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Valve cover gaskets?

fullmetaljacket

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Out of all the new stuff out there, which valve cover gaskets do you guys recommend for good sealing?
Asking for a friend who doesn't think mine are that good.
Mine are the Moroso Blue silicon types.
 
What valve covers? If I'm putting on the heavy black felpro ones, I guarantee a no leak result.
 
20241007_163126.jpg
20241007_163148.jpg

Here's the last set I put in on a stock cover. They are a tight fit, just need some massaging . Where I'm pointing to is the tight area
 
I use fel-pro cork valve cover gasket VS-13379 with no sealer and no leaks. The rubber ones are too hard, they warp covers and leak.

Sealing these things are not as simple as they seem.
After 50+ years the valve covers are not straight anymore. They need to be tapped out with a hammer on engine side and a block of wood supporting from the topside.

Then they need to be really clean. Clean them again. Rag comes still out dirty doesn't it! Clean it again. Heads and valve cover. Heads are cast and not machined, the heads take longer to clean than the sheetmetal valve covers. And reach in there between the valvesprigs and the RH magnum manifold, yes it is tight but just do it!

Now use fel-pro cork gaskets VS-13379. $9.91 on rockauto. Snug them down and wait. Don't start the engine for 2 days. Every 12 hours or whenever snug up the bolts, they will be a touch loose. Then run it and get it hot, let it cool and next day snug the bolts again. And try this again after more driving and cooling cycles. Now after it sits all winter, check the bolts and snug up if needed.

You can't just put "the best" gasket on a warped valve cover, on dirty surfaces, tighten the bolts once and be done. It will leak
 
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I had been stuck with cork gaskets, cause of four bolt covers. But I found a couple set of Superformance 4-bolt gaskets, and I'm gonna try them next time.
 
On a tin cover I RTV the gasket to the cover. Theyre seldom flat so the RTV seals that area. The heads themselves are good enough to seal. Cork or a cork with elastomer will work. Eventually the get dry and shrink. Then change them out.
Doug
 
I've used the Moroso Perm-align ones too with good success. But everyone has their preferences.
 
I’ve always had trouble sealing them, until the last time I replaced them this year.

My Valve covers are older Moroso stamped steel that have been on and off 100 times so they aren’t the straightest. I also have wire looms attached here and there.

This time I used the Felpro 1610 from Summit. I put a generous amount of Super grey silicon between the gasket and cover, put them on the head and then just snugged the nuts down.
Left them overnight and then tightened the nuts up a little more with all the looms and other stuff attached. No leaks!

They have even been off and on a couple times since and still no leaks.

I think this is the method DVW has posted.
 
Got mine from rockauto. I bought the 2nd cheapest ones they seal great since march.
 
I tried a set of these on Indy valve covers. Sealed perfectly. Covers have been off for valve lash check several times and re-used and all good.
From 440 source.
IMG_5142.jpeg
 
Moroso Perm-Align MOR-93055, got from Summit Racing
rubberised with a steel liner, old OE style Fel-Pro cork 'sucks ***'
opinions vary vastly
I've used them (Moroso's) on many different combos,
(the ones for the Magnum Engines too on my Truck/99 Dakota SLT 4x4)
& ones on my RR with Mopar Performance as cast valve covers,
I use studs, not bolts & barrel nuts
it's never leaked
I take them off at least once a year, to do a valve check,
hydr. roller, Crane 1.6:1 Rollers, on Edelbrock RPMs/ported
but I did glue them/contact cement to the valve covers
I have lil' to no blowby in the engine, so not much if any pressure
I even run a pcv... It is Calif after all...

my street/strip car, mostly just street of late
68 RR #34 A-12 6bbl pan w-phenolic spacers ds.JPG
 
I paint the mating surface on the head as well as the bottom surface of the gasket with hi-tack gasket cement then mate the gasket to the head aligning the holes as I go. I don't use the locating tabs on the gaskets. I simply cut them off. I've found that this method has worked well for me for over 50 years and I never had a gasket relocate itself on the head surface.

The gasket cement on one side, only, lets me take the valve covers off to adjust the valves (stage 3 rockers on my 440, adjustable pushrods on my early hemi, and stock slant six adjustable rockers on the Dart). The gaskets don't slip and I prefer cork/neoprene combo gaskets.
 
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