Voltage Limiter location and disassembly

[Maus]

I've searching this forum for a while now, and it seems a lot of people have problems with their fuel and temperature gauges not working due to a faulty voltage limiter.
But I can't find a treat on how to get to the limiter or how to take it out of the instrument panel.
I have a original workshop manual, and it says to to take out the entire instrument cluster and also lower the steering colum.
Isn't there another way of replacing the voltage limiter?

1974 Dodge Coronet Custom Sedan

 

[Rick@Laysons]

FIRST THING TO DO.....dis-connect the battery cable.

The voltage limiter is attached to the printed circut board on the back of the instrument cluster housing.

You do have to remove the cluster housing to get to it.

 

[Arlo Price]

Have you checked the fuel sending unit ground strap where the sending unit connects to a short rubber fuel line that connects to the steel fuel line that runs along the chassis? For the temp gauge, the issue is usually the temperature sending unit or the wiring coming off of it.

 

[Arlo Price]

Here's some pix

 

[Jerry Hall]

Voltage limiter circled

 

[Maus]

Okay, that's clear, thanks you all!
Might as well also change all the light bulbs and speedometer cable.
I'll let you guys know how things turn out.

 

[Jerry Hall]

RTE has an electronic version voltage limiter that will plug right in.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

A fail on ground at cluster can cause a burnt gauges issue still with an operative voltage limiter.

There is also a chance a damaged voltage limiter can get burnt the gauges with points stuck closed. The limiter is a open-close pulse signal through points mounted on bimetallic strips.

Ground on cluster is chassis but reinforced with a wire thought the multipin conector, using a dash frame provision.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

FIRST THING TO DO.....dis-connect the battery cable.

The voltage limiter is attached to the printed circut board on the back of the instrument cluster housing.

You do have to remove the cluster housing to get to it.

Actually disconect the battery is not mandatory, since the limiter on standard cluster is sourced from Ign1 circuit. So as far the ign switch is OFF, there is no power getting the cluster except at ammeter.

And… the limiter can be replaceable with cluster in place, just tricky and depending on hands size. Same about the bulbs.

 

[Rick@Laysons]

It may very well NOT be mandatory but......

It most certainly CANNOT hurt, is very simple to do, and may very well save you a short(or worse!!!...) if a bare wire comes in contact with something it shouldn't.

Been there....done that.....

 

[Maus]

I will disconnect the battery for sure, since the previous owner decided that it was handy to install a starter button below the steering column which you engage very easily when working under the dash. This button will have to go of course.

 

[RemCharger]

Hope it's more fun than the 77 monaco I did. Let us know

 

[Maus]

Finally some good weather today, so I took the cluster assembly out and found the voltage limiter and a lot of things that makes me wonder what people are doing to their cars...
Anyway, the new limiter looks a bit different than the old one, but I guess this doesn't matter.
That conductor (is that the right word?) wasn't even connected.
I will also install a new speedometer cable and change all the light bulbs and a few sockets.

 

[Bird 426]

Just curious, you said that a lot of people have problems with their fuel/temp gauges, but you didn't say that you had a problem, did or do you? When I replaced the circuit boards in one of my cars, I installed a solid state IVR. My fuel and temp gauges were very lazy when the ignition was turned on. I removed the solid state IVR and reinstalled my old one, the gauges then returned to normal.

 

[Jerry Hall]

The right word is capacitor or some say condenser. It needs to be connected regardless of which voltage limiter you use.

 

[Maus]

Just curious, you said that a lot of people have problems with their fuel/temp gauges, but you didn't say that you had a problem, did or do you? When I replaced the circuit boards in one of my cars, I installed a solid state IVR. My fuel and temp gauges were very lazy when the ignition was turned on. I removed the solid state IVR and reinstalled my old one, the gauges then returned to normal.

Sorry, yes, my gauges aren't working either. Along with all the warning lights.
Ehm, what is an IVR?

 

[Jerry Hall]

Instrument voltage regulator. It uses the cars 12V and converts it to 5V for your gauges.

 

[Bird 426]

Instrument voltage regulator, that's the square one. The round condenser/capacitor is for static in the AM radio. All good answers here. Sounds like your wiring may be a mess from your statement.