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Under $300 disc brake conversion.

Ed here is a allpar link that he did a article for https://www.allpar.com/threads/disc-o-tech-stop-on-a-dime.237038/
Also he has a real good master cyl. Section in the Feb. Mopar Action. Plus the article on the( forward look ) models conversion.
The article that he did that got me to email scarebird was a old mopar action prob 2015- 16 and features a 60s van but he referances B bodies also in that artical.
I'm not doing stairs yet and I'm pretty sure its in the second floor library ( ;
All the B body conversion info. Is also available on scarebirds sight.
Both set ups , one low cost one like I used and the one your thinking of with the Doba rotors.
Obviously I'm aware of Rick's "Disc-O-Tech" - I link people to it often and I keep in touch with him several
times a year, after all - but that is not what we're talking about here, at all.
I was under the impression from you that he had done an article on our b-bodies and Scarebird, that's all.

I hope your mending is expedited and as pain-free as possible!
 
Obviously I'm aware of Rick's "Disc-O-Tech" - I link people to it often and I keep in touch with him several
times a year, after all - but that is not what we're talking about here, at all.
I was under the impression from you that he had done an article on our b-bodies and Scarebird, that's all.

I hope your mending is expedited and as pain-free as possible!
Sorry to miss lead you or anyone Ed, I re read this thread from post #1 and did not find any referance by me on a b body specific artical. I did mention the older (2016 ) mopar action artical on Scarebird that just referanced our b body cars in the artical of the van disc swap. I have to get it down here lol, it also had c bodies also along with the cordoba hub/ rotor combo you spoke of for the b body conversion.
I chose the 11" set up using the original 67 hub so I could keep my 14" tires&wheels. That plus the low cost sold me.
I guess the best advice I have for anyone considering this swap is to access Scarebirds sight. They have several kits and info.
Thanks for the well wishes on the old knee, its getting better, I went into the shop for awhile this morning.
Hope your cruise went well this past weekend.
 
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Sorry to miss lead you or anyone Ed, I re read this thread from post #1 and did not find any referance by me on a b body specific artical. I did mention the older (2016 ) mopar action artical on Scarebird that just referanced our b body cars in the artical of the van disc swap. I have to get it down here lol, it also had c bodies also along with the cordoba hub/ rotor combo you spoke of for the b body conversion.
I chose the 11" set up using the original 67 hub so I could keep my 14" tires&wheels. That plus the low cost sold me.
I guess the best advice I have for anyone considering this swap is to access Scarebirds sight. They have several kits and info.
Thanks for the well wishes on the old knee, its getting better, I went into the shop for awhile this morning.
Hope your cruise went well this past weekend.
It was the answer in post #60 and I "read" something into it that wasn't there apparently, so I apologize!

Thanks - yeah, the cruise was about as good as one could hope for, especially for a mashed-together old
bucket of bolts like Fred is. :thumbsup:
There were a couple instances on that trip where brakes damn near became an EMERGENCY though - idiots out
there these days! - that got me back on the whole braking issue again.
The newly rebuilt drums did handle the situation on both instances - but boy, I'd sure like more pedal and less
drama in that department, so I'm throwing in the towel and starting down the disc path.

Glad to hear you're getting up and about a little bit! :thumbsup:
 
Sorry to miss lead you or anyone Ed, I re read this thread from post #1 and did not find any referance by me on a b body specific artical. I did mention the older (2016 ) mopar action artical on Scarebird that just referanced our b body cars in the artical of the van disc swap. I have to get it down here lol, it also had c bodies also along with the cordoba hub/ rotor combo you spoke of for the b body conversion.
I chose the 11" set up using the original 67 hub so I could keep my 14" tires&wheels. That plus the low cost sold me.
I guess the best advice I have for anyone considering this swap is to access Scarebirds sight. They have several kits and info.
Thanks for the well wishes on the old knee, its getting better, I went into the shop for awhile this morning.
Hope your cruise went well this past weekend.


The scarebird brackets you got, why are there 4 holes where the bolts for ball joint/steering arm are? The 4 holes touch each other.
 
The scarebird brackets you got, why are there 4 holes where the bolts for ball joint/steering arm are? The 4 holes touch each other.
They came that way from scarebird, I figure they probably work for 2 different applications.
 
