Torque Converter Question

[Cyty Slykers]

After getting my 383 built (mild build) summer 2015 the engine shop suggested that I should get a 2000 stall torque converter which I done. Only putting 635 miles on the motor since the rebuild a week ago I started to hear rattling metal noises from the bell housing smh. Long story short my build was too much for the B&M torque master 2000 stall so now I’m trying to see what’s the right stall to go with.

68 Charger
727 TF
Dyno ratings:
Torque 381.4 @ 4413 rpm
HP 358.6 @ 5100 rpm

Comp cams xtreme energy
274/296, lift .488/.491

 

[Sweet5ltr]

Never trust an engine shop that recommends any B&M torque converter first of all. Second, you built a mild-performance engine that makes peak torque @ 4,400 RPM; why would anyone ever recommend a 2,000 RPM stall converter?! Look for a PTC / FTI / (any reputable race branded) 10" 3,000-3,500 flash stall speed converter. They can build you a converter that will drive like stock, meaning, it will be tight for daily driving (moving at red light without applying brakes) yet instantly flash to the stall speed when you apply WOT. Even my 9" FTI converter that flashes @ 4,500 RPM is tight driving around town, must hold the brakes at the light, shifts like stock going through the gears.

Also, don't forget installing a good transmission cooler if you don't have one already! (regardless of converter choice).

 

[Cyty Slykers]

Never trust an engine shop that recommends any B&M torque converter first of all. Second, you built a mild-performance engine that makes peak torque @ 4,400 RPM; why would anyone ever recommend a 2,000 RPM stall converter?! Look for a PTC / FTI / (any reputable race branded) 10" 3,000-3,500 flash stall speed converter. They can build you a converter that will drive like stock, meaning, it will be tight for daily driving (moving at red light without applying brakes) yet instantly flash to the stall speed when you apply WOT. Even my 9" FTI converter that flashes @ 4,500 RPM is tight driving around town, must hold the brakes at the light, shifts like stock going through the gears.

Also, don't forget installing a good transmission cooler if you don't have one already! (regardless of converter choice).

About an hr ago I contacted B&M for assistance and the rep said exactly what you said about the 2000 stall for my build. He also stated that a 3000 stall would probably be too much and he thinks the hole shot 2400 is suitable.

I just thinking about buying a transmission cooler after installing my engine and transmission in 2015 but didn’t pull the trigger due to not being sure if it was necessary.

 

[rlem1977]

Call B&M tech. dept., or TCI, Dynamic Converters, or a reputable trans. shop near you that deals with performance. They will ask you the following:

Engine hp & torq, Cam duration @ .050", Tire size and diameter, Rear end gearing, plus, what your intentions are with the car.

With that information they can suggest the type and stall for a converter. I believe the factory 727 TF converter had a stall of 1800 - 2000, so your problem may be just a shitty converter from B&M. Places like Dynamic Converters can build you a converter if you have a peculiar build combo. Hope this helps.

 

[Cyty Slykers]

I forgot to mention that I also have a sure grip 3.23 gears and the car is cruiser only.

 

[wyrmrider]

I used to know that Continental Converter in Inglewood CA on Florence Built the B&M conveters
Continental is one of the best- or was as they are gone- evidently the old man died
find out who exactly is building their converters
no one can make a suggestion without knowing your gears and headers and carb would help
still a 2000 stall converter should not be hurt by your motor specs
find out if it was "B&B" "brased" soldered/ welded fins and needle "bearings" All the converters I have ever gotten from Continental had these as basics + more
what fluid were you running and what cooler- still no matter what you should not have had a problem with those miles unless a quarter mile at a time- even then unless no cooling at all
Warranty? go for it
please get exact specs on the "hole shot"
Ask your rep if he knows where "Chris" from continental went- he may have to ask purchasing- I'd like to know because if he is in business somewhere else I'd use him
Continental also was/ is oem for several other well known Southern California transmission converter distributors- you can guess who but I can't say
Continental is considered a "best" not "the cheapest"
but your converter may have been from someone later than COntinental or B&M may have more than one supplier

 

[Sweet5ltr]

https://ftiperformance.com/Street-Racer-Series-Torque-Converter-95-for-727-TF8-SRC-8.htm

 

[wyrmrider]

Highly doubt fti "manufactures" transmission fluid"
no specs- what the hell is "semi synthetic"
and it really depends on whos clutches you are using etc

 

[Xp29h]

Here’s another shop to call..I used them and they were great. I was told to stay away from B&M no great reasons other than just don’t. So I called revmax, again I gave them info and they dialed it right in. Not too expensive either.

https://revmaxconverters.com/

 

[Cyty Slykers]

