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Tire and suspension question...

dont think they're boxed...

If they (the lower control arms) were 'boxed', you would have a flat piece of metal welded to the underside of the lower control arm itself...covering that space between the front channel and rear channel where the torsion bar adjuster bolt resides. It would likely have a hole in it just big enough to adjust that bolt.
 
If you do them both BEFORE pressing the car into service AND get it aligned before pressing it into service, it does not make a hill of beans difference which you do first.

Cool. ya it will be all aligned before it hits the road again.

If they (the lower control arms) were 'boxed', you would have a flat piece of metal welded to the underside of the lower control arm itself...covering that space between the front channel and rear channel where the torsion bar adjuster bolt resides. It would likely have a hole in it just big enough to adjust that bolt.

well, they're not boxed. how big of sway bar can i get before it messes up the LCA's? the current, stock sway bar measures 1.06.
 

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Budnicks! Can you please confirm for the car that handled like it was on rails - what size and brand wheels and tires were you running? If the tires were 15 inch I am surprised! I have upgraded everything on my car except have new .092" torsion bars with my current small block and only have stock rubber bushing struts and with my 15" radials it handles very well, but not like it's on rails. I'm interested in hearing more...

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The car was a 68 RR RM23 HT with all the parts previously mentioned & either BFG Radial TA's or BFG G-Force Comp TA's, the Comp TA's didn't last too long 235/60/15 & 275/50/15, but were far superior to the regular street radials, but the street radials worked very well for what the car is/was, same sizes I mentioned above/before P245/60/15 front & P295/50/15 rear, if you were to put it on a skid pad, I'm not sure what it would have done, maybe .85 G's guessing, but I'm positive it would be twice as good as OEM stock rubber bushings, stock A-Arm, stock sway bar front only, stock steering, stock 14" stuff... I guess what you think is "handles like it on rails"...LOL... It's not a ZO6 or Lambo if that's your point, but compared to the stock, body lean, front end push, rear drift & under-steer characteristics of the original suspension, even with decent 15" or 17" radial tires, in comparison it handled like it was on rails, compared the the crappy stock OEM parts & handling {for my purposes anyway}... I'm sure it would have done even better on 17"or 18"'s & super sticky tires, but I don't like the rough ride of the rubber-band tires {let alone wear & cost}, especially here where we have some rough roads, that will "bend the hell out of, a large diameter rim" & rubber-band no side wall tires.... Your car sounds like it still have far more OEM parts than I had on my old car or even have on my current car... On the old car the, Sub Frame Connectors, the MP tubular adjustable upper C/A's, adj. Dynamic Strut rods, Edelbrock Gas Shocks & Unisteer Rack & Pinion, made a world of differences {I will be using them on this car too}, let alone adding a larger 1-3/8" frt. & 1" rear sway bars, even with the orig. 0.90" Torsion bars, the car can be lower, with better center of gravity & is not compromising the alignment or ride quality, you can lay back the caster angle, to were it will track at higher speeds & handle much better, than with the OEM even with the Poly-graphite bushing {that help considerably over stock OEM rubber bushings, if you use the proper style LCA pins when installing them}, if you go with the 2" Magnumforce drop spindles, it could be even much better, with an even better Lower Center of Gravity... Good luck have fun that's what it's all about
 
Thanks for the info! The only thing I don't have on mine that you listed is the rack and pinion and adjustable strut rods. I have Magnumforce drop spindles and even a steering sector support from Firm Feel plus all the rest. I DID have Hotchkis adjustable strut rods for 500 miles when I had only installed Hotchkis UCA's and re-bushed the LCA with rubber and it made a really big difference in the solid feel of the front end. I liked the feel a lot. BUT - one of my mechanics saw those on there when I had him help with the brakes and he talked me into swapping back the strut rods to stock so there would be rubber instead of the solid heim joint, saying that he'd seen a few broken K-frames from doing that. Now that I have all the other goodies, I'm thinking about re-installing those heim joint strut rods.

Besides the feel, are their handling advantages for street use with those adjustable strut rods? Any drawbacks?

My car feels and handles great now. The only weak point I really feel could be lots better are the tires/wheels. I would like to test drive a car like mine with 17's to see how much different it feels. I hate the look of 17's on our cars though...

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dude...i stomp on the loud pedal every chance i get.... personally...i have a truck already,,,,and it rides JUST LIKE A TRUCK. when i get in the Road Runner...its like gettin in a cadillac. the Belvedere will be next to recieve the "Tpod front end rebuild" ...and ill use rubber. my buddy used poly and i really hate riding in that thing....its like riding in a cinder block with wheels ! but the call is yours of course. i also replaced the leaf spring bushings front and back....MAN , what a difference!

you wont be disapointed using the rubber bushings......i think if you use poly....youll be unhappy FO-SHO ! and DONT be surprised if I DO show up to get my damn Delmonicos.....whoa Bundy !

