Under $300 disc brake conversion.

[1967coronet]

The center hole of the rotor needs to be opened up a bit so it can fit onto the hub. That’s very clear. My question is about the hub. Does the existing drum brake hub get reused? Are the studs difficult to get out in order to remove the drum? Did you need to purchase new studs? Thank you.

Yes, the original drum brake hub is reused on the kit I ordered. ( scarebird has other kits for more $ that use a new rotor and hub assembly)
I was able to just remove the swedge stakes and let the drum come off the hub.
My original studs were plenty long for oem style steel wheels.
If a guy was going to a custom wheel with a thick flange you may want to replace the studs with a longer style.
Scarebird on their sight gives a dorman number for a replacement wheel lug/stud that is a little longer.

 

[qkcuda]

I got my calipers and rotors yesterday, and I picked up a master cylinder on Amazon which should be here in a day or two. Turns out my MP master cylinder was 1 1/8 bore which is too big for a manual brake application. I contacted Scarebird and they are 2-4 weeks out on the bracket kit right now.

 

[1967coronet]

I got my calipers and rotors yesterday, and I picked up a master cylinder on Amazon which should be here in a day or two. Turns out my MP master cylinder was 1 1/8 bore which is too big for a manual brake application. I contacted Scarebird and they are 2-4 weeks out on the bracket kit right now.

Glad your rounding up parts, I was surprised at the low cost and how easy the swap was. I was lucky and got my order from them in a week.
I bet they come through soon.

 

[1967coronet]

I got my calipers and rotors yesterday, and I picked up a master cylinder on Amazon which should be here in a day or two. Turns out my MP master cylinder was 1 1/8 bore which is too big for a manual brake application. I contacted Scarebird and they are 2-4 weeks out on the bracket kit right now.

One more thing I should add . Go back to post #1 , the picture I stuck on there with the bottle jack under the lower , that will keep all the bolt holes inline for placement of the new bracket.
Otherwise the tension on the lower arm drops everything aprox 3 inches. When you pull the bolts. Then your looking for your bottle jack.

 

[qkcuda]

Thanks for the heads up. Looking at your first picture it looks like the knurled portion of the studs is pretty much the same thickness as the rotor hat. Is that correct? I do have aftermarket wheels, but I have plenty of thread engagement right now with the drums. I still have the original left hand thread studs on the drivers side. If I have to change them I will probably have to change the rears too so they are all right hand thread.

 

[AR67GTX]

Thanks for this info. I will look into it when I get some time.

 

[1967coronet]

Thanks for the heads up. Looking at your first picture it looks like the knurled portion of the studs is pretty much the same thickness as the rotor hat. Is that correct? I do have aftermarket wheels, but I have plenty of thread engagement right now with the drums. I still have the original left hand thread studs on the drivers side. If I have to change them I will probably have to change the rears too so they are all right hand thread.

View attachment 1234973

Yes the rotor center / hat comes out to wear the threads start.
Nice wheels .
I still have lefts also.

 

[qkcuda]

For information, I did a lot of searching for a modern master that would work with manual brakes and wouldn't leak like every factory one I have ever had. My buddy with the parts store said the factory manual brake master was 1 1/32 bore. I found this Dorman master which is the same bore size, has provisions for the rubber pushrod retainer, is brand new and as a bonus, is aluminum. The part number is M99294.

 

[1967coronet]

For information, I did a lot of searching for a modern master that would work with manual brakes and wouldn't leak like every factory one I have ever had. My buddy with the parts store said the factory manual brake master was 1 1/32 bore. I found this Dorman master which is the same bore size, has provisions for the rubber pushrod retainer, is brand new and as a bonus, is aluminum. The part number is M99294.

View attachment 1237023

Thanks, that looks like a good upgrade to get some extra fluid capacity.

 

[qkcuda]

You will need the 4 bolt to 2 bolt adapter, but I already had one for the MP master I didn't end up using.

 

[qkcuda]

Thanks for the parts list Dan. I see some bolts listed. I pulled out the new calipers, and they come with sleeved bolts. Am I missing another set? I can't really picture how it goes together.

 

[1967coronet]

No, that's all the bolts for the calipers , just 2 per.
You will end up with some extra copper washers , you will get a set with the hoses and scarebird sends some also.

 

[qkcuda]

Thanks Dan

 

[OKDart]

How difficult was it to seperate the drum from the hub? Were the existing studs long enough after you installed the new rotor?

I’m not sure about other years, but on the 68-70 I’ve worked on, the entire circumference of the stud has to be drilled with a hole saw completely through the drum. I used a 5/8” hole saw, but had to grind away a bit on the inside with a rotary file so it would fit over the stud.

