Water Pump ****

[super-bee_ski]

Great thread!
Great info

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

Does the fact that the cast iron impeller sits deeper in the hole when mounted to the pump housing make it flow less water? (see side by side photos above)

It is not really weird. The cast blade is curved the steel is straight. The cast blade has more clearance on the pump casing, the steel blades have less. Plus why would you want to add weigh to motor when not necessary for increased performance? G

 

[rakort]

Does the fact that the cast iron impeller sits deeper in the hole when mounted to the pump housing make it flow less water? (see side by side photos above)

Reviving an old thread as I rebuild my water pump and ponder the best path forward. So I'm an engineer in a paper mill and we have hundreds if not thousands of centrifugal pumps we maintain. One of the most critical settings for proper pump performance is the impeller clearance. So what that means here is impeller to housing clearance or the "depth" of the impeller.

 

[Mike67]

I've liked at several articles about this and being in Texas where we typically have 2 seasons ( hot and hotter) I decided to go with a FlowKooler...impeller design and numbers look legit...

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

I've liked at several articles about this and being in Texas where we typically have 2 seasons ( hot and hotter) I decided to go with a FlowKooler...impeller design and numbers look legit...

View attachment 549419

Curious to know how it went?

 

[Mike67]

Curious to know how it went?

Motor is still in parts, so I can't really say...

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

I've been successfully running the 6 blade Milodon HV pump for over 5500 miles now and it's been working great. With my 22" Griffin exact fit aluminum 2 row 1-1/4" tube rad the engine temp was between 190-210F. Now with the 26" Griffin exact fit aluminum rad and shroud the engine temp is 185F with outside temp being 75F. I still need to test it on a 100 degree day.

 

[RJRENTON]

Not so. The diameter of the fan belt pulley determines the speed at which the shaft turns, not the impeller diameter. If your rotary vane pump is from 440 Source, the back of the impeller is VERY close to the inside of the water pump housing and requires a 'thick' gasket to provide clearance (extra cost). Also, if you use their stainless steel water pump bolts and have an aluminum housing make sure you use anti seize if you ever want to remove them. I am curious as to why the Milodon pump impeller assembly is so much shorter. I have the Mancini water pump housing and the Milodon pump on my car and they work fine. I remember checking the impeller to housing clearance and it was about .050-.060".

AMEN....
I use a FLOW COOLER PUMP .... from the FlowKooler site. www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com
1679 1958-1978 BIG BLOCK MOPAR CHRYSLER DODGE PLYMOUTH HEMI WATER PUMP
$119.00
Anyone with a big block Mopar knows they can run hot so Flowkooler designed a high flow water pump with a CNC machined billet impeller with 16 vanes, integrated shrouding and a reduced casting-to-impeller vane clearance. It achieves greater flow rates, higher head pressure and a more efficient flow. The impeller color is due to Type II Class II military grade surface coating which protects against corrosive fluids.

FlowKooler introduced the first hi flow pumps and continues to improve impeller design. Why is increased flow so important to cooling a hot HEMI engine? Because it has been proven time and time again that reducing the cycle time between the heat source and the heat sink creates more opportunities to shed heat and drop engine temperatures.
From 0-3,300 RPM…Nothing Beats a FlowKooler!

And note, the RPM RANGE is pump speed not the engine speed. In my instance, I use a Hemi sheave (Mopar part # 2946716) on the water pump and the standard crankshaft sheave. The Hemi sheave is approximately 1.75" SMALLER pitch diameter so it spins the water pump approximately 250 RPM faster than the standard sheave. I also use the Mopar "2806070" torque drive fan clutch. And without getting into a dissertation on heat transfer velocity and gallons/minute calculations and the associated arguments/opinions, both founded and unfounded, I'll just say, this is what works for me. Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

I got a flowkooler now as well seems like it works well with the G-03 coolant stays pretty cool, anyone need a 440source pump let me know you can get mine on the cheap.

 

[beanhead]

I prefer the Flow-Kooler too. The first one I purchased developed a leak out of the weep hole after a month, but Summit made good and the replacement unit has worked well. I later installed a high-flow thermostat and temps got even cooler and more consistent, a plus as my car sees lots of street time in hot weather.

 

[Charger Fan]

I didn't see the FlowKooler pump tested. Does anybody know how there design stacks up against the Milodon HV. Milodon is less money. The FlowKooler is about $50 more. Is it worth it?

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

I didn't see the FlowKooler pump tested. Does anybody know how there design stacks up against the Milodon HV. Milodon is less money. The FlowKooler is about $50 more. Is it worth it?

I had been using the Milodon HV pump and it works well. I switched to the Flowkooler a few years later after an extended 30 min idle in a traffic jam made my engine coolant temp climb from 185F to 215F. The Flowkooler's higher flow lowered my idle temp by almost 10 degrees F. At speed they've both performed about the same for my mild big block build.