........before I posted my own thread on the subject of "flickering" and I came access this one. I am going to update the 1969 Bee tonight with this unit and post the results.....
Voltage Regulator upgrade?
- Thread starter uk-maxie
- Start date
.....worked perfectly
A383Wing
Well-Known Member
you guys that are running the electronic regulators might wanna put an inline fuse where the ignition power wire connects to regulator terminal. My electronic regulator shorted out years ago, the cardboard on the back burned through and burned up the power feed wire from ignition switch to regulator..had to have car towed home....took me all weekend to perform wire replacement surgery on that 66 Charger
I used a 7.5a spade fuse and installed it between the spade connector on the regulator.....
I used a 7.5a spade fuse and installed it between the spade connector on the regulator.....
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Nifty idea sir.....May do just that
A383Wing
Well-Known Member
I did it to all my cars...there is no fuse protection on that circuit at all...if it shorts out, the wire inside the dash harness also fries, I was lucky enough that I didn't leave the key on too long....
I was talking to Mark @ MAD Electrical about this recently. He told me adding the fuse is very important if your car is running a dual field alternator and that he has seen many, many electrical fires because of this. When I told him I was using a single field alt., he told me not to bother with the fuse as the problem only happens on the dual field application. I wish I would have remembered why that is so, but he gets so long winded at times that I may have set the phone down for a bit lol.
....great intel sir. This thread is a must have for anyone who has gone the electronic route. Wells VR706 is great part to have.
A383Wing
Well-Known Member
well, obviously Mark knows nothing about how the charging system works and which wires have power or not....you guys do what you feel is best for your cars....mine almost caught fire because of single field regulator short, it will not happen now to my cars because of added fuse protection
Sorry if these questions seem dumb. But I’m new to the mopar scene as my wife and I inherited my FIL’s 69 coronet 500 stock 318. So I know this is old but reading this I’m curious now. I was going to wire up a stock voltage regulator from a 71 up. Is this style the same as the blue mopar that you guys are saying don’t use. I have a two field 65a alternator and I’ve upgraded to the pertronix ignitor 3. I was king to use the regulator I have bc I have read that the most at idle I’m seeing is bc of my stock 69 regulator and at idle it’s not allow enough power to the coil to fire correctly.
the image below is the regulator I’m getting ready to wire in.
Thoughts please.
the image below is the regulator I’m getting ready to wire in.
Thoughts please.
Demonic
Well-Known Member
Hi Dan B,
You could start a new topic, sometimes these "resurrection" threads get confused, as some miss the dates in the postings. No worries...
Welcome. The "Blue" regulator is a constant-output type, it is set to 14 V, which gives a better spark but shortens bulb and battery life. Your pic is a 71 and later style, usually goes with the dual-field alternator. It won't work unless you swap to the dual-field alternator and revise the wiring accordingly.
A little searching and.... https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...alternator-connections.113992/#post-910465506
You could start a new topic, sometimes these "resurrection" threads get confused, as some miss the dates in the postings. No worries...
Welcome. The "Blue" regulator is a constant-output type, it is set to 14 V, which gives a better spark but shortens bulb and battery life. Your pic is a 71 and later style, usually goes with the dual-field alternator. It won't work unless you swap to the dual-field alternator and revise the wiring accordingly.
A little searching and.... https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...alternator-connections.113992/#post-910465506
threewood
Well-Known Member
If your Coronet is still wired for 69 VR, go with the solid state 69 VR (black box).
I'm using this exact one in a 69 GTX with a Pertronix III and in a 62 Belvedere with Pertronix II. Works great. Granted, both are still single wire alternator.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/CHRYSLER-D...D8AAOSwCWNcON7L:sc:USPSFirstClass!85364!US!-1
I'm using this exact one in a 69 GTX with a Pertronix III and in a 62 Belvedere with Pertronix II. Works great. Granted, both are still single wire alternator.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/CHRYSLER-D...D8AAOSwCWNcON7L:sc:USPSFirstClass!85364!US!-1
what a stupid statement by MAD. The blue wire carries the same signal to regulator on single and dual fields system. Just that on electronic regulator the regulator feeds negative and not positive, so the power going to electronic regulator doesn't get any load to feed the alternator, and is just to activate the regulation system, because ign switch is the straight source to alt field for positive. On mech regulator, the blue wire gets loads through the regulator and up to alt via the green wire, while alt get the constant field being the ground with the brush on chassis
I have a dual field alternator. I was just making sure that the 71 or later regulator isn’t that same as the blue regulator that people are saying don’t use.
there are two blue regulators, one for for single field systems, replacing the stock mech regulator, and one for the electronic systems with dual field
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