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want to do away with stock starter relay......

SUPERSTOCKRACER

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but i want to keep my stock wiring for key, head lights,brakes,dash lights but....i weant to go to a ford ST85 continuous duty starter solenoid inside of the car and eliminate all the wires in my engine bay.
can anyone lead me in the right direction.
My main reason is that i want to install the 2 engine bay remote starter buttons to adjust my valves in my 65 belvedere and i cant bump over my motor sucessfully with the relay or the crank mandrel.
I REALLY NEED HELP GETTING THIS DONE. PLEASE HELP!!! :BangHead::drowning:
 
i relocated all my wires on my hemi. wasnt too hard. you can just wire your remote switches right to the stock relay if you want to save some time but if you wanna clean up the engine compartment wiring than simply take all the power wires off the threaded lug of the stock relay and solder and them together and heat shrink. than find were you want to mount relay inside car ( mines under the glove box) and run a 12 gauge power wire to either your old relay or the ford one ( both work the same the fords just bigger) than run wire from output lug on relay to small lug on starter and find starter signal wire from ignition switch and run it to trigger lug on relay, than either hook up ground lug to a good ground or if you need neutral safty run the ground from relay to neutral safty switch. to hook up remote switches just get momentary 2 wire switch and run one wire to power lug of relay and the other to trigger lug and walla be able to crank it over from were ever you mount the switch and as long as your ingition is off it will crank with remotes and not fire. if that seems confusing i can make you a schematic and send it. on a personal note i ran all my wires under the front fenders and just brought them through were they needed to come out. really made for a nice clean look. can send you a pic if you want
good luck fellow hemi owner
 
oh ya one more thing .... if you mount your remote coming throught your firewall right behind the carb you and reach it from both sides and only need one switch
 
I was thinking of putting a remote button in the car also. There have been times I could have used it.
70 Hemi, I would like to see your wireing diagram.
But as far as adjusting the valves I just turn the motor over by hand. It's easier and more accurate.
 
I was thinking of putting a remote button in the car also. There have been times I could have used it.
70 Hemi, I would like to see your wireing diagram.
But as far as adjusting the valves I just turn the motor over by hand. It's easier and more accurate.

CANT turn it over by hand. i have a aluminum mandrel on my crank.thats why i need 2 remote switches to bump motor over.
 
i relocated all my wires on my hemi. wasnt too hard. you can just wire your remote switches right to the stock relay if you want to save some time but if you wanna clean up the engine compartment wiring than simply take all the power wires off the threaded lug of the stock relay and solder and them together and heat shrink. than find were you want to mount relay inside car ( mines under the glove box) and run a 12 gauge power wire to either your old relay or the ford one ( both work the same the fords just bigger) than run wire from output lug on relay to small lug on starter and find starter signal wire from ignition switch and run it to trigger lug on relay, than either hook up ground lug to a good ground or if you need neutral safty run the ground from relay to neutral safty switch. to hook up remote switches just get momentary 2 wire switch and run one wire to power lug of relay and the other to trigger lug and walla be able to crank it over from were ever you mount the switch and as long as your ingition is off it will crank with remotes and not fire. if that seems confusing i can make you a schematic and send it. on a personal note i ran all my wires under the front fenders and just brought them through were they needed to come out. really made for a nice clean look. can send you a pic if you want
good luck fellow hemi owner

thanks, i really would like that schematic if you can email me one to [email protected] or post it up on here would be great. thanks for spending time writing this out for me.
 
attached a pic of schematic i drew up for you. hope it helps. if you use a ford syle relay make sure you get the 4 wire not the 3 (the 3 wire ones ground through the mount) if you need a neutral saftey. will hook up the same battery + and wire to starter go on the 2 big side lugs and wire from ignition and wire to neutral safty go on 2 small front lugs
 

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Just a cool trick I learned years ago is to get a male and female plug at Radio Shack for something along the lines of a guitar amp. Mount the female plug to the firewall and the male plug to one of those cheap trigger remotes you can get at the parts store. You just wire the female plug to the solenoid and battery terminal on the starter solenoid. When you want to adjust valves, plug the cable from the remote into the firewall socket and bump away.

I don't have anything with hidden wires and the need to adjust valves anymore, otherwise I would post up some pics.
 
attached a pic of schematic i drew up for you. hope it helps. if you use a ford syle relay make sure you get the 4 wire not the 3 (the 3 wire ones ground through the mount) if you need a neutral saftey. will hook up the same battery + and wire to starter go on the 2 big side lugs and wire from ignition and wire to neutral safty go on 2 small front lugs

thanks for the schematic. it seems as though 65 starter relays are patterned differently than 70 relays.
i had to go to the stud and the spade right above it. the spade you show is for nuetral safety switch on mine. i got it all wired up and it works great. 2 remote starter buttons 1 on each corner. it came out great. thx for your help.
ill post pictures to show my 65 relay.
this will work for now until i wire up my napa echlin st85 ford style solenoid.
 
Just a cool trick I learned years ago is to get a male and female plug at Radio Shack for something along the lines of a guitar amp. Mount the female plug to the firewall and the male plug to one of those cheap trigger remotes you can get at the parts store. You just wire the female plug to the solenoid and battery terminal on the starter solenoid. When you want to adjust valves, plug the cable from the remote into the firewall socket and bump away.

I don't have anything with hidden wires and the need to adjust valves anymore, otherwise I would post up some pics.


REV thanks, funny thing is i have one of those hand held starters. i could have done it that way. too late, i remembered i had one after i installed the 2 remote starter buttons. :happy5:
 
HERES where i put my remote starter buttons so i can adjust my valves.
 

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So did you get the wiring figured out, or do you still want a diagram?
I could draw you up something in AutoCad and post it in PDF form.
Take a look at "Clean Safe Wiring" in electrical thread. You could just follow that diag and swap out the toggle switch for a momentary Push Button. just send the power to the small post on your starter.
 
So did you get the wiring figured out, or do you still want a diagram?
I could draw you up something in AutoCad and post it in PDF form.
Take a look at "Clean Safe Wiring" in electrical thread. You could just follow that diag and swap out the toggle switch for a momentary Push Button. just send the power to the small post on your starter.

I did a temporary setup through my stock relay.
it works but going to remove all wiring from engine bay and rewire through napa echlin relay solenoid st 85 and send everything through the solenoid nice and neat.
only thing i want to keep is my key on/off and headlights/taillights/turn signal
 

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I am not sure this will help, but Flaming River had a kit to use the Ford style solenoid with trunk mounted batteries. They had a nice schematic on the web site I think.
Norman
 
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