I just wanted to update Dan's thread with a few more pictures. I finally got around to installing my set up. I had the machine shop remove the drums and install the new studs in the hubs. I found that I had to remove the upper control arm snubber to get the bolts lined up. I test fitted everything on the driver's side first and then took it back apart to make sure everything cleared. Everything fit like it should. I still have to bleed the system before I try them out.

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By the way Dan, my rotors cleared with the welded nuts facing outward towards the rotor as in their pictures .
 
I made a bit of a modification today. I was worried that the shoulder of my studs might have been keeping the rotor from seating perfectly. I pulled them off and used my step drill to countersink them a bit. With the wheels back on it looks pretty good.

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I finished up the install today. I bench bled the brakes first. When I went to bleed them I had several leaks. The copper washers that came with the banjo bolts were junk. The others that came with the calipers were twice as thick. I got the brake light switch readjusted to the new pedal height. The pedal feels pretty good. I had some new upper control arm snubbers, so I replaced the old cracked originals.

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I finished up the install today. I bench bled the brakes first. When I went to bleed them I had several leaks. The copper washers that came with the banjo bolts were junk. The others that came with the calipers were twice as thick. I got the brake light switch readjusted to the new pedal height. The pedal feels pretty good. I had some new upper control arm snubbers, so I replaced the old cracked originals.

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Looks good, nice pics.
Glad you got it installed, I've got no complaints on my set,
Now to get my engine back together , lol.just got back home today.
 
I've now had a chance to drive it and the brakes have good pedal feel and not too much effort considering they are manual. The 1 1/32 master worked out.
 
Full disclosure, I did run into one problem. Dan told me he had to reverse the brackets from the picture on the Scarebird instructions, because the welded nuts contacted the rotor. I double checked the clearance on the driver's side and it was fine, so I went ahead and bolted up the passenger side. I heard an intermittent scraping sound coming from the passenger side when driving to the car show this morning, but the brakes worked fine. I figured I might have a warped rotor or hub. This is what I found when I got home. I have a new rotor on order. I think I won't have to reverse the brackets, just shorten the caliper bolts.

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Here is the offending caliper bolt. I had trouble getting a new rotor, and when I checked it was not even close to the same. I checked the original rotor and the gouge was not nearly as bad as it looked. I would say the deepest scratch was perhaps 10 thou. I used emery cloth to take down the sharp edges, and gave it a new cross hatch. I shortened the bolts about 2 threads and everything clears now. Good to go for the Mopar show in St Thomas on Saturday.

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I should add I called 4 different shops to see if I could get the rotor turned, and nobody had a working brake lathe any more.
 
Here is the offending caliper bolt. I had trouble getting a new rotor, and when I checked it was not even close to the same. I checked the original rotor and the gouge was not nearly as bad as it looked. I would say the deepest scratch was perhaps 10 thou. I used emery cloth to take down the sharp edges, and gave it a new cross hatch. I shortened the bolts about 2 threads and everything clears now. Good to go for the Mopar show in St Thomas on Saturday.

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Just out of curiosity I checked that bolt length. I have not sold Mopar kits, I sell many Ford and Chevy ones. I do use that caliper in quite a few of my kits. I bought a set of those brackets just in case my 63 drum brakes take a dump. Anyway, I grabbed a bolt/sleeve and it's length is perfect. So you some how got an out of spec bolt, no biggy you solved it.

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Just out of curiosity I checked that bolt length. I have not sold Mopar kits, I sell many Ford and Chevy ones. I do use that caliper in quite a few of my kits. I bought a set of those brackets just in case my 63 drum brakes take a dump. Anyway, I grabbed a bolt/sleeve and it's length is perfect. So you some how got an out of spec bolt, no biggy you solved it.

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Interesting! I ordered brand new calipers, and they came with the bolts. As I said I checked the drivers side, and even though it stuck out a couple of threads, it still cleared. All bolts were the same length, and have now been shortened.

Everything is back together for the weekend, but I have finally found someone local who can turn the rotor. As you can see, the bolt didn't contact the same depth all the way around so I am thinking the rotor is a bit warped. Turning it should cure both issues at once.
 
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I drove the car 125 miles round trip today to a Mopar show. The brakes got a workout several times and worked flawlessly. I am very happy with the conversion. I did find a local shop with a brake lathe so I am taking the rotor in to be turned to get rid of the scoring and true it up. I also have to get the alignment and wheel balance checked.

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I got the rotor turned today. He didn't have to take much off to clean it up. I did notice that the depth of the small ridge left near the hub was a bit thicker on one edge than the other, so it was warped a bit as well.

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