• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Tremec TKX 5 speed vs. A-833 4 speed....

Will it do this for a real 4 speed car? I wasn't aware there was any Tremec transmission swap that allowed for a stock location of the shifter.

If there is, a link would be appreciated.
Your question requires a bit of clarification.
My Tremec swap resulted in the shifter appearing like stock. Under the console lid, the stub on the transmission itself comes up from the center but the adapter and aftermarket shift handle assembly connection are hidden.
Now for a stock 4 speed hump, I’d suggest removing the hump and welding a patch over the hole.
 
5 years is a long wait. I guess I should get my order in now. Did you have to pay for it first and then wait 5 years, or do you pay for it when its ready?
No payment up front - I just paid when a transmission was ready. I then received it a couple of weeks after paying for it.
 
Your question requires a bit of clarification.
My Tremec swap resulted in the shifter appearing like stock. Under the console lid, the stub on the transmission itself comes up from the center but the adapter and aftermarket shift handle assembly connection are hidden.
Now for a stock 4 speed hump, I’d suggest removing the hump and welding a patch over the hole.
Good clarification Kern. In my case, I have a bench seat car with a factory 4 speed, so I really didn't want to modify the transmission tunnel. Per my understanding, there is no adapter for any Tremec transmission that will locate the shifter in the stock location - the tunnel needs modification.

I'm not saying the above to discourage the use of a Tremec, I'm just trying to inform folks that mounting a Tremec requires sheet metal modifications and a non stock shifter location. If you are good with that, rock on. If not, you need to explore other choices.
 
What is the most cost effective option? I'm running 391's and would love a affordable overdrive
If you can find a cheap 833od, and a cheap 833, you put the od gears in the iron case. I did that for my GTX with a 440, I was lucky to get them cheap and have probably $530 in mine.
 
Good clarification Kern. In my case, I have a bench seat car with a factory 4 speed, so I really didn't want to modify the transmission tunnel. Per my understanding, there is no adapter for any Tremec transmission that will locate the shifter in the stock location - the tunnel needs modification.

I'm not saying the above to discourage the use of a Tremec, I'm just trying to inform folks that mounting a Tremec requires sheet metal modifications and a non stock shifter location. If you are good with that, rock on. If not, you need to explore other choices.
So I've seen many conflicting answers about whether or not the tunnel has to be modified in this string of posts. I have a factory 4-speed. So is the final official answer that my stock shifter location would have to change. Neither American Powertrain or Silver Sport has a solution that would put the shifter in my stock location? Is that correct?
 
If you can find a cheap 833od, and a cheap 833, you put the od gears in the iron case. I did that for my GTX with a 440, I was lucky to get them cheap and have probably $530 in mine.
Yup... That can work but note that 833OD has some strange gears including a 3.1 1st gear. Plus being a 23 spline behind a healthy 440 may be too much. My recommendation would be to get the OD gears from Passon, they are 18 spline, much stronger and better gear ratios..

Just my $0.02...
 
Yup... That can work but note that 833OD has some strange gears including a 3.1 1st gear. Plus being a 23 spline behind a healthy 440 may be too much. My recommendation would be to get the OD gears from Passon, they are 18 spline, much stronger and better gear ratios..

Just my $0.02...
Oh I know, the gear spread is awful. I wish I could afford Passons, or a 5 speed. But for now my cheap transmission will do fine.

Just make sure you get a new gasket set, cheeping out, and being in a bit of a time crunch, I thought I could get away with silicone and reusing the gaskets. :lol:
 
Oh I know, the gear spread is awful. I wish I could afford Passons, or a 5 speed. But for now my cheap transmission will do fine.

Just make sure you get a new gasket set, cheeping out, and being in a bit of a time crunch, I thought I could get away with silicone and reusing the gaskets. :lol:
Last year I installed a Passon OD and am very satisfied with it..

Just my $0.02..
 
