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Voltage Regulator upgrade?

uk-maxie

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Hi all,

Reading thru an old-ish (Oct '08) Mopar Action, I noticed a bit in an article about charging systems, where (for 69 & older) they recommend changing the original voltage regulator for an AutoZone item to cure the flickering lights & ammeter problem. Well, we have have it on our cars!

The good thing is (they say), you can reuse the original cover so it still looks original. If you're worried about that kind of stuff.

See below...

voltagereg.jpg


Anyone on here tried this? Does it help? Any problems?

Thanks

Rob
 
Does Autozone still sell these?
 
They are fantastic. I have tem on my 65 Dodge Coronet. Works great. Not flickering headlights and no alternator discharging at idle.
 
Thanks SSR, that's good to know.

My brother reminded me that we have a new regulator with our FBO ignition kit, that we are fitting to the rebuilt engine. I dont know whether that is a standard item (it looks stock) or whether it has updated internals, like this Autozone item.

But as it's new, we'll fit & use the FBO unit and keep the VR706 up our sleeve for when we get the flickering headlights & ammeter.
 
Did that on my 68 Chrysler after the article came out...

th_BargeonaBudget101.jpg

th_BargeonaBudget102.jpg

th_BargeonaBudget103.jpg

th_BargeonaBudget104.jpg
 
Just saw this item on another forum...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mopa...tZVintageQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

It says "This regulator should not be used on cars that have an alternator that puts out over 65 amps".

Dunno if the one above has the same limitations?

We've gone for a Bouchillon alternator that is rated at 50A @ idle & 75A @ 2500rpm.
I presume this 'ready made' version would be no good for use with this Bouchillon alternator?
 
rock auto also has them , dont use the blue mopar performance one unless your running a full on race aplication. THey are too hot and I have burned up several coils and wiring harnesses . Stick with the auto zone type solid state units they are great .
 
rock auto also has them , dont use the blue mopar performance one unless your running a full on race aplication. THey are too hot and I have burned up several coils and wiring harnesses . Stick with the auto zone type solid state units they are great .


yep, i burned up a harness too in my hemi belvedere with the blue mp voltage regulator and i was only racing with it.
 
Changed to the electronic regulator in 06 and it has been great since.
 
yep, i burned up a harness too in my hemi belvedere with the blue mp voltage regulator and i was only racing with it.
I only run these not and they are great , no more crazy extreme needle bouncing of the gauge
 

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This may be a stupid question but how does this voltage regulator differ from the one mounted to the back side of the instrument cluster? My gauges were going crazy toward the end of last summer, so I replaced the one on the back of the cluster with a solid state unit, but does it make sense to have 2?

I'm new to this so excuse the ignorance. I do have a regulator mounted to the firewall just as in the pictures above too.
 
Both of them work in the same way, just in different areas...
 
This may be a stupid question but how does this voltage regulator differ from the one mounted to the back side of the instrument cluster? My gauges were going crazy toward the end of last summer, so I replaced the one on the back of the cluster with a solid state unit, but does it make sense to have 2?

I'm new to this so excuse the ignorance. I do have a regulator mounted to the firewall just as in the pictures above too.

The reason for the two voltage regulators is simple.
Both work the same but for two separate systems.
The voltage limiter behind your dash reduces the 12 volt source down to 5 volts to operate the gauges.When malfunctioning,the guage needles get pegged,or simply not work at all.
The voltage regulator under the hood keeps the voltage output of the alternator in check so it will not fry up the electrical system and not drain/overcharge the battery.
An example of a failed voltage regulator is when the headlights pop when getting 18 volts put to tthem when driving at highway speeds and the battery boils over..
 
Thanks for the info, I've already replaced the one behind the dash hoping it would fix my gauge issue but won't know for sure until I get the interior back together...got a few more months before that happens.
 
I just changed from a mopar blue box because it was over charging and went with the autozone voltage regulator and it works great.
 
Glad I came across this post. Just last night this was happening. This was something I was going to research today. I don't drive my 65 very much at night, but when I have, going down the road everything is fine, but when you get caught at a light, the light's all get dim and the ammeter shows it's not charging. I'm going out and getting one of these today.
Daryl (cwmoss)
 
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