Transmission decisions

[Doorkicker]

First, I can't afford a proper high performance tranny at this point in time. So, going to start with rebuilding the one I've beat to death.

675 torque @ 4900, 690 hp @6700 stroker. I have a 727, 3k stall, gear vendors over under, and 4.10 gears. I drive a lot, race a little. Not a daily, but it does take a toll on the tranny because I have a heavy foot

What is your recommendation for a solid rebuild kit and I'm leaning towards the Transgo TF-3 shift kit.

Thoughts... comments?

 

[snakeoil24]

Go to a & A transmissions

 

[Curiousyellow71]

Have you looked into all that needs to be done to install a TF-3? It is a very intense not for beginners shift kit. Really for the $ get one from Cope or A&A and you will end up with a better shift kit then the TF-3 anyway. I have also heard of a TF-3 install(s) where the car moved in neutral. It likely had nothing to do with the kit..but a modification that went wrong. The last valve body I got was from cope. I am sure guys like there TF-3 full manual shift kits..but seems to me they aren't real popular anymore w the other aftermarket options such as turbo action, cope, A&A..etc.

For your hp...If you don't have one yet..you really need a front drum upgrade like a hybrid. Not worth the risk of the cast drum exploding.
There is a big difference in convertors, the 9 1/2s work great on the street. I have seen some 9 1/2s marketed at 9" for some reason.

A&A is hard to beat on most parts.

 

[Doorkicker]

Have you looked into all that needs to be done to install a TF-3? It is a very intense not for beginners shift kit. Really for the $ get one from Cope or A&A and you will end up with a better shift kit then the TF-3 anyway. I have also heard of a TF-3 install(s) where the car moved in neutral. It likely had nothing to do with the kit..but a modification that went wrong. The last valve body I got was from cope. I am sure guys like there TF-3 full manual shift kits..but seems to me they aren't real popular anymore w the other aftermarket options such as turbo action, cope, A&A..etc.

For your hp...If you don't have one yet..you really need a front drum upgrade like a hybrid. Not worth the risk of the cast drum exploding.
There is a big difference in convertors, the 9 1/2s work great on the street. I have seen some 9 1/2s marketed at 9" for some reason.

A&A is hard to beat on most parts.

I've installed a TF-2, but not a 3, and it was rather involved. The instructions are absolutely horrible.

 

[Doorkicker]

So, there's quite a few of "A&A Transmission" companies out there doing performance transmissions. From North Carolina and Georgia to Texas and California. Do you have a link, address, or phone number of the one you're thinking of?

I'm assuming this is the one... Home - A&A Transmissions

 

[Curiousyellow71]

Yes that is A&A

Their are quite a few parts that I would get from A&A.
I would also recommend cope. Between cope and A&A you can built a great transmission. John Cope does really detailed videos on YouTube which is very helpful for us doityourselfers. I sent a check with a core to Cope when I bought the last valve body.

https://www.coperacingtrans.com/?product_cat=valve-bodies

Also for overhaul parts you can get good prices from:
Transpartsonline.com

 

[493 Mike]

I've installed a TF-2, but not a 3, and it was rather involved. The instructions are absolutely horrible.

Transgo kits are designed for experienced transmission mechanics.
Mike

 

[tubalcain]

My recipe for a "kit"
Gasket, seal kit
Bushings (drivers Amazon 52 piece, $50.)
Be really picky about the fit of the front pump bushing.
Front, direct retainer- 5 thin red frictions- good, used steels (forget the Kolene scam).
2 1/4-inch red solid band. Not flex band.
3.8 or 4.2 lever (5 to 1 is too much)
Rear, forward retainer- 4 frictions- good used steels.
Factory reverse band is adequate.
Factory servos are adequate. Most servo failures, that I've seen, are due to improper seating of the snap rings.
The fancy forged- billet, strut rods are something to waste your money on.
I'm sure that others will opine.
To comply with the rules, PM me about the valve body.

 

[Doorkicker]

Transgo kits are designed for experienced transmission mechanics.
Mike

I guess since it worked perfectly, that makes me an experienced trans mech. Thanks for the promo!

 

[Budnicks]

or I'd highly recommend, to buy/get the book written by
Carl H. Monroe
"Torqueflite A-727 Transmission Handbook"
HPBooks-1399
even if you buy parts elsewhere from a reputable/recommended supplier
it is worth ever penny, detailed sound & proven advice,
street-strip, stock or full race
even some parts recommendations & suppliers, most all are still in business

 

[tubalcain]

I guess since it worked perfectly, that makes me an experienced trans mech. Thanks for the promo!

