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Trying to Decode a 67 RT Fender Tag and Certicard

I was at a local Mopar Show last year where a 1967 Hemi GTX 4-speed showed up. It was white with copper painted top (WK2), and copper interior. I had never seen this colour combo before, and thought it was quite striking.
 
From what I can see it looks like C440, (1967)
 
20K in today's market for a truly rust free 440 4 speed R/T is not bad.

If I were closer I might bid against you :poke:
 
20K in today's market for a truly rust free 440 4 speed R/T is not bad.

If I were closer I might bid against you :poke:
How much would it be worth it it were a '68 Charger? Both cars feel and drive the same. As the owner of a 1967 R/T, I feel the '66-'67 big block B-bodies continue be to be the best bang for the $$$.
 
The gas pedal appears to be a C Body part, I could be wrong.
 
When I zoomed up they appeared to be 23
Question, if the Build Date was Nov 22nd then would it make sense that the numbers on the LR of the Engine Stamp should be that day or earlier but should not be later. (ie. 10 23) but should not be 11 23 or 12 23. Let me know if that is correct. I should have the cleaned off photo this evening and will send it over.
 
The date Nov. 22 is the scheduled production date, not necessarily the actual production date. It is nice if the engine date precedes the SPD by a few days to a couple of weeks, but that is not always the case on original engined cars.
 
The date Nov. 22 is the scheduled production date, not necessarily the actual production date. It is nice if the engine date precedes the SPD by a few days to a couple of weeks, but that is not always the case on original engined cars.
My '69 Bee SPD is Feb 25th. My engine wasn't built until Feb 27th and my driver's side exhaust manifold was cast on the 28th !
 
The owner cleaned off the block stamp pad. I've attached the photo. Also he included the the body numbers stamped on the Radiator Support. Any help in determining whether or not the engine is original to the car would be appreciated. My son and I are supposed to be leaving tomorrow afternoon to head out to get the car so it's better to know now then to know after the fact. Thank you, Russell

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My understanding is that the number on the Radiator Support didn't start matching the VIN until 69. If someone knows that one way or the other, please let me know. Thanks
The owner cleaned off the block stamp pad. I've attached the photo. Also he included the the body numbers stamped on the Radiator Support. Any help in determining whether or not the engine is original to the car would be appreciated. My son and I are supposed to be leaving tomorrow afternoon to head out to get the car so it's better to know now then to know after the fact. Thank you, Russell

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Body stamp matches the fender tag. Engine is a '67 and was built on March 23rd ( my birthdate)
 
Looks to me like it's a 350hp 67 440 built on Mar 23. Which works well with intake date and what we can see on the block cast# (3 15)?
 
Thank you all for your feedback. So since we don't have VIN#'s to verify with the Engine stamps on 67's, would it be a safe assumption to consider this engine to be the original one for this car?
 
No; original engine would have been 375 h.p., with HP stamp on engine pad. Your engine likely came out of a C-body, with a 600 cfm. Holley on it. It might not have the 1.74" exhaust valves in the heads, or better cam.
 
The car was built Nov 66, and the engine was Mar 67.
So not from that car.
 
Thank you for confirming. Given that the engine is not original and the current condition of the car, what would you suggest would be a fair price? I'm thinking $15k but would like to know what you all think.
 
Thank you for confirming. Given that the engine is not original and the current condition of the car, what would you suggest would be a fair price? I'm thinking $15k but would like to know what you all think.
Give it a try. The worst that can happen is he says No. From there, it's called bargaining. A lot of guys that have a car for sale are "fishing", anyhow.
 
Dave, thanks. I'm just thinking that at some point if I would be wanting to sell the car, it would make a difference in the price. I would consider this a "fair" Condition car according to Hagerty's valuation (has visible flaws, runs fine but could use cosmetic or mechanical attention). For one with a 4 spd and the original engine, they give a value of about $21k which was in line with what I was offering. Thinking the deduct for a replacement engine (non HP to boot) would be at least 25% off.
 
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