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DP78

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Hello and wanted to do some little mods to my stock 383, like intake and cam. Just wondering what intake to go with that will still allow clearence for 1970 air grabber hood. Also what is a good cam that I can run with stock valve train, that still gives enough vacuum for air grabber system. I am running a 670 holley street avenger on stock intake and was wondering if I should go up in carb size as well if I change intake. I read that 383s like fuel.
 
474 MP Camshaft. Edelbrock Performer (maybe Performer RPM if clearance allows). 750CFM carburetor would be ideal, but I couldn't see your current carburetor being too inadequate for your combination.

Welcome to the board if your new!
 
Yep new to this and mopars. Thanks for the advice I will see about those mods
 
Stock valve train won't like a lot of spring pressure, and if you keep the stock springs you won't be putting a lot of cam in. I'd go with the purple shaft .455" lift or any similar grind. This cam is on a 112 lobe separation and maintains great vacuum. It also works great with the factory intake. I have this can in my 440 and it runs high 12's with the factory iron intake so I don't see the intake as your main limiting factor for a street car. For best performance you need to optimize your gearing, exhaust and carb.
 
Installed a Comp 268 Extreme in a stock bottom 383, and it did a nice job of power increase through 5500 rpm. Slightly noisy valve train vs stock cam, good idle quality, and low-end plus top-end performance. 780/3310-1 and running 3:55 gears in auto.

A friend's MP 280/474 is strong with KB 4.280 pistons and 750. Both cars have 1-7/8 w/ Edelbrock DP, and 2" headers w/ RPM intake respectively.
 
I am pretty new to all of this should I be looking at hydrualic or mechanical cams. Whats is one better for than the other?
 
Hydraulic flat tappet is what you are looking for. You can make great performance under 6,000RPM with a hydraulic flat tappet camshaft. With a mechanical camshaft, you will need to run adjustable rocker arms and specialty push rods, along with your selected lifters and camshaft. With a hydraulic flat tappet camshaft, you can possibly still retain all your stock valve train and have a much more affordable setup and perform very well considering your combination. Very basic, but browse the forum and you can find many topics with your question in mind. Its a well beaten path..
 
For a stock short block build up you won't need a solid lifter cam. Stay w/ a hyd. lift cam, no valvetrain maintanance required, and as others have stated, unless you want to change out your valve springs, you won't want anything that requires a lot of seat pressure. If you want a high lift cam your best bet is to purchase a cam and kit w/ lifters and corrrect valve springs. You will need to have them checked for proper seat pressure at the correct installed height. Do some homework here, the wrong cam for your combo can turn your car into a gas sucking slug! Check your cyl. pressure and call a cam manufactor tech line for some guidance, then post what you have found out for some real world feedback.
 
Oh yeah, and 670 CFM is more than enough.
 
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