Torsion bar adjustment bolt at Lower Control Arm

[68 Sport Satellite]

I added welded LCA flat boxing plates with access holes to the bottoms of my lower control arms, which stiffens them up since I also had added a front sway bar.

The last time I adjusted the height of my front end before I took it in for alignment, I noticed that the adjustment bolt on one side was sitting just about flush with the bottom of the lower control arm boxing plate access hole, while the LCA on the other side had the bolt sticking out below the LCA plate at least 1 full inch. When I had the front end aligned they didn't mention it and I forgot to ask them. The car is in for paint right now so I can't get any photos, but it's been bothering me ever since. Shouldn't both adjusting bolts stick out the same amount??

 

[Ralph Cali]

mine is he same, i am not worrying about it since it drives right and I measured the height per the chrysler manual

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

Thanks. At least I know it's not just my car. It drives fine, but I just thought it was odd...

 

[greenmonsta79]

No, every Mopar I have had they are never identical side to side.

 

[MoparMikey]

Is it OK to change ride height with torsion bar adjustment and then get it aligned? If so, about how much can a B body be raised up front without an issue?

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

Is it OK to change ride height with torsion bar adjustment and then get it aligned? If so, about how much can a B body be raised up front without an issue?

yes, from my experience that's fine, although too much in either direction will affect handling balance, even with an alignment. Definitely get an alignment after adjusting torsion bars!

Keep in mind that if you are going for a performance alignment to get + caster (i.e. 2-4 degrees positive caster or more), the more your back end is raised compared to the front, the less positive caster you will be able to achieve. Positive caster helps the wheels stay straight, but too much can make steering feel heavier. Stock Upper control arms won't allow much positive caster to be dialed in, but aftermarket UCA's like those from Hotchkis, Firm Feel, etc. allow it. I have mine set at +4 caster with Hotchkis UCA's. It feels a tad heavy in the steering for normal street use, so I'm going to back it off to +2.5 degrees at the alignment shop.

For reference, our stock B-body caster was probably around zero caster, while top fuel dragsters who are trying to go fast in a straight line dial in upwards of +20 degrees caster. That's crazy for a street car though. +2-3 degrees should be plenty.

 

[green1]

The bar may be clocked off, compared to the one that is flush.