I'm not stock, and A12s can run 12s all day!
Thanks for the replies. Y'all are inspiring me to make the time to solve my damn carburetor problem

Solved your carb problem lol


http://www.fbthrottlebodies.com/products.htm

 

[1967coronet440]

Also thinking about the recommendation that I replace the Purple Stripe cam which I think is a 292°/.509. I am having problems with off the line traction. If I were to take the advice (as I understand it) of the post about switching to a "smaller" solid camshaft, that would increase my low end torque, probably reduce my higher RPM power. Increasing my low end torque would make my traction problems worse! (Unless I roll out like I have tried so I could be consistent)

Change the cam, you need to know exactly what Is in there. Although it does sound like a 292 you have no idea really. Ask one of the pros to spec a cam for you. You’ll be much happier!

 

[PRHeads]

The idea behind the smaller cam is to allow you to leave at a lower rpm and not have the motor bog.

To get an idea of where you are cam size wise in your combo, if you haven’t done it before, I’d suggest a compression test.

IMO, a 440-6, 4.10’s, headers, 509 cam....... should really be running more speed than 105-106.

If the compression test was on the low side, that might help explain the low-ish speeds.

 

[biomedtechguy]

The idea behind the smaller cam is to allow you to leave at a lower rpm and not have the motor bog.

Thanks!

 

[Sweet5ltr]

As an example of tuning, and learning to drive it, along with some subtle tweaks to the combo, Mike Leyes runs an A12 car in the pure stock drags.
3900lbs plus, 4 speed, g70-15 bias plus, runs 12.50’s@112.

They’re making a ‘little bit’ more power though, a full 7-mph difference, so it’s not really an ideal comparison. An increase of 7-mph is more like 60-75 additional horsepower. A12s ran a fairly wide LSA camshaft, and it was dual-pattern.

Best advice I can give you, is if you don't own an Wideband 02 gauge, install one. Tune it yourself at the track. AFR target should be somewhere around the mid-to-high 12s on pump gas for max power.

Bio, can you tell us more about your engine combination?

 

[biomedtechguy]

Wideband 02 gauge

I have asked about the maufacturer and model recommended on the forum. Ideally I would like a real-time dual band display with some kind of data recording so I can go back and look at the A/F ratio throughout the "driving event" like a 1/4 mile trip.
Suggestions are welcome!

can you tell us more about your engine combination?

That and then some: It's in my signature (I have to turn my phone sideways to see anybody's signature)
1970 V-Code Roadrunner. 71 440, 292° .509 Purple Stripe cam, CompCams flat tappet hyd. lifters, springs, 10° locks and retainers. 1978? 452 heads. 1 7/8" ceramic coated TTi headers, 4.10 Dana 60, Passon Performance a855 5 speed, Viking double adjustable front shocks, Competition Engineering rear shocks. Mancini Racing driveshaft loop. FBO ignition system, aluminum 6bbl intake and Promax modded Holley carbs, Promax upper and lower stainless braided fuel lines, Carter M6903 mech fuel pump.

Next time I get under the hood I can list vacuum and timing.

 

[Sweet5ltr]

I have asked about the maufacturer and model recommended on the forum. Ideally I would like a real-time dual band display with some kind of data recording so I can go back and look at the A/F ratio throughout the "driving event" like a 1/4 mile trip.
Suggestions are welcome!

Innovate Motorsports DLG-1
https://www.amazon.com/Innovate-Mot...pID=41AiukvAY1L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch


That and then some: It's in my signature (I have to turn my phone sideways to see anybody's signature)
1970 V-Code Roadrunner. 71 440, 292° .509 Purple Stripe cam, CompCams flat tappet hyd. lifters, springs, 10° locks and retainers. 1978? 452 heads. 1 7/8" ceramic coated TTi headers, 4.10 Dana 60, Passon Performance a855 5 speed, Viking double adjustable front shocks, Competition Engineering rear shocks. Mancini Racing driveshaft loop. FBO ignition system, aluminum 6bbl intake and Promax modded Holley carbs, Promax upper and lower stainless braided fuel lines, Carter M6903 mech fuel pump.