I used to know that Continental Converter in Inglewood CA on Florence Built the B&M conveters
Continental is one of the best- or was as they are gone- evidently the old man died
find out who exactly is building their converters
no one can make a suggestion without knowing your gears and headers and carb would help
still a 2000 stall converter should not be hurt by your motor specs
find out if it was "B&B" "brased" soldered/ welded fins and needle "bearings" All the converters I have ever gotten from Continental had these as basics + more
what fluid were you running and what cooler- still no matter what you should not have had a problem with those miles unless a quarter mile at a time- even then unless no cooling at all
Warranty? go for it
please get exact specs on the "hole shot"
Ask your rep if he knows where "Chris" from continental went- he may have to ask purchasing- I'd like to know because if he is in business somewhere else I'd use him
Continental also was/ is oem for several other well known Southern California transmission converter distributors- you can guess who but I can't say
Continental is considered a "best" not "the cheapest"
but your converter may have been from someone later than COntinental or B&M may have more than one supplier

Here’s another shop to call..I used them and they were great. I was told to stay away from B&M no great reasons other than just don’t. So I called revmax, again I gave them info and they dialed it right in. Not too expensive either.

https://revmaxconverters.com/

Thanks!... I thought b&m was the best around town? Also is it a good idea to have a transmission cooler when having a modified engine?

 

[Cyty Slykers]

Call B&M tech. dept., or TCI, Dynamic Converters, or a reputable trans. shop near you that deals with performance. They will ask you the following:

Engine hp & torq, Cam duration @ .050", Tire size and diameter, Rear end gearing, plus, what your intentions are with the car.

With that information they can suggest the type and stall for a converter. I believe the factory 727 TF converter had a stall of 1800 - 2000, so your problem may be just a shitty converter from B&M. Places like Dynamic Converters can build you a converter if you have a peculiar build combo. Hope this helps.

Thanks

 

[BeeKool]

I recently returned a brand new B&M 2000 stall to Summit because it wouldn't bolt to my flexplate.
Wish I had gone with a Hughes instead.

 

[wyrmrider]

Hughes does not build converters either
what you get with a Hughes or 440 source or other MOPAR shop is non chevy advice
this converter should not be rocket science
first thing to do is see what the warranty is
and yes you need more than the in the radiator cooler- you do at least have an in the radiator cooler- you are starting to scare me
if you need an add on cooler to you hunt wrecking yards or buy new?

 

[Photon440]

From the 1970 shop manual, even conservative factory ratings gave the 383 a lot more than 2,000 stall.

 

[rlem1977]

From the 1970 shop manual, even conservative factory ratings gave the 383 a lot more than 2,000 stall.
View attachment 590758

Good find and great info.

 

[Cyty Slykers]

From the 1970 shop manual, even conservative factory ratings gave the 383 a lot more than 2,000 stall.
View attachment 590758

My 1st mind told me to go with a 2400 stall but the novice in me told me to ask the engine builders that also race cars etc so I took their advice. I purchased the converter around the same time I got my engine out of the shop which was summer of 2015 so the warranty has expired.

 

[Cyty Slykers]

Hughes does not build converters either
what you get with a Hughes or 440 source or other MOPAR shop is non chevy advice
this converter should not be rocket science
first thing to do is see what the warranty is
and yes you need more than the in the radiator cooler- you do at least have an in the radiator cooler- you are starting to scare me
if you need an add on cooler to you hunt wrecking yards or buy new?

All of this engine build and hi po upgrades is fairly new to me so I wasn’t sure about the transmission cooler, type of stall to purchase as well as a few other things lol.

 

[BSB67]

Question: Are you saying that the power of your 383 broke the converter?

Observation: I think that cam in a 383 would have peak power a bit higher in the rpm range. That motor should pull cleanly to 6500 rpm. If not, the valve train with the HL cam could be going south at or slightly above 5100 rpm. This really hurts the small displacement engines that need to rev more.

 

[Cyty Slykers]

Question: Are you saying that the power of your 383 broke the converter?

Observation: I think that cam in a 383 would have peak power a bit higher in the rpm range. That motor should pull cleanly to 6500 rpm. If not, the valve train with the HL cam could be going south at or slightly above 5100 rpm. This really hurts the small displacement engines that need to rev more.

Yea, my engine specs was maxing out the converter and yesterday after reading the details on that b&m 2000 stall it stated that it’s not for big blocks or supercharger applications. I’m chalking it up as a learned lesson but will definitely make sure I get the proper converter and transmission cooler this time.

 

[wyrmrider]

if they are hinting that it is torque limited it might not be furnace brazed maybe broken fins are the reason for the noise
holy ****- something so cheap and easy to do
option 1 lean on B&M to investigate this manufacturing defect- they should want to know if there was one
costs nothing for them to cut it up and see
option 2 get a local converter shop to do it take pictures post them up publicity never hurts helping clean up bad spots
however your hP level should not even hurt a stock converter
I always start off with a stock hp converter to get a stall speed baseline even on big inch race motors (well sometimes start off with a 9") but always use the same old one
I can correlate with dyno pretty closely
Is the B&M up in Santa Rosa the same company (customer service, ethics, quality, etc)(prices) the one of Bob and Don I knew in the Valley