Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
Put a bird nose on it and put them under there! 
Twin Turbo Remote (rear) mount
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747mopar
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Glad Goon started this thread, I once said I'd never turbo my car because of the mess it creates but lately I'm a bit more open minded. Been checking into a few things just to get a feel for it, turns out I can send my brand new QF carb back to the factory and have it setup as a blow threw carb which is nice. Also talked to Precision and they recommended twin 5862's for turbo's. At this point I don't really have a goal since I don't even know what a 600-700 hp car even feels like? Also will be looking into my rotating assembly, it's a factory 1971 forged 440 crank with Keith Black Hyp pistons. Thinking forged pistons and likely better rods at the minimum? To many things to consider but if I pull the trigger it won't be anytime soon.
Torkmnstr
Well-Known Member
They are a good move if there is no spec under the hood. The long run in most cases eliminates an intercooler due to the long run of the intake pipe back up front and all the air flow under the car. I thought about one of sts turbo kits, but they have gone belly up
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Although the original STS is gone, the originator of that company Rick Squires is up and running as Squires Performance. His site explains the story:I thought about one of sts turbo kits, but they have gone belly up
http://www.squiresperformance.com/
mr.belvedere
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HYRDGOON
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Great link!
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That 71 {?} Charger they're building is bad ***...
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
Cool read.
Is STS (Squires Turbo Systems) still in business? Rear mounts are all they do.
Mike
Mike
Sweet5ltr
Well-Known Member
Listen, front mounted turbo's are great when you run nearly any generation SBC, SBF, or even SBM; it's quite easy to browse for the perfect log/turbo manifold through an online catalog or utilize a junkyard exhaust manifold. We don't have that luxury with a BBM unfortunately, and unless you plan on owning a dedicated project car for two or three years while perfecting a 'street friendly' setup, you'll end up like 95% of the cars on theturboforums that are never completed due to over-complexity. Sure, you can remove your inner fenders, run a coil-over suspension setup, install an aftermarket k-member, ditch the torsion bars, and provide yourself with ample room for installation for a front mount setup. Then, you run into the problem of either A) running twin 3.5" diameter downpipes to the rear of the car, possibly merging into a 4" single unit or B) running a 5" down-pipe, dumped out the front fender after merging the two 3.5" pipes from your twin-T4's. Now I'm talking a street friendly setup, something you can drive in traffic, to the car show, and take short trips to the beach in without worrying. You can't dump a 5" exhaust out the fender and plan on driving the car to the local cruise in, that isn't even an option. You certainly can't run 3.5" diameter pipes through the tiny crevice of a space between the block, frame, and torsion bars. Once you actually sit back and think about it, it's quite difficult to understand the complexity until your 'knee-deep' in it. Please read my entire thread on theturboforums to understand what the 'average' guy is getting into, prior to starting on this sort of project. It's fairly straight forward, but I did make some mistakes along the way and corrected them by the end of my journey.
Cost wise, you're looking at around $3,500-$4,000 total. That's with the A2W intercooler setup, snow performance meth injection, CSU carb, MSD electronics, fabrication at the shop, turbo, etc. I did purchase quite a few of my components second hand however.
BTW, my breather is mounted in the trunk.
My advice;
Read my entire thread to get a realistic expectation to what is all involved. Throw out everything you've learned about N/A engines, and pick up a copy of Corky Bells 'Maximum Boost'.
If anyone is realistically wanting to do this, I would cut a SERIOUS deal on my MSD 6AL ignition box, boost-timing master, and Snow Performance Stage II kit.
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Sweet5ltr
Well-Known Member
This is the kind of power you can expect out of a mild, turbo big-block Mopar.. Just turn up the wick'..
Derwud
Well-Known Member
I'm very interested as well, I've come down with a serious illness that only more horsepower can cure
I got cured with more Cowbells.
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
Very cool!
