• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Want to go Lokar. What do I need?

I can see that for the one kit, but looking at the Lokar systems, they use a bracket that connects to the front of the carb and uses two small springs to replace the one long spring and stock spring bracket, so two smaller springs replace the one big one, but there is no spring on the kickdown lever like there is with the Bouchillon set up. There are also no springs on the lever with any of the other systems I've looked at.

I see what you mean. I'm not sure why it's necessary to have a spring down on the transmission with that kit. Interesting.
 
I really like the Bouchillion kickdown, although it is tight to install if you have headers. I have a spring on my carb as well as on the kickdown trans lever, ehich is lighter.
20170604_190433.jpg
 
Not wanting to necro-post here but this is exactly about the same thing I am doing. Question though. How does the kickdown work? Should the lever on the trans be all the way back with the throttle at zero, or is it all the way forward at zero throttle?
 
Not wanting to necro-post here but this is exactly about the same thing I am doing. Question though. How does the kickdown work? Should the lever on the trans be all the way back with the throttle at zero, or is it all the way forward at zero throttle?
There are a couple things you need to know before trying to set the cable for proper operation.
1- Don't cut the cable for a Lokar until you have the ferrule locked in the proper position. You don't have to worry about this with the Bouchilon cable.
2- You actually don't start increasing the fluid pressure with the arm at the tranny starting from it's rest position. There is a bit of slop internally and if you move the arm lightly by hand first you will feel when the arm actually engages the valve stem internally. From that point on is when fluid pressure starts. Take this into consideration regardless of who's cable you use.
 
There are a couple things you need to know before trying to set the cable for proper operation.
1- Don't cut the cable for a Lokar until you have the ferrule locked in the proper position. You don't have to worry about this with the Bouchilon cable.
2- You actually don't start increasing the fluid pressure with the arm at the tranny starting from it's rest position. There is a bit of slop internally and if you move the arm lightly by hand first you will feel when the arm actually engages the valve stem internally. From that point on is when fluid pressure starts. Take this into consideration regardless of who's cable you use.
Ok.. I pulled the cable until the point the arm was just about to move, but there is a bit more in there you are saying? I will get under there this week and move it a bit to see where the pressure starts. Thanks for the info.
 
I made the initial setting IAW Lokar instructions, and the kickdown was pretty much engaged all the time. I added some slack to where the ferrule is just ahead of the stop when the throttle is full forward, and the throttle moves back about 1/8" before it starts pulling on the cable, and that seems to work fine.
 
The kickdown should be fully engaged at wide open throttle. I adjusted mine so that all the slack in the cable is taken up and the lever on the trans is fully engaged when at full throttle.

Check out this video for some clarification:
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top