Hey Guys, Visited my 1969 RR at the body shop today. It just got sand blasted, there's a little rust and bondo but other than that he said it was really straight! He said he was surprised how nice it was! Here are some pics...
Visited my 1969 RR at the body shop today
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Is there a reason you did not remove some of the glass ? Looks like a complete body and paint going on it ?
Yes, I made a mistake and got new glass before I decided to paint it. I didn't know he was going to sand blast it. It cracked, but he said don't worry about it he will take care of it. Great guy to work with!
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Looks like a darn good start for sure. Floors, rails and the usual look ok as well?
moparnation74
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Did he "warp" any of the exterior sheetmetal....From the pics it looks as pretty high pressure or very abrasive material was used....
The body looks as it was in good shape. Why didn't he just chem strip the exterior metal and just spot blast the rust areas?
The body looks as it was in good shape. Why didn't he just chem strip the exterior metal and just spot blast the rust areas?
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And, all of that abrasive and dust got in all of the window mechanisms! Take it all out and
vacuum out everything in the quarters and doors. I noticed filler on the drivers side quarter
just behind the door. That's a really tricky spot because it transitions from the door to the
flare over the rear wheel. It's actually concave there. Look at the passenger side. Looks
nice! Florida car! WooHoo!
vacuum out everything in the quarters and doors. I noticed filler on the drivers side quarter
just behind the door. That's a really tricky spot because it transitions from the door to the
flare over the rear wheel. It's actually concave there. Look at the passenger side. Looks
nice! Florida car! WooHoo!
Yes, everything looks great! I got lucky on this one...
Doesn't look like anything was warped, at least I hope not. I actually think it was media blasted, there were still some light paint on some parts. He said it would be best to have it done this way because he saw some rust around the back window and wanted to really see everything. I trust what he says, he is a good guy and I have seen his work, painted a buddy's car.
Yeah, he was telling some of that. Believe it or not the car actually came from Washington state! I bought it and shipped it back here, that's a whole other story!
Beesogreen
Member
I hope it wasn't sand blasted....
Nope.
Dan64
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Just had my 64 Polara "Dustless blasted" ,that's where they use water , 40/70 recycled glass and a product called 102 Hold tight to stop the metal from flash rusting. People says it's a very safe way to blast and can't warp the panels because the water keeps things cool ,not true as I found out. The 102 Hold tight is costly so the clown that did mine was cheap with it. I saw a very faint gold cast on the first piece he did ( hood followed by my deck lid) I told him to stop and go get more 102 which caused a 2 hour delay. Within that 2 hours those two pieces had completely flashed over and needed to be done again. This is where the warping comes in. The existing paint seems to act as a slip joint between the glass material and the metal , without it the glass was "grabbing" the small micro "dimples" in the metal previously blasted. The water didn't do crap. The warping could have been a lot worse but those two piece cost me about 4 days of my life i'll never get back. Thank goodness the rest of the car turned out great . Looks like your off to a good start. Stay on top of them ,don't let it turn into "Body shop jail".
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Good to know! I thought the water kept the abrasive from developing heat too. So, after all is done,
what do you do to the surface before epoxy primer goes on?
what do you do to the surface before epoxy primer goes on?
Dan64
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I didn't do anything to the underside of fenders or hood and deck lid,just sprayed. About 12 hours later i flipped everything over on the work stands and hit all the exterior surfaces with 120 grit before i epoxy primed. Really no good way to wipe down blasted metal and you really don't need to if you are priming right away. I did the underside of everything first because i knew i wanted to hit the exterior with 120 and the undersides have all of the hard to get into little areas so there is no easy way to sand anyway. I figured if i got a little flash rust i could knock it off of the smooth exterior panels but would be a nightmare if it happened to the hard to sand underside so i did the underside first.
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How To Use Holdtight
For wet abrasive blasting, Peter recommends mixing water to HoldTight at a 100:1 ratio for both blast cycle and wash down. “In a highly corrosive environment, you way want to increase to 75:1 or 50:1, as insurance.”
After dry blasting, pressure wash with water and HoldTight at a 50:1 ratio.
I looked up the PDF from the company that makes it. Sounds pretty trick!
It can be had for $190.00/5Gallons.
For wet abrasive blasting, Peter recommends mixing water to HoldTight at a 100:1 ratio for both blast cycle and wash down. “In a highly corrosive environment, you way want to increase to 75:1 or 50:1, as insurance.”
After dry blasting, pressure wash with water and HoldTight at a 50:1 ratio.
I looked up the PDF from the company that makes it. Sounds pretty trick!
It can be had for $190.00/5Gallons.
dsd1967
Well-Known Member
I always hit bare metal with metal prep. It’s like a mild Acid etch that will remove flash rust, clear the metal pores for better primer adhesion and leave the metal with a slight “bluing” protective layer that prevents flash rust for long enough to get the panel in primer. You dilute it with water and apply it on with steel wool or scotch bright pads and rinse off with warm water and dry with a towel immediately.
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