icetech
Well-Known Member
Yeah... my plan is "Very tight"
Ubolts with flattened top? and pinion seal question...
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70bigblockdodge
Well-Known Member
If you have the small nut on the yoke, which is a good probability with a 741 case I would not try to hit 240lbft. It does say large pinion on the service manual photo.
240 is the bare minimum.
I use a 3/4" big-*** breaker Bar, set to f#*cking TiTe.
This is one area you can't afford to be wimpy.
I use a 3/4" big-*** breaker Bar, set to f#*cking TiTe.
This is one area you can't afford to be wimpy.
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I've been doing this for 30+ years and never had a nut come loose or had bearing problems. 240 minimum? Maybe I was hitting it with that much.....? Like I said, once the red is on the threads, nothing is going to come loose.
Turning torque isn't going to change once it's set up (it's already set up....and just changing the seal) with the right shims....unless someone wimps out and get's 50 on the pinion nut. It's easy to do 150 or more but 240 is getting up there. My clicker goes up to 150 and has no problem clicking at the point and the nut doesn't move anymore. My beam wrench goes to 140 and can push past that number and nothing moves. And turning torque is checked with an inch pound wrench and is supposed to be checked without the ring gear or the seal in place.
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And get your seal from Dr Diff. You'll find all of the parts houses sell either a one rib leather or a one rib rubber. Cass is the only one that I've found that carries a double rib rubber seal. It might not have the flange on it so just make it flush.
Another thing, lube has been known to wick up the pinion splines and through the yoke. Use some liquid Teflon on them before sliding the yoke back on.
Another thing, lube has been known to wick up the pinion splines and through the yoke. Use some liquid Teflon on them before sliding the yoke back on.
icetech
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Yup, i had just read about the teflon thing while doing some research at work
Already got it in m cart at Dr.Diff, just waiting for a email back to see if the wheel studs he sells will work fine to convert my swedged hubs into normal ones.. seems there are a lot of studs out there...
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Yup, i had just read about the teflon thing while doing some research at work
So you've seen this? I don't know if the studs he listed are still available or not.
Mopar Tapered Axle Brakes
Removing the swedged studs on the front hubs, same as the rear. This page and the next...
Post in thread 'Taking Up New Residence' Taking Up New Residence
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icetech
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Yup, i believe that's how i found out about the conversion
I need to order the hub tool.. been lazy.. I also saw another guy that showed you can remove the studs/hub without hurting the hub or drum.. but i figure my drums will need replacing anyway, going to put all new hardware on the brakes and hopefully 95+ mustang discs in the front.
66Satellite47
Well-Known Member
I'm with Cranky, on my 42 pumpkin and with my Dana's I used a 2 1/2 foot cheater on my breaker bar and jumped on it. My torque wrench goes nowhere near the spec. Never a problem.
451Mopar
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I use this torque wrench, CDI 30-250 ft/lbs:
Amazon product ASIN B000KL4H80
Amazon product ASIN B000KL4H80
sevierstan
Member
I"m new at this on a computer, not sure how to get an answer from a post , anyway i seen your post about changing the pinion seal and the answer you got back I just bought a 1965 Satellite a couple months ago I have the 741 case I was going to change the gear but changed my mine its a 2:93 open maybe later, how did your pinion seal job turn out? my torque wrench doesn't go to 240lbs either this car sit for about 10 years but the 318 runs great holds 55 lbs oil pressure someone put a mild cam and intake on it cleaned the pan which surprised me had very little crud in it ,thinking about ordering and putting power disc brakes on it do know of anyone that has done this and what kit they used?
icetech
Well-Known Member
Most people just use a breaker bar and pipe... can buy a big torque wrench if you like
I haven't done my brake conversion yet (i'm working back to front on the car and i'm almost there) I will be ordering my kit from Drdiff... or maybe piratejacks.. i haven't decided yet.. the brake conversion is very straight forward if you have ever done any suspension work before.
69hemibeep
Well-Known Member
I'm doing a pinion seal on a 742 case and had to use a 3/4" drive impact to remove the pinion nut. Now that the seal arrived the dang thing is leather, guess I'll oil it up and give it a try??
icetech
Well-Known Member
Nothing wrong with leather seals... have seen them last 40+ years and still be good
P.S. also it's not like it's a hard job if you ever need to change it again...
matthon
Well-Known Member
Just changed my seal.
Marked the yoke, pinion, and nut with a paint pen.
I figure there's a margin of error, under the car, dirty.
Came off fairly easy with a 90psi gun.
Back together, pipe wrench on yoke rock steady, can't get it back to my so called mark.
Turned up the psi to 100+, worked it back and forth a few times.
Don't have a 240 wrench.
Breaker bar with jack handle on it, but not enough room under car.
I don't feel any play, back and forth, up and down.
New seal was driven home all the way.
Send it, or am I sol?
Marked the yoke, pinion, and nut with a paint pen.
I figure there's a margin of error, under the car, dirty.
Came off fairly easy with a 90psi gun.
Back together, pipe wrench on yoke rock steady, can't get it back to my so called mark.
Turned up the psi to 100+, worked it back and forth a few times.
Don't have a 240 wrench.
Breaker bar with jack handle on it, but not enough room under car.
I don't feel any play, back and forth, up and down.
New seal was driven home all the way.
Send it, or am I sol?
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With the rear on jack stands, I had the driver's side wheel off and had the breaker bar with long pipe through under the leaf springs. Stood on the pipe from outside the car.
Cass once told me that 240 ft lbs was extreme. The size of the thread and nut doesn't warrant that much torque. I broke my 220 lb torque wrench doing one.
matthon
Well-Known Member
Car is up on ramps.
I tried a pipe wrench on the yoke against the floor, the breaker bar with a pipe on the end, put the jack under the pipe and slowly pumped the jack.
Nut didn't budge, car started to rise.
I tried a pipe wrench on the yoke against the floor, the breaker bar with a pipe on the end, put the jack under the pipe and slowly pumped the jack.
Nut didn't budge, car started to rise.
Encswsm
Well-Known Member
I had a 95 Winnebago with a 454 in it. The pinion seal was leaking so I replaced it, the nut was like 550 FTLBS of torque. it was crazy. I had to rent a torque multiplier form a tool rental place to get it tight enough. When I was under the RV tightening the pinion nut I had to get my wife to stand on the brakes cause when I turned the nut the dang thing tried to roll away.240lbs? holy cow... i thought it would be like 50.... guess i should open that shop manual sometime
matthon
Well-Known Member
Did you get it back to where it was originally?
Or even close to 240?
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