TTi header fitment

[440plus6]

I am considering 2" TTi headers for my stroker build in my 69 Charger RT. Anyone have any experience with fitment? Mine is a 4-speed car, 11" flywheel, Tremec 5 speed. I see other threads speaking to alignment of the headers, but I'm primarily concerned about shoehorning it in there, and starter issues.

Appreciate your input

 

[hunt2elk]

I have TTI 1 7/8" on all my cars. They all fit fine and can be installed fairly easily by turning the steering one way or the other. The starter deal is not quite so nice. Header needs to be unbolted, but not removed to get a starter out.

 

[PeteyDaMan]

can't speak for gen 2 Charger but my gen 3 has 1 7/8 TTI's and they fit perfect.

 

[70ChargerRT]

TTi screwed me back in 2017 using 1 7/8 tubes. Passenger side was hitting my idler arm and heard of others who have hit the idler arm also. Called them and wasn’t expecting to be rude to. Was told I was probably running the wrong idler arm and all kinds of BS. They told me they’d bend me another passenger side but I’d have to eat the cost of all shipping from one end to the United States to the other. Forget about changing a starter out with them on.

 

[PeteyDaMan]

TTi screwed me back in 2017 using 1 7/8 tubes. Passenger side was hitting my idler arm and heard of others who have hit the idler arm also. Called them and wasn’t expecting to be rude to. Was told I was probably running the wrong idler arm and all kinds of BS. They told me they’d bend me another passenger side but I’d have to eat the cost of all shipping from one end to the United States to the other. Forget about changing a starter out with them on.

with any header it's best to go with a mini starter. The 90's Dakota starter is cheap and works a world better than the original monster starters. In addition to that they make a terminal relocation kit that moves the connections from the top of the starter to the back making wiring a snap.

If you're not willing to do a little bit of modification to your car to make aftermarket parts fit then maybe hot rodding isn't the hobby for you

 

[70ChargerRT]

with any header it's best to go with a mini starter. The 90's Dakota starter is cheap and works a world better than the original monster starters. In addition to that they make a terminal relocation kit that moves the connections from the top of the starter to the back making wiring a snap.

If you're not willing to do a little bit of modification to your car to make aftermarket parts fit then maybe hot rodding isn't the hobby for you

You can’t be serious can you? Do you think you’re talking to a child?

 

[PeteyDaMan]

You can’t be serious can you? Do you think you’re talking to a child

No, I don't. But saying that changing the starter is difficult with ANY set of headers is beyond obvious. TTI's are probably the best fitting headers for a B body I've ever used and given their reputation I think most would agree.

 

[70ChargerRT]

You still have to drop the header to get the mini-starter out duh!!! What the hell you talking about a little bit of modification I’m running a T-56 Magnum and all sorts of mods lol lol. I’ve also read 2” Doug’s fitting good. TTi has people bending their pipes and I told him don’t you think people screw up too? The horrible customer service left a bad taste in my mouth but yes for the most part TTi fit most of the time.

 

[Darter6]

Don't forget to replace the engine mounts along with the transmission mount and all should fit fine.
I learned my lesson with the first set of TTI. 27 sets later all is well. Good idea with all headers.

 

[68Moparmaniac]

I am considering 2" TTi headers for my stroker build in my 69 Charger RT. Anyone have any experience with fitment? Mine is a 4-speed car, 11" flywheel, Tremec 5 speed. I see other threads speaking to alignment of the headers, but I'm primarily concerned about shoehorning it in there, and starter issues.

Appreciate your input

Wow 2" tubes are probably going to be a tight fit. My 1 7/8 tubes take up a lot of real estate and make plug changes a little challenging I couldn't imagine what 2" would be like. Would be interested how that works out for you brother

 

[440plus6]

LOL, fingers crossed they fit! lol

 

[Demonic]

Unless you're racing every weekend, 2" tubes are overkill for a street car.

 

[440plus6]

Well, they are currently in my shop awaiting my motor completion. As I laid out a pretty hefty bunch of cash for them, really hoping they fit. I spoke with a few gentlemen that indicated they had successfully used 2", I hope as stated that everything works out. I was just following my engine builder's advice. Fingers crossed or I'll have a really nice set of ceramic coated headers for sale.

 

[chargervert]

You still have to drop the header to get the mini-starter out duh!!! What the hell you talking about a little bit of modification I’m running a T-56 Magnum and all sorts of mods lol lol. I’ve also read 2” Doug’s fitting good. TTi has people bending their pipes and I told him don’t you think people screw up too? The horrible customer service left a bad taste in my mouth but yes for the most part TTi fit most of the time.

I pull my steering column out and the mini starter can be removed without disconnecting anything else but the wires.

 

[70ChargerRT]

I pull my steering column out and the mini starter can be removed without disconnecting anything else but the wires.

Yeah that may work but I’ll just Take it home and put it on the lift.

 

[chargervert]

It works I did it in my 70 Charger and my 71 Challenger convertible, the Charger has a 440 and the Challenger has a 383. No unbolting the engine mount, or header/collector, no antifreeze dripping in your face,no gaskets,or fluid replacement, just a half hour to remove the steering column, unbolt the starter,remove the wires,rotate the starter out between the tube and the mini starter is out. Reverse the process to put it back in.

 

[nativefx]

I had to get a second passenger side header, as the first hung way to low (almost 2"). Assume it was for an RB motor and I have a B block, but the P/N said it was correct. Even the replacement didn't fix everything, but I figured I wasn't going to get any better result sending back for a 3rd header. Still had to dimple the header to clear the idler arm and bend it to line up better with the exhaust. Extra time and money spent to redo ceramic coating for both once I decided to keep the replacement and modify. For the big difference in price, I guess I expected more.

 

[Dennis H]

Right side idler arm. A little ding will do ya.

 

[68Moparmaniac]

I had to get a second passenger side header, as the first hung way to low (almost 2"). Assume it was for an RB motor and I have a B block, but the P/N said it was correct. Even the replacement didn't fix everything, but I figured I wasn't going to get any better result sending back for a 3rd header. Still had to dimple the header to clear the idler arm and bend it to line up better with the exhaust. Extra time and money spent to redo ceramic coating for both once I decided to keep the replacement and modify. For the big difference in price, I guess I expected more.

Dang I had zero issues with mine, fit like a glove without having to beat on the pipes for clearance, that's a large bag of suck that you had to resort to bashing making them fit plus re-coating..

 

[not so famous bob]

actually not on 505

Unless you're racing every weekend, 2" tubes are overkill for a street car.

actually not on 505 c.i. ...