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
Do you have a link to you your build thread? BTW, I'm running 4" fender exits and I'm going to drive it everywhere.View attachment 362204 From the dead
Listen, front mounted turbo's are great when you run nearly any generation SBC, SBF, or even SBM; it's quite easy to browse for the perfect log/turbo manifold through an online catalog or utilize a junkyard exhaust manifold. We don't have that luxury with a BBM unfortunately, and unless you plan on owning a dedicated project car for two or three years while perfecting a 'street friendly' setup, you'll end up like 95% of the cars on theturboforums that are never completed due to over-complexity. Sure, you can remove your inner fenders, run a coil-over suspension setup, install an aftermarket k-member, ditch the torsion bars, and provide yourself with ample room for installation for a front mount setup. Then, you run into the problem of either A) running twin 3.5" diameter downpipes to the rear of the car, possibly merging into a 4" single unit or B) running a 5" down-pipe, dumped out the front fender after merging the two 3.5" pipes from your twin-T4's. Now I'm talking a street friendly setup, something you can drive in traffic, to the car show, and take short trips to the beach in without worrying. You can't dump a 5" exhaust out the fender and plan on driving the car to the local cruise in, that isn't even an option. You certainly can't run 3.5" diameter pipes through the tiny crevice of a space between the block, frame, and torsion bars. Once you actually sit back and think about it, it's quite difficult to understand the complexity until your 'knee-deep' in it. Please read my entire thread on theturboforums to understand what the 'average' guy is getting into, prior to starting on this sort of project. It's fairly straight forward, but I did make some mistakes along the way and corrected them by the end of my journey.
Cost wise, you're looking at around $3,500-$4,000 total. That's with the A2W intercooler setup, snow performance meth injection, CSU carb, MSD electronics, fabrication at the shop, turbo, etc. I did purchase quite a few of my components second hand however.
BTW, my breather is mounted in the trunk.
My advice;
Read my entire thread to get a realistic expectation to what is all involved. Throw out everything you've learned about N/A engines, and pick up a copy of Corky Bells 'Maximum Boost'.
If anyone is realistically wanting to do this, I would cut a SERIOUS deal on my MSD 6AL ignition box, boost-timing master, and Snow Performance Stage II kit.
Sweet5ltr
Well-Known Member
Not sure my girlfriend would take a ride with me ANYWHERE with a 4" fender exit, but I love the idea myself. However, I would probably be single as my girlfriend doesn't enjoy the windows being down anyways, let alone exhaust fumes bellowing out the passenger side. . .
I may be picking up another project car here shortly, deciding if I want to go G3 Hemi or a lil' 318 with a GT45 ;)
http://www.theturboforums.com/threads/371022-First-turbo-build-(rear-mount)-in-69-RR
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Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
Great read. You've been running that thing for a while. As you mentioned, a lot of these never get finished. Congrats on completing and enjoying one.
Sweet5ltr
Well-Known Member
Boost is boost, it doesn't really matter where it comes from (front or rear mount). You're maybe looking at 20-30HP @ 6-8 PSI difference between a front & rear mount if running an identical turbo (rear mounts are usually spec'ed a bit smaller for quicker spooling). Also, my hot side is wrapped to retain as much heat as possible. I'm actually moving up to a 9" FTI 4800 converter and back to the MP .590 solid that was in the car previously. My current camshaft with 240 @ .050/112 LSA isn't cutting it, as my cylinder pressure has risen significantly, therefor, I can't really run any more reliable boost on pump fuel w/o meth (which kind of defeats the entire purpose). The car sounds unbelievable with the MP .590, and it's real easy on parts with its slow ramp-rates and relatively low-lift. I've had some of the faster ramp rate camshafts in this car, and they seem to wipe out fairly quick in a street application.
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Heres a twin turbo setup option. It is for the modern Hemis however it could be adapted to work with other motors.
http://www.hellionpowersystems.com/index.php/turbo-systems/162
http://www.hellionpowersystems.com/index.php/turbo-systems/162
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