Washers to shim castle nuts???

[hunt2elk]

What is your guys opinion on using washers under the castle nut of an upper ball joint so the cotter pin fits in a opening and does some good? I believe these are ProForged and they need a solid 5/16" of washers because the hole is drilled to far down.

 

[Beekeeper]

If they fit the taper correctly I wouldn’t have an issue with shimming them. I would be inclined to find a taller nut if possible and use less spacers

 

[conv67bdere]

An engineering friend of mine told me that 1 or 2 washers is OK. . . But going to 3 or more is not recommended.

Fabricating a single spacer would be a much better option if it's required.

Let me know if you need a couple made for your situation Joel.

 

[Bighouse]

Maybe some hardened washers

 

[hunt2elk]

An engineering friend of mine told me that 1 or 2 washers is OK. . . But going to 3 or more is not recommended.

Fabricating a single spacer would be a much better option if it's required.

Let me know if you need a couple made for your situation Joel.

Thanks for the offer Larry, but I want to get this back togther by the weeknd. Wish I had a lathe in my garage like you.....

 

[hunt2elk]

Maybe some hardened washers

I did find some hardened metric washers that would work. I would still need at least 3 of them though.

 

[Beekeeper]

I did find some hardened metric washers that would work. I would still need at least 3 of them though.

Not sure what the critical difference would be with 3 vs 2 spacers? I would run what you have.

 

[Tony Tee]

Drill another hole for the cotter pin. I bet it drills real easy with the substandard steel that is being used nowadays.

 

[Frank Mopar]

Send it.

 

[Bighouse]

I did find some hardened metric washers that would work. I would still need at least 3 of them though.

Maybe some grade 8 washers? I’d be more comfortable with those at the least while I’m zooming down the highway. It probably doesn’t make a difference either way, it’s just a mental relief for me!

 

[Daves69]

I did find some hardened metric washers that would work. I would still need at least 3 of them though.

run 'em

 

[Darter6]

I wouldn’t have an issue with shimming them.

Maybe some grade 8 washers?

With the quality of parts lately this is a must anymore. I have done this and never had a problem.ProForged on my car right now.

 

[R413]

I would like hardened washers there. 3 soft ones aren’t that great.

measure height and diameter. Get a hardened spacer made and put them on later.

the cotter pin keeps the nut from backing off. So what about double nutting with 2 flat nuts and locktite on them?

 

[Beekeeper]

I would like hardened washers there. 3 soft ones aren’t that great.

measure height and diameter. Get a hardened spacer made and put them on later.

the cotter pin keeps the nut from backing off. So what about double nutting with 2 flat nuts and locktite on them?

the new cars and trucks use a nyloc nut without a cotter pin. why not just do what 413 suggested and use a nyloc on top of the castle nut and use one washer and call it a day.

 

[ckessel]

What's happening is the manufactures are consolidating inventory and parts. They can use a stud for another application thereby saving money. The problem is the overall length of the stud can be wrong which is why you get washers now. I found out about this some years ago when I was rebuilding the Stang2 front end on a 37 Chevy which used our ball joints. I put the new ones in but at full droop, the upper arm was interfering with the spindle. WTF? I pulled it apart and found that the joints I took out were an inch taller in the area between the ball and where the taper starts. "Stock replacement joints". The customer had supplied his own parts, got them from Speedway. I got one in from the local NAPA for comparison. It was 3/4" longer than the "new" Speedway ones. We ended up getting another from NAPA but we had to get 3 more before we got 1 pair that were the same OAL. Went to the SEMA show later that year and I talked to the guy from Proforged about that. He was reluctant to say anything but finally fessed up about the consolidating of inventory which proved my suspicions. Usually if you want a taller joint, you go to Howe, QA1 or some other round round suppliers to get them. Not so anymore. You need to do a comparison of the parts now when you rebuild the front end so all your joints are the same lengths to make sure you don't have geometry/alignment issues on your ride. Here is a shot of a joint so you can see the areas in question.

 

[hunt2elk]

Found some nice thick 9/16" grade 8 washers today. 2 of them together measure 3/8" and let the cotter pin do its job. Guess I'm going to run them.

 

[ckessel]

After I signed out, I realized there was more info to type in. Anyway...the tapered portion of the stud sometimes changes too in the od of the big end which allows it to extend through the spindle, or the length of the threaded portion, making it necessary for the washers to put under the nut so the pins can go in. Sometimes you get this on the steering stuff too as some have found out.