Yep if you have an extra 7000 laying around. tremec,bell housing and driveshaft
Tremec TKX 5 speed vs. A-833 4 speed....
- Thread starter Joe Palmer
- Start date
- Local time
- 12:29 AM
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2021
- Messages
- 7,760
- Reaction score
- 44,204
- Location
- Miserable Smells TX
But when installing a Tremac TKX U need to change bell housing, clutch linkage... The Passon OD drop right in without any mods.. So in the long run the Passon OD is less expensive..
Just my $0.02...
Joe Palmer
Well-Known Member
It's not that bad if you already have the 4 speed set up. My Quote from SilverSport for the Bee was $5100 with me getting my own clutch.
I went with the kit for the '74 Z/28 (as we drive it alot more) with a hydraulic clutch and everything for a touch under $3600 (still need to have driveshaft made (for an extra $500)
A bargain in my mind....
Last edited:
Joe Palmer
Well-Known Member
I reviewed the entire kit in this episode (Sorry for the F Body in advance)
- Local time
- 10:29 PM
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2012
- Messages
- 39,470
- Reaction score
- 145,061
- Location
- Granite Bay CA
A kit for a Chevrolet that costs thousands less than a Mopar ???
Joe Palmer
Well-Known Member
Doesn't everything LOL....I have a 470 RWHP stick shift Z28 that I have 25K less in than a mostly stock '70 Super Bee....FML....
Project66
Well-Known Member
I don't think Tremec makes a Chrysler-pattern transmission, just GM and Ford. That's why you have to get a conversion bellhousing.
Project66
Well-Known Member
I just finished the TKX upgrade in my '66 Satellite. I took the car for it's first shake-down on Saturday and I am very happy with the way it drives. I'm still not satisfied with my shifter location, but there are some options that I haven't looked at yet. I'm gonna try the Lokar AxiShift to see if that gets me where I want it.
The installation took me longer than it should have, but this was my first swap so I had a lot to learn. The biggest issue for me was the bell housing alignment. I was not getting consistent numbers when I measured. Once I figured out how to set-up my dial indicator and understand the readings, everything went together pretty well. The other big challenge was installing the pedal kit. The kit did not include very good instructions on this part of the job and the parts did not want to line up. I ended-up opening up a couple of bolt holes to get everything to line up. I hope I don't regret that later.
I used the American Powertrain ("AP") kit with their hydraulic clutch. Their kit comes with a Wilwood master cylinder that has a really cheap looking plastic reservoir, rubber hose, and plastic connector for the master cylinder. Looking at the master, I saw that it has threads for a proper connector. So I found the part number on the Wilwood website (220-13130), bought the part from JEGS for $20, delivered. I also bought Wilwood's billet reservoir from AP and an adapter and -3AN hose from a random supplier on eBay to make all of my connections. The -3 line makes it harder to prime, but once I did that, the clutch works great and looks like it's supposed to be there.
I'll add some photos later. I don't have the pics on my computer.
The installation took me longer than it should have, but this was my first swap so I had a lot to learn. The biggest issue for me was the bell housing alignment. I was not getting consistent numbers when I measured. Once I figured out how to set-up my dial indicator and understand the readings, everything went together pretty well. The other big challenge was installing the pedal kit. The kit did not include very good instructions on this part of the job and the parts did not want to line up. I ended-up opening up a couple of bolt holes to get everything to line up. I hope I don't regret that later.
I used the American Powertrain ("AP") kit with their hydraulic clutch. Their kit comes with a Wilwood master cylinder that has a really cheap looking plastic reservoir, rubber hose, and plastic connector for the master cylinder. Looking at the master, I saw that it has threads for a proper connector. So I found the part number on the Wilwood website (220-13130), bought the part from JEGS for $20, delivered. I also bought Wilwood's billet reservoir from AP and an adapter and -3AN hose from a random supplier on eBay to make all of my connections. The -3 line makes it harder to prime, but once I did that, the clutch works great and looks like it's supposed to be there.
I'll add some photos later. I don't have the pics on my computer.
Nice but U need to add in some parts including..
- Hydramax Hydraulic Clutch
- Bell housing
- Flywheel
- Shifter
Joe Palmer
Well-Known Member
Did you mean for the Z28 install?
If so, no need as it bolt directly to the stock bell housing, will re-use my original flywheel and pressure plate (only need to purchase a disc as my clutch is new), comes with the shifter installed (will reuse my Hurst comp plus handle), and the hydraulic clutch is already in the quote....$3600 done...(plus clutch disc and drive shaft mods)
Last edited:
Joe Palmer
Well-Known Member
TKX is 30 lbs. lighter (129 vs 99), has a 600 lb. ft. capacity, and can shift at 7000 rpm with sintered carbon + bronze hybrid synchro's
If I drove my Bee alot maybe I could justify that kind of money.
Joe Palmer
Well-Known Member
Yup, that's why It's going in the Z...LOL
Cojohnso1
Well-Known Member
I figured it would be lighter. An A833 18 spline has handled higher than those #. But I'm guessing so can the Tremec. They're probably guarantee numbers.
Passon A855 5 speed says its at 750 HP ft/lb.
I have talked with Tremec on a possible 6 speed for a very serious E-body Pro Street build. 1200 HP at 1100 ft/lb. On pump gas N/A. They were the only transmission vendor even willing to take a shot. That new 6 speed. With some after production mods and gear polish.
Power is out running transmission options. Lenco would be an obvious contender. But that's defeating the purpose of a full manual transmission option. So still nosing around on any transmission thread.
Nope referring to the Mopar install... I just went through the TKK budget and parts, but went with the Passon OD for the RoadRunner. Everything bolted right in...
Just my $0.02..
It is a nice transmission and is much smaller than the older Tremecs, but for a B body Mopar, you still need to cut up your transmission tunnel to make it work. I spoke with a Tremec guy at Carlisle who confirmed this.
Yes, the Passon A-855 took me 5 years of waiting to get (prior to that I used a cast iron A-833 with OD gears and the shitty 3.09 1st gear). But, once I got it, it dropped in place using all my stock parts, with the shifter in the stock location. I love it - it works beautifully.
Project66
Well-Known Member
The only hole I had to cut was for the shifter. I had to remove a couple of screws from the rubber boot for the A-904 shifter rod for clearance, but I did not have to cut anything to clear the transmission housing.
Cojohnso1
Well-Known Member
I've heard plenty success stories of the Passon A855. And a few not. With some Q&A concerns. But that trend seemed to be on later dated production # Which leads me to believe they may have tried to stretch their tooling too Long? To be clear I have no evidence or even heard evidence of that. Except the trend appeared to start happening later in production.
Last edited:
Similar threads
- Locked