+1 on the rubber! You will be impressed how much better NEW rubber feels vs the old worn out rubber. Besides the harsher ride, I'm sure you've heard that poly bushings are notorious for squeaks and noise and you have to continuously grease them. RUBBER-RUBBER-RUBBER

Mar Par, as for the other stuff- I think your stock sway bar size is plenty good!
The rear sway from firm feel that is frame hung clamps with special connectors that sandwich between the axle and leafs. Also on both sides it has a U-channel that slips over the frame and requires drilling two holes on each side to secure it. No welding involved!

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I have no experience with the SS springs, but you can always change them last if you don't like the end result. The Bilsteins are not harsh at all and may work fine with those. If you have the stock snubber, keep it and see how it does. No need to change unless you want to. The adjustable threaded version allows you to get closer to the floor pan. The SS springs allow more clearance for this. On my car with the Hotchkis leafs (1" lower than stock) the adjustable barely fit and made a big BANG every time I went over a little bump. Changed back to the stock one and my issue went away. Mancini told me those are only for use with the SS springs if needed.
 
SOOOOO im going to knock the dust off this thread lol

i've been fighting oil pan gaskets and a rear main seal since the last posting so I havent been able to get to the suspension like i wanted to :angryfire: anyways, i got the leaks to a manageable level and i've been driving her every chance i get.

NOW...i changed out the Wide Oval G70-14's (yes, bias ply :icon_mrgreen:) for a set of radials (245 60-14's) that i had in storage, which I believe are on a 6" magnum 500 rim.

I put her down for the first time after the oil pan fiasco, and the front rims had a lot of neg camber where as the bias-plys looked relatively straight. I figured it was just the "new" tires. well, i drove her a bit and put her back up to tighten up the torsion bars (figured the shorter tire had an effect on the camber so lift it up a smidge). and i turned the torsion bar bolt to the right one full turn on the driver's side and a 1/4 turn on the pass side one. (the driver's tire was much further in at the top than the pass side)

of course, it looked a lot better when i dropped her down again; but then i drove it, and the neg camber didnt change much!! damn it!!!

not sure how many total turns are on the t-bar bolts currently, but im hoping that the t-bar bolts backed out a bit last season (and i haven't gone far enough tightening them) and it's not the LCA's that are worn out. im really not ready to tear into the front end of this car. i want to drive it!!! well, for a while before i know i have to work on her again!!

and as always, much obliged for any/all replies and comments...:headbang:
 
Mario......Matching/watching thread count/turns on the torsion bar adjusting bolts really won't do you much good. Especially if the bars are older or worn. My Roadrunners are 1/2" off from each other to make her sit level and they're brand new Firm Feel bars. You wanna match ride height. Below is out of the '69 Plymouth FSM for adjusting ride height, just in case you didn't have it. Below that is a link for a great article on Mopar Cast/Camber/Toe and some settings. Made a real big difference on my Coronet playing with the chart measurements in the article. I honestly would spend the $50-75 bucks for an alignment if you added new rubber and a different tire design on top of that. Just my 2 cents...If I were you, I would probably just sit down and have a few Leinnie's..screw it.

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http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/front-end-alignment.html
 
Mario......Matching/watching thread count/turns on the torsion bar adjusting bolts really won't do you much good. Especially if the bars are older or worn. My Roadrunners are 1/2" off from each other to make her sit level and they're brand new Firm Feel bars. You wanna match ride height. Below is out of the '69 Plymouth FSM for adjusting ride height, just in case you didn't have it. Below that is a link for a great article on Mopar Cast/Camber/Toe and some settings. Made a real big difference on my Coronet playing with the chart measurements in the article. I honestly would spend the $50-75 bucks for an alignment if you added new rubber and a different tire design on top of that. Just my 2 cents...If I were you, I would probably just sit down and have a few Leinnie's..screw it.

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http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/front-end-alignment.html

Thanks for the link and pics, Will. I have yet to put the new rubber (huh-huh) on the GTX yet, but it will be happening soon. I kinda figured the t-bars wouldn't be an exact science, but i was hoping to get it close.

I would love to sit back and have a Leine's and have the car aligned, but i havent found anyone 'round here that i would trust with her yet. there is one potential not to far from my house that im going to check out in two weeks and see what the guys says. ill report back.

Thanks Will
 
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