Weight transfer

[70rcode]

I would've thought his DA around 1000 ft. He's probably making around 500 crank hp considering his worn clutch, weight & kinda under cammed motor.....

 

[Paul_G]

I would've thought his DA around 1000 ft. He's probably making around 500 crank hp considering his worn clutch, weight & kinda under cammed motor.....

The engine was originally built for a different car. It had 3.91 gears and overdrive with lockup. The cam was spec'd on the small side to be happy and cruise around on the street at 2000 rpm. This engine never went in that car.

 

[Cranky]

The engine was originally built for a different car. It had 3.91 gears and overdrive with lockup. The cam was spec'd on the small side to be happy and cruise around on the street at 2000 rpm. This engine never went in that car.

Have a 440 like that. Built for a truck but now it's going into a car. Hemi grind cam, closed chambered heads with a mild port job with moly rings and 10.3-1 compression. Not really built for a truck was it lol

 

[BigLime]

It depends on a lot of variables, SO, all you can do is try & see what happens.

It depends on a lot of variables, SO, all you can do is try & see what happens

Nice Wheelie!!!
Have you stiffened the frame? I can’t tell from the pic if you have a roll cage or frame stiffeners or none.
I was curious because I am going to rebuild my motor with some serious HP and was worried about frame twist.

 

[gooser]

if the car is set up right 112 mph your et should be 11.8 to 12.0

 

[Cranky]

Nice Wheelie!!!
Have you stiffened the frame? I can’t tell from the pic if you have a roll cage or frame stiffeners or none.
I was curious because I am going to rebuild my motor with some serious HP and was worried about frame twist.

If I remember right, Charlie has done a good amount of work to stiffen up the body. How much hp do you plan on adding and what are you doing about traction? Even with just 400 hp you should at least ad in frame ties especially if you have good bite and putting the car on a diet will also help reduce body twist.

 

[Paul_G]

Frame/body stiffening is something I would like to do to the 73. I have not found any off the shelf components for a 73 B Body.

 

[Cranky]

Frame/body stiffening is something I would like to do to the 73. I have not found any off the shelf components for a 73 B Body.

I've done frame ties/body stiffening way before off the shell stuff was available. It just takes more fab work....

 

[padam]

Frame/body stiffening is something I would like to do to the 73. I have not found any off the shelf components for a 73 B Body.

I did mine last winter. No one makes off the shelf pieces. Mine are a little different than what I’ve seen anybody else do but I think they came out pretty good.
I used 2x2x1/8 box tube, went through the floor.
Edit;
Us car tool might make some, but I wanted something different.

 

[BigLime]

I was thinking about 550 RWHP. 440 with a Torqstorm Supercharger at about 6-10 PSI.
Street use only so I will never hookup. Shouldn't be too much of a load on the drivetrain. A833 with 8 3/4, 3:90 gears.

Regarding the stiffening, I found this kit below. Anyone use it before?
66-70 Dodge Plymouth B Body Total Chassis Stiffening Pack

(USCT as mentioned above.)
Look at the second pic on the site. Shows where all the parts are welded in.

 

[Budnicks]

there's people 'in the camp'
that would say you need more free front travel (up), low isn't as bad
you need like 3.5"-5" upwards, so it can transfer the weight
disconnecting the front sway bar, will let it come up as you accelerate

unless it's in the weeds & lil' to no shock travel
&/or bigger really stiff Torsion bars
if that's the case, it'll be tough to get the weight transfer you truly need

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a bit of a different animal, but for an example
my stepdads old 64 GTO H/stock
(basically stockish) '365hp' 389 4bbl, Muncie 4 speed, 4.11:1, GM 12 bolt-possi,
Borge Warner Clutch, steel wheels/hubcaps removed, stock-ish type stuff
ran mid 12s & I want to say 110-ish mph, with his 6'1" 250# ***
at Fremont back in the day (sea level track)
a solid lifter Norris cam/lifters like .477 gross lift @ 290* dur.
'that was allowed'
rear seat out, passenger side seat out, still fully carpeted & sound deadening
radio, door panels, full glass & regulators etc.
he actually left the spare in the back
claimed it was for 'weight over the tires'
Running on shitty hard, M&Hs Pie-crust bias ply stiff walled slicks 28"-29" x 9"
from the late 60's early 70's
(crap tires compared to today's compounds)
very little was done to it,
at the track carb tuning, metering rod changes, accel pump change
(old Carter Competition AFB 750cfm)
& a bit more ignition timing like 38*s total old Poncho dual point,
& a hot coil IIRC
opened the 1-3/4" long tube headers/added with like 3" x 12" extensions
(he drove the car a lot, it wasn't a racecar only)
he ran 'no front sway bar' when at the track,
the rear sway bar was left in place,
helping keep the body 'torque roll' to a min.
grant you, it's not 4,000#s either, more like 3,200#s

I know it's a different type of suspension, & brand
coil springs front & rear coils & trailing arm design
but the principles are the same,
'need to free up the front suspension & let the rear drop/plant'
(at that power level)
but it made it's best runs,
with worn-out old oil-filled Gabriel Shocks on the front
& the front end 'free to rise at launch' like 3,200-3,500 IIRC,
it never really settled down/leveled off, until about 1/2 track
it more flattened out, it still rode a bit high in the front thru the traps
best it ever planted the tire too
he later put limiter straps on it, to not let it raise too much,
& hit the bumpstops

he put some I don't remember the brand of
90/10 or 75/25 (?) racing shocks upfront
& it just barely lifted, like 2.5"-3", it never ever would hook right
he went back to the worn-out Gabriels, back to the front-end lift
& riding high front, squatting in the rear

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more than one way to skin a cat/make a good pass, for what you got
a lil' ballast in the 'far rear' may help some too

good luck