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Valve cover leaks

RobP

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After successfully getting my rear main seal leak free (FINALLY!), I'm focusing on the valve covers. I installed studs an I'm using spreaders. Although the studs were a bit of a PIA (a few of the holes had to really be cleaned up) they make it so much easier to align the gasket. I bought the Moroso 93055 after hearing many positive reviews. I spent 4 hours cleaning off the black RTV off my valve covers that my mechanic used last time on a set of Fel-Pros (?). I tried the Moroso's dry and they immediately leaked on the driver's side firewall in the same place they were leaking before. I'm using a new pair of AMD repro valve covers with a groove around the surface area. I then found info on their website that states:

Moroso Valve Covers Gaskets are not intended to be used on stamped or cast covers with a gasket retention groove. These covers may not allow the gasket to seal properly and will cause leaks.

I know people have used these gaskets dry successfully, but must be using valve covers with a flat surface? The only flat surface valve covers I see are the Mopar Performance and don't seem to be readily available and have mixed reviews. FYI, I have stock heads.
Has anyone used these on oem covers? I have a set of Cometic gaskets on the way to try as well.
Thoughts?

20200517_151006.jpg
 
RTV is used for this reason , cured a lot of leaks
in areas
 
check out Right Stuff black gasket maker. Really good sealant. Iuse it in place of oil pan gaskets
 
After swapping the cam in my 383 (original heads), I bolted down the Mopar Performance valve covers. I think I used Felpro rubberized gaskets. It leaked on the passengers side at the fire wall. Snugged it down and it still leaked. Snugged it down again and it still leaked. Snugged it down again and broke the cover flange. After getting a new cover, I should say "covers", because you can't just buy just one, I went the RTV route. Leak stopped and I now know why it had RTV on it when I removed them.
 
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Those are garbage. I used them years ago and they split when tightening down. Use Felpro 1612 and Ultra Black.
 
I just went thru the same battle. Threw the moroso ones in the trash. Went with cork gaskets and used some weather strip adhesive to hold them on the valve covers. So far no leaks.
 
Just yesterday I had one of those blue Moroso's split and leak oil down my new headers.
 
I used the Mopar performance covers and the leaked in one corner. Couldn’t get it to stop. Finally discovered they were very mildly warped there. Knowing that I finally got them stop leaked but it was a pia. Ok now.
 
After successfully getting my rear main seal leak free (FINALLY!), I'm focusing on the valve covers. I installed studs an I'm using spreaders. Although the studs were a bit of a PIA (a few of the holes had to really be cleaned up) they make it so much easier to align the gasket. I bought the Moroso 93055 after hearing many positive reviews. I spent 4 hours cleaning off the black RTV off my valve covers that my mechanic used last time on a set of Fel-Pros (?). I tried the Moroso's dry and they immediately leaked on the driver's side firewall in the same place they were leaking before. I'm using a new pair of AMD repro valve covers with a groove around the surface area. I then found info on their website that states:

Moroso Valve Covers Gaskets are not intended to be used on stamped or cast covers with a gasket retention groove. These covers may not allow the gasket to seal properly and will cause leaks.

I know people have used these gaskets dry successfully, but must be using valve covers with a flat surface? The only flat surface valve covers I see are the Mopar Performance and don't seem to be readily available and have mixed reviews. FYI, I have stock heads.
Has anyone used these on oem covers? I have a set of Cometic gaskets on the way to try as well.
Thoughts?

View attachment 952018


I ‘ve got those on my 440 with cast MOPAR performance valve covers and are working fine on my engine with no RTV or spreaders. No leaks at all. These are on Edelbrock aluminum heads, btw.
 
Indy has polished cast covers without their name for $500. Summit sells the same covers for $109. They are chinese, but they have the flat flanges like the mopar covers used to. I bought a pair from summit when they had the as-cast covers too (not a fan of shiny stuff on my engines). Thay required a little work on the intake side bolt holes to work with studs, but i like em. I did block sand the flanges to make sure they were flat.
 
check out Right Stuff black gasket maker. Really good sealant. Iuse it in place of oil pan gaskets
Do you apply on the cylinder head - or are you marrying the gasket to the valve cover first with this product, then placing gasket/valve cover into place?
 
I was trying to avoid any sealant after spending approximately 5 hours cleaning off the old gaskets and black RTV, but it may come to that.
FYI, my passenger valve cover isn't leaking (yet) after letting the car idle for a few sessions, but no driving. I have the M/E-wagner adjustable PCV valve on the way as well as set of Fel-pro 1612's and a set of Cometic C5983's gaskets.
I have 2 sets of valve covers (my old original and my current AMD repros) so I'm going to do some experimenting. I do have some copper RTV.
My biggest concern is that after I ordered the Moroso Perm Align gaskets, I came across their statement that said they are not designed for valve covers with a ridge, just for ones with a flat surface. I'm hoping one of the other two works dry, but will go the RTV route if not.
Thanks for all of the input so far and I'll keep this updated.
 
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Those blue Moroso gaskets work great where they are intended to be used; that is, aluminum heads and cast fabbed valve covers, both with thick, flat flanges. Used on factory heads, or over tightened, they will definitely split.
My best sealing on factory heads with stock steel valve covers came from using a "THIN" coat of Permatex Ultra Black TRV on both sides of a FelPro cork gasket and snugging up the bolts (or nuts if using studs) with a nut driver. Let them sit overnight. After the first heat/cooling cycle I tightened them a "little" tighter, maybe a 1/4 turn... This all assumes that the gasket sealing ridge on the heads is defect free (no casting bumps or divots) and that the covers are flat with no 'pull down' at the bolt holes. Good luck to all...
 
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I was trying to avoid any sealant after spending approximately 5 hours cleaning off the old gaskets and black RTV, but it may come to that.
Mine had the orange RTV on it and that is what I used to reseal it. It took a bit of scraping, but certainly not a 5 hr. job. :30 - :45 min. as best as I can recall.
 
Mine had the orange RTV on it and that is what I used to reseal it. It took a bit of scraping, but certainly not a 5 hr. job. :30 - :45 min. as best as I can recall.

This is what was left on the valve covers once I peeled off the gaskets.
20200517_103041.jpg


I used brake cleaner to help soften up the residue, but it was a tedious job. It would have been much easier without the ridge around bottom. Whatever sealant was used was a b*tch to get off.
 
Try Permatex #2 its a non hardening sealer. It stays tacky, no worries of chunks of silicone falling into motor. I too have tried Moroso gaskets...sometimes lucky sometimes not. I've used a little #2 on the Felpro 1612 gaskets and no more leaks.
 
I started using Indian head sometime around 1972 or so. And ever since.
 
Those blue gaskets seal good when they fit the heads and valve covers. With the stock covers, I think the gasket needs trimed at the upper corners.
Some aftermarket heads also create valve cover gasket problems, usually around the outer rocker stands.
On the TrickFlow 240s, I had to trim the inner corner around the rocker stands when using the normal cork fel-pro gasket. Also, don't over tighten the valve cover bolts. The stock torque spec is only 40 in/lbs, and it seems torque over 100-120 in/lbs can cause the cork gaskets to leak.
 
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