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To Tube or Not to Tube?

Polara Pat

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Location
Nelson, B.C.
We had some friends pass us on a set of 29x10.5W Hoosiers that were a bit ill fitting in their car but still brand new and work for us. We mounted them up and they were weeping a bit of air from the sidewalls. We have actually always run tubes in our slicks but folks I've talked to over the past couple of years feel it's redundant so I was tempted to lean this way. Unfortunately these Hoosiers need to be tubed. And on that note, if you're running tubes are you also using rim screws? Spinning a stem off seems like a bad time overall.
 
I run Hoosier 30 x 9 Radial slicks and mine are tubeless. And they hold air good as they dont drop any all summer unless I drop it at the track. Ron

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you must run rim screws without tubes, the rim
only needs to move a tad and your ripping out your valve stem, tubes are expensive nowadays.
my 65 blue dodge is tubelesd and I have to air them up atleast once a week, my hemi and black dodge both have tubes and all are screwed.
I hate having to air up the tires every week. What a PITA!
 
I have a set of 9x30 Hoosiers that are screwed and no tubes, and a set of 10.5x30 Hoosiers that aren't screwed and no tubes, and I don't have a problem with either set.
 
you must run rim screws without tubes, the rim
only needs to move a tad and your ripping out your valve stem, tubes are expensive nowadays.
my 65 blue dodge is tubelesd and I have to air them up atleast once a week, my hemi and black dodge both have tubes and all are screwed.
I hate having to air up the tires every week. What a PITA!

Did you mean to say that "you must run rim screws with tubes"?

I called Hoosier and they seemed to think that it was based on the condition of the rim and how the bead seats as well as what pressure you are running.

Having never run this combo I thought I would start at 11# and see if they hook.

I was really hoping to not run the wheel screws even though I'm using tubes.

Tough call.
 
When I was racing (been a few years) I always ran tubes and always screwed them to the wheels. Like was said, you don't want to spin the tire on the wheel and rip off the valve stem. With my M/T ET Radial Street slicks no tube is required, so no screws.
 
I run 10.5x31 M/T. No rim screws. With the tire laying on it's side I slathered dish soap on the inside of the side wall. Let it dry up for 1/2 hour. Flipped it over and did the other side. I used a soaked paper towel, heavy coat. My slicks leak very slowly. They will hold enough to keep the car up for months. I've found Goodyears generally leak the worst. with the same treatment they only hold for 3-4 weeks.
Doug
 
I run 10.5x31 M/T. No rim screws. With the tire laying on it's side I slathered dish soap on the inside of the side wall. Let it dry up for 1/2 hour. Flipped it over and did the other side. I used a soaked paper towel, heavy coat. My slicks leak very slowly. They will hold enough to keep the car up for months. I've found Goodyears generally leak the worst. with the same treatment they only hold for 3-4 weeks.
Doug

I just heard recently about the dish soap trick but thought is seemed hoaky. Good to know it works as a temporary bandaid for leaky sidewalls.
 
The old adage was, with tubes you run screws, But now, I think it depends on the rim, the with of the tires & whether they are moving on the rim or not {especially true}, the track prep & type of suspension to be able to actually fully hook & actually load the tire & wrinkle the sidewalls, even how much power your putting to the ground, will/can be the deciding factor to whether or not to have to screw the tire to the rim "on both sides of the wheels"... All my faster door slammers 7-8-9-10 sec cars, all had screws in the rims, but on my old street/strip 3520# 68 RR {N/A 9.77 @ 135mph - 8.58 @ 156mph w/300 shot of N20} I never ran screws on my Halibrand's & M/T Drag Radials, even with the Caltracs & really great track prep & bite, even when they were new, but one moved about 1/4" on the rim "one time" & only on one tire, I was trying some lower tire pressures, that didn't work very well... but my 23 T Altered had 15x33's Good years, than latter Hoosiers & both also had inner liners, tubes & screws, but it was going 190mph too.... opinions will vary vastly, I'm sure
 
The old adage was, with tubes you run screws, But now, I think it depends on the rim, the with of the tires & whether they are moving on the rim or not {especially true}, the track prep & type of suspension to be able to actually fully hook & actually load the tire & wrinkle the sidewalls, even how much power your putting to the ground, will/can be the deciding factor to whether or not to have to screw the tire to the rim "on both sides of the wheels"... All my faster door slammers 7-8-9-10 sec cars, all had screws in the rims, but on my old street/strip 3520# 68 RR {N/A 9.77 @ 135mph - 8.58 @ 156mph w/300 shot of N20} I never ran screws on my Halibrand's & M/T Drag Radials, even with the Caltracs & really great track prep & bite, even when they were new, but one moved about 1/4" on the rim "one time" & only on one tire, I was trying some lower tire pressures, that didn't work very well... but my 23 T Altered had 15x33's Good years, than latter Hoosiers & both also had inner liners, tubes & screws, but it was going 190mph too.... opinions will vary vastly, I'm sure

Holy crap you've had a lot of quick cars!!!

Lots of good info there. We mounted our 29/10.5Ws on 8" TTs, so a new clean rim with lots of bead pressure would probably be good depending on what pressure we decide to run but for peace of mind I think we're gonna screw 'em.
 
Did you mean to say that "you must run rim screws with tubes"?

I called Hoosier and they seemed to think that it was based on the condition of the rim and how the bead seats as well as what pressure you are running.

Having never run this combo I thought I would start at 11# and see if they hook.

I was really hoping to not run the wheel screws even though I'm using tubes.

Tough call.


YES, IF YOUR TUBELESS, not real necessary to run screws.on my 65 blue dodge, right now im rtubeless but run screws because of the hp level.

- - - Updated - - -

I hate screwing a perfectly good expensive wheel. Weld alumastars are like $492.00 each. my toes curl every time I have to put a drill bit into the wheel.
 
YES, IF YOUR TUBELESS, not real necessary to run screws.on my 65 blue dodge, right now im rtubeless but run screws because of the hp level.

- - - Updated - - -

I hate screwing a perfectly good expensive wheel. Weld alumastars are like $492.00 each. my toes curl every time I have to put a drill bit into the wheel.

I hear ya but I'm glad I did. I was running as little as 10.5 #s in our 10.5Ws this weekend on our new 8" Torque Thrusts and the tires looked like they were going to fall off just sitting in staging. Those tires have a true 12" of contact patch and the tech guy at Hoosier assured me that an 8" wheel would suffice. I'd say we're cutting it close.

Oh, did I mention that they hooked like a Mo-Fo. More on that later.
 
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