Your question requires a bit of clarification.
My Tremec swap resulted in the shifter appearing like stock. Under the console lid, the stub on the transmission itself comes up from the center but the adapter and aftermarket shift handle assembly connection are hidden.
Now for a stock 4 speed hump, I’d suggest removing the hump and welding a patch over the hole.
I spoke w American Powertrain today and they confirmed this. On a 4 speed car, cover the existing hole, add new one.
Question- is the “off set” of the linkage above or below tunnel?
No console in my car so I’m wondering how this would look.
Debating what to do for an upgrade of a 23 spline.
 
Question- is the “off set” of the linkage above or below tunnel?
This is how it looks in a 1970 Charger.

SST 303.JPG

SST 304.JPG


For this model, an offset bracket is supplied.

SST 344.JPG

For the shift handle lever, below the console lid, there is no dog-leg curve to the left side where a stock 4 speed hump sits. The console hides a lot and allows the conversion to look really close to stock.
 
Here’s a pic of my final install. For me, the classic Hurst 4106 stick is perfect. It bolted tight to the TKX stub. The trans is in 1st gear in the pic.

F3CAACEE-B895-48F0-9A7A-131EA3B40EF1.jpeg
 
Will it do this for a real 4 speed car? I wasn't aware there was any Tremec transmission swap that allowed for a stock location of the shifter.

If there is, a link would be appreciated.
I really don't know. I know that everything lines up if you use an auto console, but the manual console might not sit in the car the same way. The auto console does not sit exactly in the center of the car, it's actually a little toward the driver.
 
Depending on your willingness to do some fabrication a new TKX is $2800... I've seen a few of the QT Bellhousings... After spending time trying to align one of those I'd rather modify the stock piece myself... The crossmember should be pretty easy, I've built a few in the past
Aligning a QT bellhousing is a piece of cake. Yeah it’s a PITA waiting on your offset dials but there’s nothing to it. As with any starter just make sure you get it shimmed right before you bolt your headers on.
 
Aligning a QT bellhousing is a piece of cake. Yeah it’s a PITA waiting on your offset dials but there’s nothing to it. As with any starter just make sure you get it shimmed right before you bolt your headers on.
Well since the QT bell I was working on was off by more than .120 and they don't sell dowels with that much offset I had to machine dowels to solve the problem... Then the mounting holes had to be oblong so the bolts would go in their holes...
After dealing with the one I did I heard stories of other people having similar problems... I stick by my original post I'd rather modify an original bell than use a QT bell...
 
Well since the QT bell I was working on was off by more than .120 and they don't sell dowels with that much offset I had to machine dowels to solve the problem... Then the mounting holes had to be oblong so the bolts would go in their holes...
After dealing with the one I did I heard stories of other people having similar problems... I stick by my original post I'd rather modify an original bell than use a QT bell...
Well when I first started dealing with these QT bell-housings I also came up with big numbers like you. You’re always supposed to check if your bellhousing is true. I have found mother mopar is way off not only on the bellhousing but these 50 year old blocks also but a lot of this was caused by thick and thin paint. Not all the blocks or some bell housings are the same but once I started grinding all of the paint down to bare metal on the block, grinding down the cam bolts and the powder coat on the QT bellhousing I haven’t ran in to another issue. Stick with what works for you but this is what works for me.
 
Why not use wide range A-833? 2.94 rear gear. 1st is equivalent to 3.55 rear and close ratio 833. 3rd is equal to 4.11 in direct. 4th well 2.94 fairly decent highway gear
 
Wide ratio 833 with a 2.94 gives almost the exact same 1st, 2nd, and 4th gear as a Passon OD with a 3.55, and 3rd gear is more aggressive in the wide ratio. Main thing the Passon gives is the extra strength, along with making an existing sporty axle gear more manageable.
 
I can't speak for the different 5 speeds first hand, but I have put 13k on my old crappy 833OD behind a 440. I don't race it, but it does get a beating. When it departs this world I will replace it with a 5 speed Tremec, most likely the TransX because of rounded top. I put the 4 speed hump in my car and I can remove it. Once you have a OD in the car you will never go back. My car has 3.23 rear so 80 mph is less than 2500, and first is less like a tractor gear.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top