I've installed a TF-2, but not a 3, and it was rather involved. The instructions are absolutely horrible.

The TF-3 kit will be an eye opener. 493Mike is correct.

 

[dvw]

Personally I've done both the TF2 and the TF3. Why a TF3 over a TF2? I thought the instructions are fine. Take pictures as you disassemble for reference. If you have an issue? Trans Go tech support is very good. You do not need all the bushings. Most seldom wear. The two bushings to look at would be the pump bushing and the output shaft bushing. As long as the front drum you have holds 4 frictions that will be fine. Check the thrust washers. If they are worn order some. No need for fancy servos either. A kit with Borg Warner, Raybestos, or Alto high energy frictions will work in this application. If the steels look good reuse them. I'd like to see a 3.8 lever, but a 3.2 will work. As far as flex bands? A good quality one will give you no problem. My suggestion is tear it down and inspect. Then order what you need all at once. You'll also need a few special tools. Is this your first build? The Munroe book is a good asset. I order here all the time. Trans Parts Online 727 727 Transmission Parts. If I need specilaty parts they come from A&A. I see other suggestions here. Not all I agree with. I build plenty of hot rod/race 727's. Including servicing for racers. Much of what I'e learned is from former Chrysler trans engineers and builders such as Joel Raub, Rick Allison, Dave Smith. You would be surprised at what friction materials and stock parts are still used in a high end drag racing trans. I say go for it. Actually much easier than building an engine or setting up an axle. Just a lot of parts. If you get stuck I can walk you though any of it.
Doug

 

[Snook]

I'd stick with A&A. His competitors rip the A&A IP off on a regular basis.

Chuck (snook)

 

[Black_Sheep]

I'm no expert but here what's worked for me after having 2 "pro-built" transmissions fail miserably...

TCS steel-sleeved aluminum front drum
Borg Warner tan clutch frictions
Raybestos steel plates
Basic bushings, gaskets, sealing rings, lip seals, exterior seals, etc...
Reaction shaft support – 1971+ (required with TCS drum)
Rear clutch piston retainer – 1971+
Borg-Warner flex KD band
Rigid low/reverse band
4.2 KD lever
Output shaft ball bearing & snap rings
Bolt-in sprag w/rollers & springs
12 front clutch release springs (new Chrysler)
Front clutch spring retainer
2 pressure plates (new Chrysler)
HEMI governor kit (inner, outer, spring, snap rings)
Thrust washers
Sun gear and reaction shaft support bushings (not included in basic kit)
Turbo Action "Pro Street" forward pattern manual/automatic valve body
A&A deep steel pan with drain plug and billet aluminum filter extension
B&M Heavy duty SFI rated flex plate
9.5" "tight" torque converter - custom built by Dynamic

Before installing the sprag a 1/8” hole was drilled from the trans cooler return channel to aid sprag lubrication.

For reference materials I used a FSM and The Torqueflite A-727 Transmission Handbook. A&A, Turbo Action and T'Flite Patty all answered my questions and supplied most of the parts.

 

[Doorkicker]

I'm no expert but here what's worked for me after having 2 "pro-built" transmissions fail miserably...

TCS steel-sleeved aluminum front drum
Borg Warner tan clutch frictions
Raybestos steel plates
Basic bushings, gaskets, sealing rings, lip seals, exterior seals, etc...
Reaction shaft support – 1971+ (required with TCS drum)
Rear clutch piston retainer – 1971+
Borg-Warner flex KD band
Rigid low/reverse band
4.2 KD lever
Output shaft ball bearing & snap rings
Bolt-in sprag w/rollers & springs
12 front clutch release springs (new Chrysler)
Front clutch spring retainer
2 pressure plates (new Chrysler)
HEMI governor kit (inner, outer, spring, snap rings)
Thrust washers
Sun gear and reaction shaft support bushings (not included in basic kit)
Turbo Action "Pro Street" forward pattern manual/automatic valve body
A&A deep steel pan with drain plug and billet aluminum filter extension
B&M Heavy duty SFI rated flex plate
9.5" "tight" torque converter - custom built by Dynamic

Before installing the sprag a 1/8” hole was drilled from the trans cooler return channel to aid sprag lubrication.

For reference materials I used a FSM and The Torqueflite A-727 Transmission Handbook. A&A, Turbo Action and T'Flite Patty all answered my questions and supplied most of the parts.

Thank you!