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Torque converter issues?

Christian-440

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Okay, this is a weird one. Chrysler is on standby right now waiting for the 440 to be done. (Might put a 413 in it just to get it going.) I wanted to get back to my first Dodge, my 1991 4x4 Dakota, when there's of course a new issue that I can't figure out for the life of me... The truck acts as if it's a manual without a clutch pedal. Put it in gear it jumps forward a few feet and dies. Only way to get it moving is a neutral drop from about 3,000 RPM. It's a 360 LA with a 4bbl carb, weiand intake, and VERY mild cam, might as well be stock. Transmission is a 46 or 47 RE I believe, whichever the Dakota would've came with. I tried adjusting the front band with no luck. Fluid is full, not over, and new. Transfer case is full on fluid. Truck will go into gear with the wheels off the ground, but if you hit the brakes it'll die. This is a new issue. It worked fine for the first few years of having it, then it started not wanting to idle in gear when hot, now it has this issue at all times. Hot or cold. I don't really have the money to throw at it right now, but I'd like to know what you guys think before I try to take it to a shop over the summer. I'd prefer to fix it myself if possible.
20231007_114325.jpg
(I know it's rough but it runs, and used to drive, great. Sounds real good too.)

Thank you for whatever input, anything is appreciated.
 
Converter possibly not coming out of lockup. Most likely 46RH if original.
 
Converter possibly not coming out of lockup. Most likely 46RH if original.
Is there any simple test for that or fix you can think of? What wires power the lockup maybe they need power, or maybe it's getting power and doesn't need it.... Thank you for the suggestion either way.
 
Do you have the oval 3 pin connector or round connector near the neutral safety switch?
 
Do you have the oval 3 pin connector or round connector near the neutral safety switch?
I believe it's a black round 3 pin connector up by the shift linkage on the transmission. might be the oval you're talking about though.
 
If it's the oval 3 pin it's the RH. The RE had the round connector. Either way, just a guess, but the overdrive/lockup solenoid could have failed which would require dropping the valve body to check and/or replace. While it's out I would do a thorough cleaning and rebuilding of the valve body. A new solenoid should be less than $50.
 
If it's the oval 3 pin it's the RH. The RE had the round connector. Either way, just a guess, but the overdrive/lockup solenoid could have failed which would require dropping the valve body to check and/or replace. While it's out I would do a thorough cleaning and rebuilding of the valve body. A new solenoid should be less than $50.
I'll look it over. Thank you!
 
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