As you can see, if you wanted to re-use the studs, the part on the stud that would contact the holes in the rotor is drilled away so there would be excess play around the stud. Probably dangerous to run it like that. Best to replace the stud.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XGWDTX8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Lowcar]

i ordered this kit on jan 21 when 67 coronet first posted it i hadn't heard of it, having a 65 with stock drums felt it could only be an improvement. it's still on backorder scarebird does not answer phones only email last email said first of march. the more this thread gets posted on the more confused i get. it went from OP's easy as pie do it in your sleep conversion to latest post of major teardown surgery?

 

[1967coronet]

Perhaps I did get lucky on the fast shipping of my scarebird parts. I did not know that their stock was low since mine showed up fast.
They have been great folks to deal with. My only contact was through email.
As far a the install of the kit / set up mine went smooth and seem to work well with the limited testing I have done.
Their parts seem to be built well and fit fine.
Like any update or conversion on these old cars I am sure there are more than one way to get from A to B .
The swedge stake areas on my 67 were 4 per stud and easy to trim off. If my swedges were like okdart showed I would also swap the studs.
If needed scare bird does list a dorman part number for replacement studs. Those are pretty easy to change out if needed since the hub is allready off the car. If you do not have a hole saw that small you can just grind off the back side head and pop them out the front.
Sorry for any confusion Lowcar, I really would not consider wheel stud replacement a major tear down or surgery. If needed I would be glad to help you , after your parts arrive if you need help just pm me.

 

[moparedtn]

Yo Dan:
Have you now had a chance to "live" with the new brakes enough now to give an update?
@1967coronet

 

[1967coronet]

Yes I have Ed, sorry for no updates.
Had the knee repaired so have not been doing alot this past week.
But the week before I did get some hyw miles on the 67. Got a chance to bed in the pads. Then a few 65mph panic style stops
She hauls down straight and quicker than the drums with no doubt.
I have yet to try a 40/45 stop on a wet road.
On the dry I had no problem with rear wheel lockup but wet conditions will tell the tale.
I am happy with the conversion.
The original manual master seems to be the right size for pedal feel.
I do know I am missing resivor, capacity but I have no problem topping off the master each 5000 miles as the professor Erinburg suggested in his article.
Thanks for asking.

 

[moparedtn]

Yes I have Ed, sorry for no updates.
Had the knee repaired so have not been doing alot this past week.
But the week before I did get some hyw miles on the 67. Got a chance to bed in the pads. Then a few 65mph panic style stops
She hauls down straight and quicker than the drums with no doubt.
I have yet to try a 40/45 stop on a wet road.
On the dry I had no problem with rear wheel lockup but wet conditions will tell the tale.
I am happy with the conversion.
The original manual master seems to be the right size for pedal feel.
I do know I am missing resivor, capacity but I have no problem topping off the master each 5000 miles as the professor Erinburg suggested in his article.
Thanks for asking.

I almost missed your reply; if you don't use the Reply feature at the bottom of my post, then I don't get notified...
Anyways, thanks and glad you've experienced positive things with the setup so far.
The difference in my case, should I decide to do this with Fred, is that he has 11" drums currently - and I have
no interest in re-using the drum hubs for the swap, so I'd be going with the bigger Cordoba 11.75" disc setup.
I want it all to be new, starting on my existing spindles and I'll have to do the master cylinder conversion as
well - I don't like the pedal pressure I have now as it is.

Now, if I could only find Professor Ehrenbergs' article on b-body Scarebird swaps....
I see his c-body one and I see the one for REAR swaps, but not for front end b-bodies.
Thanks again!

 

[1967coronet]

I almost missed your reply; if you don't use the Reply feature at the bottom of my post, then I don't get notified...
Anyways, thanks and glad you've experienced positive things with the setup so far.
The difference in my case, should I decide to do this with Fred, is that he has 11" drums currently - and I have
no interest in re-using the drum hubs for the swap, so I'd be going with the bigger Cordoba 11.75" disc setup.
I want it all to be new, starting on my existing spindles and I'll have to do the master cylinder conversion as
well - I don't like the pedal pressure I have now as it is.

Now, if I could only find Professor Ehrenbergs' article on b-body Scarebird swaps....
I see his c-body one and I see the one for REAR swaps, but not for front end b-bodies.
Thanks again!

Ed here is a allpar link that he did a article for https://www.allpar.com/threads/disc-o-tech-stop-on-a-dime.237038/
Also he has a real good master cyl. Section in the Feb. Mopar Action. Plus the article on the( forward look ) models conversion.
The article that he did that got me to email scarebird was a old mopar action prob 2015- 16 and features a 60s van but he referances B bodies also in that artical.
I'm not doing stairs yet and I'm pretty sure its in the second floor library ( ;
All the B body conversion info. Is also available on scarebirds sight.
Both set ups , one low cost one like I used and the one your thinking of with the Doba rotors.