Next time I get under the hood I can list vacuum and timing.

Combination looks strong, the cylinder heads are holding you back considerably. Are you running an electric fan / mechanical fan / or a clutch fan? What other accessories, power steering / AC? Driveline should be making quite a bit more power to the ground, especially with a 5-speed manual transmission.

Okay, timing is going to be slightly different with an iron-headed motor, can't really give much insight on that, other than it's probably in the neighborhood of 36* - 38* total optimally. I wouldn't make many more changes, until you get a wideband and see what the engine is 'really doing' down the track.

 

[cdr]

If you want a cam,PRHEADS is who you should deal with,he sells cams, he knows what he is talking about !!!!!!

 

[weedburner]

Thanks Grant.
Once I work through the carb issues that developed, I am getting one, for sure...
It's only $169!!
http://www.clutchtamer.com/

Satisfaction guaranteed, I'll buy it back if for any reason things don't work out.
Grant

 

[biomedtechguy]

Seriously guys, I think I am going to be able to pay for my new motor in the Spring. It really depends on one particular job I quoted. Otherwise I have to save up or make another big pop.
I am keeping the cam I have in it. The only thing I am strongly considering is putting the TF240s on that I am going to get anyway. The few parts I need that IQ52 listed are not expensive, and I think it would really keep it interesting if I have to wait longer than I'd like to for my "big build". I also bought a single 2bbl Nitrous Express spray plate, that fits GREAT, and that could make things interesting, but I would keep it to a small shot for sure, and I really like their SAFE fuel cell:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...H_6fH_15V6qywRIgYjj1iNbol_WlQnxxoClGcQAvD_BwE
The thing is that before I do ANYTHING else, I need to get my carbs working right, or after having exhausted all possibilities give up and go 3x2 fuel injection or put my stock parts back in and make someone a killer deal on my Promax parts. I would send them back to Promax maybe before I do that, but I really think it's something "simple" like debris or adjustments, although I already tried making adjustments, I was in a hurry.

 

[beanhead]

Hey Bio, I don't think I knew it before but your 452 heads are un-ported? I bet with the switch to a nice flowing aftermarket head, you can smoke the the tires halfway down the track and still do easy 12s with your setup..

 

[biomedtechguy]

I pulled them off to have a local engine builder buddy check the original springs that were on them. When I got my car 5 years ago, it seemed like it wanted to pull hard, really hard as the RPMs climbed into the 4,*** but all of a sudden it would fall off. I had a "feeling" the springs were weak. The cam was asking for MORE RPMs! And I knew the 440 was good for it, and the 6bbl was too. So the springs were down on pressure both open and closed, and he swapped in the CompCams 911-16 springs, 748-16 retainers, and 627-16 locks. NIGHT AND DAY! From that point forward it pulls-HARD to around 6,200 so says the butt dyno...
I also got the CompCams 822-16 lifters because one of the ones that were in the car collapsed once when I missed a shift, it pumped back up after a minute, but on another occasion (before I changed out the hot mishmash that was my shifter) one collapsed and didn't pump back up.
When I got my FBO ignition system, I set my shift light at 5,800 and my rev limiter at 6,200.
TrickFlow 240s would WAKE UP THE BEAST! But I have to fix my carb problem

 

[PRHeads]

They’re making a ‘little bit’ more power though, a full 7-mph difference, so it’s not really an ideal comparison.

That’s part of my point.
It’s a basically stock a12 car running 112mph........ no headers, no big rumpy cam, no drag radial tires.
Looking at the OP’s combo in comparison, it’s a little bit of “what’s wrong with this picture”?
Hence, my comment about the 105-106 mph seeming a bit “off”.

 

[TetanusShot]

Not enough fuel pump, too small of fuel line, weak spark under load, or a combination of these is my guess.