Universal Harness or Car Specific Harness?

[1970_Charger]

good read... I'm gonna face the same dilemma with my 70 Charger where there is no wiring left whatsoever after the body work and paint... I was considering buying repro harnesses separate for the engine, dash, rear and front lights but then figured that it would probably be more cost effective if I just went with a universal kit from say, Classic Industries - Highway Series or Power Plus or Express Harness - all these come with extra circuits to accommodate upgrades in the engine compartment. The only problem I'm gonna face is how to wire headlight door motor... but that's something I can tackle at a later time.

 

[67 coronet]

i just wire it all myself.lucky,here in vegas,we have a great supplier for electrical terminals and wire.takes a bit longer,but I know every connection and size of wire works perfect.most of the stuff I build is resto mod or full race.makes it a whole lot easyer to put in high amp alts,elec fans,and all the other aftermarket stuff.

 

[747mopar]

All the extra stuff you guys do is hardly worth the extra$200.00 you are saving, with hopes of it working. No schematics, having to trace wires and there labeled different. Mad electrical modification for the amp meter doesn't take more than an hour.

Haha, not so true at all!!! Not only did it come with a schematic that I noted as I went but now if theirs an issue I don't need a diagram because I know exactly what does what and where it is. If you've never installed one you wouldn't understand but when I say wires are labeled they are literally printed on the wire the full entire length of the wire so there's never a need to trace anything.

Hopes of it working??????? I had 2 issues with my wiring, a faulty ignition switch and a faulty brake light switch thanks to the Chinese. Finishing my 2nd year of cruising with O issues with much better lighting, stereo, ignition, etc.

Mad modifications on the Ammeters??? Anybody serious about their wiring would just throw the ammeter in the trash and switch to a voltmeter.

I don't know anybody who rewires their whole car to save $200.00? Maybe to improve it?

 

[texas69bee]

One thing I recommend you do, if you use a universal kit, and a "bitch" I have "in general" about them.

While the documentation varies, (you can download some of them and look) they non of them give you a "complete" wire by wire diagram. I recommend that before you start to install it, lay it out on a bench and do a wire-by-wire continuity check and build your own diagram. My car had "part of" a used Painless kit, and then when it was down for paint, I ran into an new / open box EZ kit. They use the same fuse panel!!!. But I was going to re-purose some of the wires, and actually re-worked some of the buss in the fuse panel.

One "bitch" I have is that it's "fine" to color and number the wires, but they insist on having alpa-labels such as "headlights" and "power windows." Well I don't HAVE power windows, and want to use that circuit for something else. This is irritating, to say the least.

I don't know anybody who rewires their whole car to save $200.00?

The OP

I plan to re-wire my 73 Roadrunner this winter, and wondering if I should purchase a universal harness or a harness that is specific for my car? The difference between the two is anywhere from $200-$300 regardless of what company I go with

747mopar... glad it worked out for ya.

 

[747mopar]

Here's the pictures I promised. I started with wiring the dash out of the car then installed the dash and went from there. Fuse box is in the glove compartment, battery in the trunk and everything is fairly hidden but easily accessible.



This the view directly under the wiper motor, starter relay, harness boot and a Mega Fuse instead of a fusible link. Not entirely hidden but I like things easy to work on so at least they're out of direct sight.





I just drilled an extra hole for the wiper harness to eliminate any extra wires hanging around.



This is a view looking down into the front of the driver side fender where the flexible conduit ends for the headlight and turn signal harness.



That picture really stinks but this is the fuse box in the glove box.



Just a 1/4" thick piece of copper I used for a central grounding strip and then grounded to the block threw the firewall... I hate goofy electrical problems.



This is where I started the wiring..... it's allot easier to do it on the floor than in the car!

 

[texas69bee]

Looks good!

 

[HT413]

Oh my.

 

[747mopar]

Looks good!

Universal.

 

[1970_Charger]

Looks neat! That's exactly what I'm looking to do. I did buy a wiring harness from ClassicIndustries - Highway Series 15 circuit - should be plenty.

 

[jmopar20]

That looks amazing. I'm definitely keeping those pics close by while I put mine together. Thanks for all the advice, feel free everyone to post pics of your work to this thread also, and I'll try to do the same as I move along

 

[Car Nut]

Here's the pictures I promised. I started with wiring the dash out of the car then installed the dash and went from there. Fuse box is in the glove compartment, battery in the trunk and everything is fairly hidden but easily accessible.

View attachment 287300

Beautiful!!

 

[Derwud]

i dug up this old thread looking for American Autowire info. They are making a B body resto mod harness.. I will have to wait for that.

 

[ckessel]

Slick!

 

[Glenwood]

very nice indeed!

 

[747mopar]

There is one area of these kits that I just don't get, they say power seats, electric fuel pump, electric fans, A/C, etc but when you start adding it up and look at the fuse box feed????? Maybe my instructions weren't clear enough but using the designated circuits to actually power all the additions quickly loads the single feed. I used the designated circuits only for the signal source that operates relays which do all the work via a batt supplied power source.

 

[Mike67]

This is the kit that's in mine from EZ Wire 18 fuse - 21 circuit for $185 http://www.ezwiring.com/store/viewitem.php?productid=4

I used the 21 circuit ez on my wife's build and was very happy with it...The leads were long enough to allow me relocating the block behind the console for easy access. I'm to old and fat to be laying across the sill plate, a leg over one seat hollering for someone to help pull me out from under the steering wheel looking for a blown fuse or checking for power...just my $.02

 

[Bruzilla]

I just rewired the front of my 74 Roadrunner, and I fabricated my own harness using all new wire, labels, and connectors. I don't like relying on wire colors because they fade, get painted over, dirty, greasy, etc., and putting labels on works much better. Plus you're not having to spend a fortune on special colored wires and not on getting the best grade of wire.

Just go one wire at a time and you'll do fine.

 

[747mopar]

I just rewired the front of my 74 Roadrunner, and I fabricated my own harness using all new wire, labels, and connectors. I don't like relying on wire colors because they fade, get painted over, dirty, greasy, etc., and putting labels on works much better. Plus you're not having to spend a fortune on special colored wires and not on getting the best grade of wire.

Just go one wire at a time and you'll do fine.

That's great to hear, where do you go for your wire because the auto parts store wire that I've seen is far inferior to what came in my American Autowire kit. Also I only paid $180 which included terminals and the fuse box..... hard to beat that?

 

[Derwud]

I have a local place that sells quality wire and connectors.. It is an adult Hobby Lobby..

 

[Glenwood]

I was planning to make my own harness for the engine bay, but buying spools of wire and bulk amounts of terminals didn't seem worth it for one car. I just received a harness from Mega parts which cost $125US+. Looks good and is set up for the BB with ECU. Shipping was pretty quick at less than 3 weeks I believe.
I'll check out the wiring thoroughly with my meter before installing though.