UGH!! -- clutch disk stuck to flywheel

[69 Charger]

Looks like I let my car sit too long, and now the clutch disk is **firmly** stuck to the flywheel. Just installed the new driveline and manually bumping the car with the clutch in and trans in 2nd gear isn't breaking it loose, maybe even to the point of turning the engine over instead of breaking it loose.

Any other ideas out there?

Or, is it possible to take off lower inspection cover and pry a little between flywheel and disk (426 hemi and A-833 setup)? Or, drop the whole engine/trans/driveline and take it apart manually--not liking that option, but might be solution of last resort.

Thanks in advance!

Michael

My Charger/383 was off the road a long time, but I started the engine to warm it up periodically. On one occasion, I found the clutch disc stuck to the pressure plate or flywheel. I jacked up the rear end, started the car, revved the engine and slammed on the brakes. Stopped the engine, shifted into reverse, and repeated the process. That broke it free.

 

[ynst]

Interesting. I don't know why it would be backwards, but could certainly do that. Thinking ahead, but removing the inspection cover won't tell me if it's forwards or backwards, right? It's been about 50 years, but seems like the clutch disk spline sticks further out on one side vs. the other, but not sure I would even see that or know it visually by taking off the inspection cover. Wouldn't the material be the same on both sides of the disk, that is, against the metal flywheel and pressure plate surfaces??

Actually, you might get an inkling as to whether it's in backwards by removing the cover because the disc will be so far away from the flywheel that you will probably be able to get a screwdriver to, easily, slide in between the flywheel and the disc.

The backwards hub will be interfering with the flywheel bolts and you'll never get it to free up w/o flipping it over.

Also, there'll be an excessive amount of free play in the throw-out bearing because the fingers will be depressed well beyond the normal disengage position due to the hat being torqued down against the reversed disc that's WAY back relative to normal and the pressure plate, thus, being forced into the clutch hat.

If your clutch fork free play seems normal, the disc is probably in there correctly.